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Phone Stand Horse/Unicorn Amigurumi Pattern

Phone Stand Horse/Unicorn Amigurumi Pattern
4.9★ Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
3.5K Made This
✂️

Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

🧸

Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

About This Phone Stand Horse/Unicorn Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern creates a functional and adorable phone stand shaped like a horse or a unicorn. It includes complete instructions for body, legs, feet, tail parts, mane parts, ears and jaw so you can crochet each piece separately. The design uses DK or two strands of sport yarn and a 3.0 mm hook for a sturdy, neat finish.

Phone Stand Horse/Unicorn Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Clear round-by-round instructions and helpful assembly notes are included to guide you step by step. Optional pockets and colorful tail/manes let you personalize the finished piece.

Why You'll Love This Phone Stand Horse/Unicorn Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it combines function with cuteness — a phone holder that doubles as a delightful amigurumi. I enjoy the modular approach: you crochet many small parts and then assemble them, which keeps the work interesting and varied. The pattern is flexible, so I can customize colors and mane styles every time I make one. It is also satisfying to add the small details (pockets, tail parts, mane) that bring so much personality to the finished piece.

Phone Stand Horse/Unicorn Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Phone Stand Horse/Unicorn Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Phone Stand Horse/Unicorn Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Phone Stand Horse/Unicorn Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how easily you can customize this pattern by using different colors for the mane and tail; try rainbow colors for the unicorn or earthy tones for a rustic horse.

To make a smaller keychain version, use sport or fingering yarn with a 2.0–2.5 mm hook and omit heavy filling so the piece remains lightweight.

I sometimes embroider a tiny smile or change the eye placement for character variations; moving the eyes up or down alters the facial expression significantly.

Try using boucle or textured yarn for the mane to add a fluffy, playful look without crocheting additional mane parts.

If you want a sturdier phone stand, insert a thin piece of plastic canvas inside the base before finishing and seam it in place for extra rigidity.

I often make tiny crocheted accessories like a scarf, tiny hat or bow to theme the stand for holidays or birthdays.

Use metallic or sparkly yarn for the unicorn horn to make it stand out and give the design a magical touch.

For a more natural look on the horse, use tonal brown shades for mane parts and lightly felt the mane pieces after attaching to soften the texture.

If you want posable arms, insert a short length of floral wire inside the arm before stuffing and secure the wire ends inside the body so the arms can hold small items.

I recommend experimenting with placement of pockets and tail-parts on a practice body first — pin everything in place so you can visualize the final balance before permanently stitching; it saves unpicking later!

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping stitch markers during increases and shaping can cause misplacement of parts; place markers at key positions and move them each round to keep your stitch counts accurate. ✗ Not stuffing evenly makes the body lumpy and unstable; add stuffing gradually and shape as you go, using a small amount of heavy filling in a bag for the front when required. ✗ Changing yarn weight without adjusting hook size will change final dimensions and phone fit; test gauge and adjust hook or yarn to match the recommended size so your phone still fits the stand. ✗ Forgetting to secure yarn-ends inside hooves or pockets can cause loose pieces later; knot and weave in ends on the inside of the parts and secure with a few extra stitches for durability.

Phone Stand Horse/Unicorn Amigurumi Pattern

Make a charming phone stand in the shape of a horse or unicorn with this complete crochet pattern. You will get step-by-step round instructions, component parts (legs, feet, tail, mane, ears, jaw) and assembly notes so your figure is stable and functional. The pattern uses DK/Sport weight yarn with a 3.0 mm hook and includes helpful tips for stuffing and attaching parts. Ideal for gifting or adding a whimsical handmade touch to your desk.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Phone Stand Horse/Unicorn Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    DK weight yarn (or two strands of Sport yarn) - approx. 80 g for body, legs, arms & ears (main color)
  • 02
    Hoof color - approx. 12 g
  • 03
    Tail color(s) - approx. 12 g
  • 04
    Pockets color - approx. 7 g
  • 05
    Mane color(s) - approx. 14 g
  • 06
    Horn color (unicorn) - approx. 3 g
  • 07
    Small amounts of black for eyes and contrast color for mouth
  • 08
    Suggested yarn examples: Puppets Lyric Yarn color-codes: horse: 5003 (brown), 5013 (dark brown), 5001 (black); unicorn: 5000 (white), 5008 (red), 5037 (orange), 5024 (yellow), 5090 (green), 5010 (blue), 5028 (purple), 0248 (light gray), 5001 (black)

