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Tooth Fairy Amigurumi Pattern

Tooth Fairy Amigurumi Pattern
4.3β˜… Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
2.4K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

🧸

Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

About This Tooth Fairy Amigurumi Pattern

This Tooth Fairy amigurumi pattern walks you through creating a sweet tooth-shaped fairy with wings, skirt, gloves and a tiny crossbody satchel. The design uses DK and Aran weight organic cotton and includes step-by-step photos for tricky parts like splitting the roots and attaching the wings. You will enjoy making a keepsake that is both decorative and playful.

Tooth Fairy Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

The pattern is written in US terms and worked in continuous rounds where noted. Clear notes and helpful tips are included so you can follow along easily and customize colors to suit your style.

Why You'll Love This Tooth Fairy Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it transforms simple crochet shapes into a whimsical character that feels magical. I enjoy designing pieces that use up small yarn scraps and these little leaves and wings are perfect for that. The construction is clever β€” the two cups joined together make a charming tooth silhouette that stacks up quickly. I also love that the pattern teaches techniques like BLO shaping and joining pieces seamlessly, which are skills I use again and again. Making this Tooth Fairy always feels rewarding because the final details β€” eyelashes, a tiny satchel and layered leaves β€” bring so much personality.

Tooth Fairy Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Tooth Fairy Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Tooth Fairy Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Tooth Fairy Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how easy it is to customize this Tooth Fairy pattern by changing yarn colorsβ€”try pastels for a soft nursery look or bright jewel tones for a playful vibe.

You can make the tooth bigger or smaller simply by changing yarn weight and hook size; bulky yarn will create a chunkier fairy while fingering weight creates a tiny keepsake.

I often replace safety eyes with embroidered eyes for a fully baby-safe toy, which also gives a different expression and charm to the face.

Swap the leaf flower for a felt flower or tiny crocheted rose if you prefer different texturesβ€”sew it on at round 16 just like the original flower.

For a festive seasonal version, stitch small bead sequins into the skirt hem or add a tiny crocheted crown for a royal tooth fairy look.

If you want posable wings, try stitching a thin wire inside the wing seam before closing and cover it with yarn tail ends to secure the wire.

I sometimes make matching mini tooth fairies as a set by using different colored skirts and mixing leaf color combinations to create a cohesive collection.

Try adding a tiny loop or ribbon at the top to convert the tooth into an ornament for a nursery mobile or holiday tree.

Experiment with different embroidery styles for eyelashes and mouth to give each fairy its own personalityβ€”longer lashes give a sleepy look while a tiny smile makes it cheeky.

Use leftover yarn scraps for the small leaves and accents so each finished toy is eco-friendly and uniquely colorful.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

βœ— Skipping stitch markers when splitting for the roots can make the gap alignment confusing; place markers to mark the 6 front and 6 back stitches before slip stitching to close the gap. βœ— Fastening off the first cup before joining can leave you with extra ends and difficulty joining; fasten off only the first cup and keep the second attached so you can join and continue in the same round. βœ— Working with loose tension will create holes where stuffing shows through; crochet tightly and consider using a hook one size smaller than the yarn label recommends for amigurumi. βœ— Changing color without securing tails can cause a messy finish and loose stitches; use the described method of removing your hook and pulling through from back to front, then yarn over with the new color to secure the color join and weave ends in.

Tooth Fairy Amigurumi Pattern

Make a whimsical Tooth Fairy amigurumi with detailed, photo-supported instructions that guide you through each piece from the tooth body to wings, skirt, leaves and accessories. You will enjoy the combination of simple crochet construction and pretty finishing details that make this a special handmade gift. Perfect for using up DK yarn scraps and creating a charming keepsake for little ones.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Tooth Fairy Amigurumi Pattern

β€” Main Fabric

  • 01
    Rico Essentials Organic Cotton Aran (100% Organic Cotton, Weight 4/Aran) - WHITE x2 balls for the tooth
  • 02
    Rico Essentials Organic Cotton DK (100% Organic Cotton, Weight 3/DK) - NOUGAT for crossbody pouch (amount: small scrap), LILAC for gloves & skirt waistband (small amount), MUSTARD for wings & skirt hem (small amount), RED for small leaves (small amount)
  • 03
    Stylecraft Naturals Organic Cotton DK (100% Organic Cotton, Weight 3/DK) - ARTICHOKE for wings, skirt & leaves (small amount)