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size 3.0 mm
  • 02
    Tapestry needle(s)
  • 03
    Stitch markers (e.g. pieces of scrap yarn)
  • 04
    Scissors
  • 05
    Stuffing (soft polyester filling)
  • 06
    A bit of heavy stuffing (e.g. pea gravel, marbles, sand)
  • 07
    A small freezer bag for the heavy stuffing
  • 08
    Optional: some colored pins for positioning parts

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— ARM (FRONT LEG) (make 2, begin with yarn in HOOF-COLOR) :

Round 1 :

magic ring of 8 sc - 8

Round 2 :

*2sc in next st* around - 16

Round 3 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next st* around - 24

Round 4 :

in back loops: *sc in next st* around - 24

Round 5 :

sc in next 6 st, *inv_dec, sc in next st* x4, sc in next 6 st - 20

Round 6 :

*sc in next st* around - 20

Round 7 :

*sc in next st* around - 20. change to BODY-COLOR with last st. fasten off HOOF-COLOR and secure both yarn-ends with several knots on the hoof's inside.

Round 8 :

in back loops: *sc in next st* around - 20

Note :

stuff the hoof a little bit but keep the underside flat

Round 9 :

*inv_dec, sc in next 3 st* around - 16

Round 10 :

*sc in next st* around - 16

Round 11 :

*sc in next st* around - 16

Round 12 :

*sc in next st* around - 16

Note :

stuff the arm a little bit; the following part of the arm can remain empty

Round 13 :

*inv_dec, sc in next 6 st* x2 - 14

Round 14 :

*sc in next st* around - 14

Round 15 :

*inv_dec, sc in next 5 st* x2 - 12

Round 16 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 17 :

*inv_dec, sc in next 4 st* x2 - 10

Round 18 :

*sc in next st* around - 10

Round 19 :

sc in next 4 st, now flatten the opening so that the stitch you made last sits on the side; both side-stitches remain unworked; crochet the opening closed with: sc in next 4 stitch-pairs. → see page 28 for details on crocheting openings closed. fasten off & weave in yarn-end. → see page 29 for weaving details.

— FOOT (HIND LEG) (make 2, begin with yarn in HOOF-COLOR) :

Round 1 :

magic ring of 8 sc - 8

Round 2 :

*2sc in next st* around - 16

Round 3 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next st* around - 24

Round 4 :

in back loops: *sc in next st* around - 24

Round 5 :

sc in next 6 st, *inv_dec, sc in next st* x4, sc in next 6 st - 20

Round 6 :

*sc in next st* around - 20

Round 7 :

sc in next 7 st, *inv_dec, sc in next 2 st* x2, sc in next 5 st - 18. change to BODY-COLOR with last st.

Round 8 :

in back loops: sc in next 5 st, *dec* x4, sc in next 5 st - 14

Note :

stuff the hoof a little bit, leave the rest of the leg empty

Round 9 :

sc in next 5 st, *inv_dec* x2, sc in next 5 st - 12

Round 10 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 11 :

sc in next 4 st, now flatten the opening so that the stitch you made last sits on the side; both side-stitches remain unworked; crochet the opening closed with: sc in next 5 stitch-pairs. fasten off & weave in yarn-end.

— TAIL-PART 1 (smallest) (make 1, use yarn in TAIL-COLOR) :

Round 1 :

magic ring of 8 sc - 8

Round 2 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next st* around - 12

Round 3 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 4 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 5 :

*inv_dec, sc in next 4 st* around - 10

Round 6 :

sc in next 2 st, now flatten the opening so that the stitch you made last sits on the side; both side-stitches remain unworked; crochet the opening closed with: sc in next 4 stitch-pairs

Round 7 :

ch 1 + turn, begin in 2nd st from hook: *sc in next st* across - 4. fasten off & weave in yarn-end.