β€” Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size 4.00 mm
  • 02
    Crochet hook size 3.00 mm
  • 03
    Safety eyes 12 mm
  • 04
    Black embroidery thread (or black DK weight yarn split in half - about 4 strands)
  • 05
    Tapestry needle
  • 06
    Stitch markers
  • 07
    Scissors
  • 08
    Stuffing
  • 09
    Optional: wooden buttons for crossbody bag tie

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

β€” Tooth :

Info :

The tooth is worked in continuous rounds from the top down - do not join after each round. You will make two "cups" which will be joined to create the top bumps. Then, you will crochet around them and continuously until you split for the roots which are also crocheted in continuous rounds. Use size 4.00mm hook for the tooth

Item Name (CUPS - make 2) :

Rnd 1: st 6 in a magic circle [6]

Round 2 :

inc in each st around [12]

Round 3 :

(sc, inc) x6 [18]

Round 4 :

(sc 2, inc) x6 [24]

Round 5 :

(sc 3, inc) x6 [30]

Round 6 :

(sc 4, inc) x6 [36]

Round 7 :

(sc 5, inc) x6 [42]

Round 8 :

(sc 6, inc) x6 [48] PHOTO 01

Round 9-13 :

sc around [48] PHOTO 02

Info :

Fasten off the first cup. Do not fasten off the second one as you will continue with your working yarn to join the cups and continue on with the rest of the tooth.

Info :

JOIN CUPS: Hold the two cups side by side and join by making 6 slip stitches through Rnd 13 of both pieces to join PHOTO 03 & 04

Info :

Begin straight away where you left off with your last sl st...

Round 14-22 :

sc around [84]

Round 23 :

(sc 12, dec) x6 [78]

Round 24 :

sc around [78]

Round 25 :

(sc 11, dec) x6 [72]

Round 26-27 :

sc around [72]

Round 28 :

(sc 10, dec) x6 [66]

Round 29-30 :

sc around [66]

Round 31 :

(sc 9, dec) x6 [60]

Round 32-34 :

sc around [60] PHOTO 05

Info :

Insert safety eyes between rounds 24 and 25, spaced by 20 stitches. Using a tapestry needle, embroider on eyelashes. Stuff tooth. PHOTO 06

β€” Roots :

Info :

The roots are worked in continuous rounds - do not join after each round

Info :

Split your work for the roots: Each root will have 24 st, and then there will be 12 stitches (6 from front and 6 from back) that will be crocheted closed for the gap between the roots. Use stitch markers to mark these stitches as described. PHOTO 07

Info :

Give or take a few stitches to be sure your hook is positioned in the stitch just before what's about to become the gap between the roots. Hold the two sides of the tooth closed - 6 stitches against 6 stitches and slip stitch the two sides together (12 stitches - 6 from front and 6 from back) PHOTO 08

Info :

Then continue straight away into round 35 without fastening.

Round 35-46 :

sc in each st around [24] STUFF

Info :

TIPS: A) I suggest placing a stitch marker on your first st of Rnd 35 so you can easily find it as you come back around. PHOTO 09. B) the start of rnd 36 will connect the front to the back, closing the rounds for the first root.

Round 47 :

(sc 2, dec) x6 [18]

Round 48-49 :

sc around [18]

Round 50 :

(sc, dec) x6 [12]

Round 51-52 :

sc around [12] STUFF / PHOTO 10 & 11

Round 53 :

dec around [6]

Info :

Snip leaving a long tail and pull through final two loops. Using a tapestry needle and the yarn tail, weave through the front loops of the final 6 stitches and pull tightly to close. Bring to the inside and back out a side wall. Snip cleanly with the surface. PHOTO 12

Info :

Rejoin yarn on the other side of the 6-slip-stitch-gap, and repeat Rounds 35-53 for second root. Fasten off and close as directed for first root above. PHOTO 13

β€” Skirt :

Info :

The skirt is worked in continuous rounds - do not join after each round. Use size 3.00mm hook for the skirt

Info :

Start with the purple yarn.

Round 1 :

fsc 70 [70] PHOTO 14

Round 2 :

sc around [70]

Info :

Switch to green yarn.

Round 3 :

make 3 dc in each st around [210] PHOTO 15

Round 4 :

dc around [210] PHOTO 16

Info :

Switch to gold yarn.