— TAIL-PART 2 (make 1, use yarn in TAIL-COLOR) :

Round 1 :

magic ring of 8 sc - 8

Round 2 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next st* around - 12

Round 3 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 4 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 5 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 6 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 7 :

*inv_dec, sc in next 4 st* around - 10

Round 8 :

sc in next 2 st, now flatten the opening so that the stitch you made last sits on the side; both side-stitches remain unworked; crochet the opening closed with: sc in next 4 stitch-pairs

Round 9 :

ch 1 + turn, begin in 2nd st from hook: *sc in next st* across - 4. fasten off & weave in yarn-end.

— TAIL-PART 3 (make 1, use yarn in TAIL-COLOR) :

Round 1 :

magic ring of 8 sc - 8

Round 2 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next st* around - 12

Round 3 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 4 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 5 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 6 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 7 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 8 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 9 :

*inv_dec, sc in next 4 st* around - 10

Round 10 :

sc in next 2 st, now flatten the opening so that the stitch you made last sits on the side; both side-stitches remain unworked; crochet the opening closed with: sc in next 4 stitch-pairs

Round 11 :

ch 1 + turn, begin in 2nd st from hook: *sc in next st* across - 4. fasten off & weave in yarn-end.

— TAIL-PART 4 (make 1, use yarn in TAIL-COLOR) :

Round 1 :

magic ring of 8 sc - 8

Round 2 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next st* around - 12

Round 3 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 4 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 5 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 6 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 7 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 8 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 9 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 10 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 11 :

*inv_dec, sc in next 4 st* around - 10

Round 12 :

sc in next 2 st, now flatten the opening so that the stitch you made last sits on the side; both side-stitches remain unworked; crochet the opening closed with: sc in next 4 stitch-pairs

Round 13 :

ch 1 + turn, begin in 2nd st from hook: *sc in next st* across - 4. fasten off & weave in yarn-end.

— OPTIONAL: POCKET (make 2, use yarn in POCKET-COLOR) :

Info :

After a couple of rounds guide the yarn-end from the beginning to the outside through the center of the magic ring.

Round 1 :

magic ring of 7 sc - 7

Round 2 :

*2sc in next st* around - 14

Round 3 :

*sc in next st* around - 14

Round 4 :

*sc in next st* around - 14

Round 5 :

*sc in next st* around - 14

Round 6 :

*sc in next st* around - 14

Round 7 :

*sc in next st* around - 14

Round 8 :

*sc in next st* around - 14

Round 9 :

*sc in next st* around (sl in last st) - 14. fasten off & weave in yarn-end on the outside.

— JAW (make 1, use yarn in BODY-COLOR) :

Info :

There are no regular increases here.

Round 1 :

magic ring of 6 sc - 6

Round 2 :

sc in next st, 3sc in next st, sc in next st, sc in next st, 2sc in next st, sc in next st, 3sc in next st - 11

Round 3 :

sc in next 2 st, 3sc in next st, sc in next st, sc in next st, 2sc in next st, sc in next 2 st, 2sc in next st, sc in next st, 3sc in next st - 17

Round 4 :

In this round two stitches are marked with additional markers. sc in next 3 st, 3sc in next st (mark the 1st of the 3-increase stitches), sc in next 2 st, 2sc in next st, sc in next 4 st, 2sc in next st, sc in next 2 st, 3sc in next st (mark the 3rd of the 3-increase stitches), sc in next 2 st - 23

Round 5 :

sl in first st. fasten off & weave in yarn-end on the back side.

— MANE-PART 1 & 6 (smallest) (make 2, use yarn in MANE-COLOR) :

Round 1 :

magic ring of 8 sc - 8

Round 2 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next st* around - 12

Round 3 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 4 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 5 :

*inv_dec, sc in next 4 st* around - 10

Round 6 :

*inv_dec, sc in next 3 st* around - 8

Round 7 :

sc in next st, now flatten the opening so that the stitch you made last sits on the side; both side-stitches remain unworked; crochet the opening closed with: sc in next 3 stitch-pairs. fasten off & weave in yarn-end.

— MANE-PART 2 & 5 (make 2, use yarn in MANE-COLOR) :

Round 1 :

magic ring of 8 sc - 8

Round 2 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next st* around - 12

Round 3 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 4 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 5 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 6 :

*inv_dec, sc in next 4 st* around - 10

Round 7 :

*inv_dec, sc in next 3 st* around - 8

Round 8 :

sc in next 1 st, now flatten the opening; crochet the opening closed with: sc in next 3 stitch-pairs. fasten off & weave in yarn-end.