Round 5 :

sc around [210] PHOTO 17

Info :

Fasten off and weave in end. Put skirt on tooth. Using a tapestry needle and a VERY long strand of purple yarn, weave the tapestry needle from front to back in between the first row (purple) of the skirt, several times to secure the skirt to the tooth. PHOTO 18

β€” Crossbody Satchel :

Info :

Use the brown yarn & 3.00mm hook

Round 1 :

st 6 hdc in a magic circle [6]

Round 2 :

hdc inc around [12]

Round 3 :

(hdc, hdc inc) x6 [18]

Round 4-7 :

hdc around [18]

Round 8 :

dc around [18] PHOTO 19

Info :

Fasten off and weave in end.

Info :

Make drawstring: chain 150. Knot off ends. Weave in and out of round 8 (dc round) and cinch to close. If you're using beads for the ends of the drawstring, put those on now. PHOTO 20

β€” Arms :

Info :

The arms are worked in continuous rounds - do not join after each round. Use size 3.00mm crochet hook. You will start with the purple yarn for the gloves and switch to the tooth color to complete the arms

Info :

Start with purple yarn.

Round 1 :

st 6 in a magic circle [6]

Round 2 :

inc in each st around [12]

Round 3-5 :

sc around [12]

Round 6 :

4-DcBo in next st, sc in next 11 st [12]

Round 7-14 :

sc around [12]

Round 15 :

sl st around [12]

Info :

Refer to PHOTOS 21-25 below to complete the glove and color change as follows: Remove your hook from the loop and insert it under the next st from back to front. Snatch your loop and pull it to the back, then switch to white by yarning over with white and pulling it through the purple loop.

Info :

Pull on the ends to tighten. After you make a few stitches of Rnd 16, tie those purple and white ends together and stuff them inside. For round 16, you will work in the BLO of the purple from Rnd 14, found just behind the Rnd 15 of slip stitches.

Round 16 :

BLO sc around [12] PHOTO 26

Round 17-23 :

sc around [12]

Info :

Sl st to fasten off and pull through loop, leaving a long tail for sewing on. Stuff very lightly and sew arms to sides of body over round 25, spaced about 7 stitches away from the eye. PHOTOS 27-29

β€” Wings: Large - make 2 :

Info :

The wings are made by crocheting turning rows of half double crochet in the BACK LOOP ONLY. You will work into a magic circle - do not close the magic circle until all the rows are complete as you will need to be making slip stitches into the magic circle (see photos 30-34 for reference). Chain 1 and turn at the end of every row. Use the gold yarn

Info :

Leaving a long starting tail, begin by making a magic circle and slip knot onto your hook - do not close the magic circle. PHOTO 30 Then, chain 23.

Row 1 :

hdc in the 2nd back bump ch from hk and in each back bump ch thereafter [22] PHOTO 31

Row 2 :

BLO hdc across, sl st into the magic circle, ch 1, turn [22] PHOTO 32

Row 3 :

BLO hdc in next 19 st, leave final 3 st unworked [19]

Row 4 :

repeat row 2 [19]

Row 5 :

BLO hdc in next 16 st, leave final 3 st unworked [16]

Row 6 :

repeat row 2 [16]

Row 7 :

BLO hdc in next 13 st, leave final 3 st unworked [13]

Row 8 :

repeat row 2 [13]

Row 9 :

BLO hdc in next 10 st, leave final 3 st unworked [10] PHOTO 33

Info :

Fasten off and weave in end. Pull magic circle tightly to close and cinch the wing. PHOTO 34

β€” Wings: Small - make 2 :

Info :

Refer to the notes and photos for "wings: large" as the small wings are made using the same method, just using shorter rows. Use the light green yarn

Info :

Leaving a long starting tail, begin by making a magic circle and slip knot onto your hook - do not close the magic circle. Then, chain 20.

Row 1 :

hdc in 2nd back bump ch from hk and in each back bump ch thereafter [19]

Row 2 :

BLO hdc across, sl st into the magic circle, ch 1, turn [19]

Row 3 :

BLO hdc in next 16 st, leave final 3 st unworked [16]

Row 4 :

repeat row 2 [16]

Row 5 :

BLO hdc in next 13 st, leave final 3 st unworked [13]

Row 6 :

repeat row 2 [13]

Row 7 :

BLO hdc in next 10 st, leave final 3 st unworked [10]

Info :

Fasten off and weave in end. Pull magic circle tightly to close.

β€” Assemble and Attach the Wings :

Info :

1. Arrange the wings with the large on top and the small beneath - PHOTO 35

Info :

2. Lay the small wings over top the large wings so that they have one row overlapping and are angled as shown in the photo - PHOTO 36 & 37

Info :

3. Using the tail end of the small wing, sew the wings together (the stitches that show will be covered over with a leaf) - PHOTO 38

Info :

4. Sew wings to the back of the tooth over rounds 10-15 using the photos as a guide for placement PHOTO 39

β€” Leaves :

Info :

The leaves are worked by making a chain and crocheting around both sides of it. You will make 10 leaves - 5 large and 3 small will be used for the leaf flower and 2 will be used as part of the wings on the back - to cover over the stitches that show when sewing the wings together

Item Name (LARGE LEAVES) :

make 7 in your choice of color (I made 3 using the dark green yarn, 2 using the light green yarn and 2 using the peach yarn which were leftovers I had on hand): Begin by chaining 12.

Round 1 :

sc in 2nd ch from hk, hdc in next ch, dc in next 2 ch, tr in next 3 ch, dc in next 2 ch, hdc in next ch, sc in next ch. PHOTO 40 Continue onto the other side of the chain, and repeat the pattern for the 2nd side of the leaf. PHOTO 41

Info :

Sl st to next st and fasten off. Leave a long tail on ONE of the leaves for sewing them all together. On the other leaves, weave in ends.

Item Name (SMALL LEAVES) :

make 3, using the red yarn: Begin by chaining 8.

Round 1 :

sc in 2nd ch from hk, hdc in next ch, dc in next ch, tr in next ch, dc in next ch, hdc in next ch, sc in next ch. Continue onto the other side of the chain, and repeat the pattern for the 2nd side of the leaf.

Info :

Sl st to next st and fasten off. Leave a long tail on ONE of the leaves for sewing them to the leaf flower. On the other leaves, weave in ends.

β€” Leaf Flower Assembly :

Info :

1. Arrange 5 of the large leaves in a flower formation - PHOTO 42

Info :

2. Using the long tail from one of the leaves, sew them together - PHOTOS 43 & 44

Info :

3. Arrange the 3 small leaves on top of the large flower and sew them on - PHOTO 45

Info :

4. Sew the leaf flower onto the tooth at round 16, centered on the tooth "cup" - PHOTO 46

Info :

5. Sew the additional 2 large flowers over the middle of the wings on the back to cover any stitches showing on the wings - PHOTO 47

Assembly Instructions

  • Sew arms to sides of body over round 25, spacing them about 7 stitches away from the eye; use a long tail and whipstitch securely so the arms sit naturally.
  • Put the skirt on the tooth and weave a very long strand of purple yarn from front to back through the first purple row of the skirt several times to secure it to the body before cinching.
  • Arrange the wings with the large wing on top and the small wing beneath, sew them together using the tail end of the small wing, then sew the combined wings to the back of the tooth over rounds 10-15.
  • Sew the leaf flower onto the tooth at round 16, centered on the tooth cup; use the long tail left on one leaf to secure all leaves together and fasten to the body.
  • Attach the crossbody satchel by sewing the base to the skirt area or side as shown in photos, then thread the drawstring through round 8 and cinch; add beads or buttons as desired.

Important Notes

  • πŸ’‘Use stitch markers to keep track of rounds and the split points for the roots to ensure correct placement when slip stitching the gap closed.
  • πŸ’‘Stuff the roots and tooth firmly but not overstuffed so the shape remains smooth; overstuffing can distort shaping and make assembly difficult.
  • πŸ’‘Weave in ends or leave strategic long tails for assembly so you can sew pieces together cleanly and hide tails inside the toy.

This Tooth Fairy is designed to be a tiny bundle of magic that you can make with leftover yarn and a little time. It makes a heartfelt gift for lost-tooth celebrations and a sweet keepsake to tuck under pillows. Thank you for supporting handmade patterns and happy stitching as you bring this fairy to life! 🧢🦷

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The finished Tooth Fairy measures approximately 10" x 11" wide when using the recommended yarns and hook sizes.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can use different yarn weights but the final size will change; if using a bulkier yarn, use a larger hook, and for smaller results choose a finer yarn and smaller hook.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate because it uses techniques like BLO shaping, joining pieces and working turning rows for wings; basic amigurumi skills and experience reading rounds are recommended.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crocheters complete this project in 5-7 hours, depending on experience and whether you make all accessories and decorative leaves.

Where should I place the safety eyes?

Insert safety eyes between rounds 24 and 25 and space them 20 stitches apart as instructed; embroider eyelashes after eyes are secured.