— MANE-PART 3 & 4 (make 2, use yarn in MANE-COLOR) :

Round 1 :

magic ring of 8 sc - 8

Round 2 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next st* around - 12

Round 3 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 4 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 5 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 6 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 7 :

*inv_dec, sc in next 4 st* around - 10

Round 8 :

*inv_dec, sc in next 3 st* around - 8

Round 9 :

sc in next st, now flatten the opening and crochet closed with sc in next 3 stitch-pairs. fasten off & weave in yarn-end.

— EAR (make 2, use yarn in BODY-COLOR) :

Round 1 :

magic ring of 6 sc - 6

Round 2 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next 2 st* around - 8

Round 3 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next 3 st* around - 10

Round 4 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next 4 st* around - 12

Round 5 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 6 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 7 :

now flatten the opening so that the stitch you made last sits on the side; both side-stitches remain unworked; crochet the opening closed with: sc in next 5 stitch-pairs. fasten off & weave in yarn-end.

— HORSE/UNICORN (make 1, begin with yarn in BODY-COLOR) :

Round 1 :

magic ring of 6 sc - 6

Round 2 :

*2sc in next st* around - 12

Round 3 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next st* around - 18

Round 4 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next 2 st* around - 24

Info :

Change of sequence. From here on there are 8 increases per round instead of 6.

Round 5 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next 2 st* around - 32

Round 6 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next 3 st* around - 40

Round 7 :

sc in next 3 st, *2sc in next st, sc in next 4 st* x7, 2sc in next st, sc in next st - 48

Round 8 :

sc in next 3 st, *2sc in next st, sc in next 5 st* x7, 2sc in next st, sc in next 2 st - 56

Round 9 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next 6 st* around - 64

Round 10 :

in this round the arms, feet & tail-part 1 are crocheted to the body (→ see page 30 for details on crocheting body-parts to the body). sc in next 2 st, place the first arm on top of your work and crochet the first arm on with: sc in next 4 stitch-pairs; continue on body with: sc in next 16 st; place the first foot in front and crochet it on with: sc in next 5 stitch-pairs; continue on body with sc in next 2 st; crochet the second foot on with sc in next 5 stitch-pairs; continue on body with sc in next 15 st; crochet second arm on with sc in next 4 stitch-pairs; continue on body with sc in next 5 st; crochet tail-part 1 on with sc in next 4 stitch-pairs; continue on body with sc in next 2 st - 64

Round 11 :

in this round tail-part 2 is crocheted to the body. sc in next 16 st, inv_dec, sc in next 9 st, inv_dec, sc in next 9 st, inv_dec, sc in next 18 st; crochet tail-part 2 on with: sc in next 4 stitch-pairs; continue on body with: sc in next 2 st - 61. guide each of the first tail-part's yarn ends through stitches on the second tail part, between rounds 3 & 4 on the underside and let them come out between rounds 4 & 5 on the other side.

Round 12 :

in this round tail-part 3 is crocheted to the body. sc in next 55 st, crochet tail-part 3 on with: sc in next 4 stitch-pairs, continue on body with: sc in next 2 st - 61

Round 13 :

in this round tail-part 4 is crocheted to the body. sc in next 55 st, crochet tail-part 4 on with: sc in next 4 stitch-pairs, continue on body with: sc in next 2 st - 61. guide the tail parts' yarn ends through stitches between rounds 3 & 4 and let them come out between rounds 8 & 9; let yarn-ends hang there for now; tie one single knot if you like to secure them a bit (needs to be opened again later).

Round 14 :

sc in next 16 st, inv_dec, sc in next 8 st, inv_dec, sc in next 8 st, inv_dec, sc in next 23 st - 58

Round 15 :

*sc in next st* around - 58

Round 16 :

*sc in next st* around - 58

Round 17 :

sc in next 16 st, inv_dec, sc in next 7 st, inv_dec, sc in next 7 st, inv_dec, sc in next 22 st - 55

Info :

During the next two rounds the pockets are crocheted to the body; it's similar to crocheting body-parts to the body with the difference that you place the pockets inside the body instead of placing them in front of it; ignore prompts for pockets if you don't want any and keep crocheting with single crochets until the round is complete.

Round 18 :

in this round the first half of each of the two pockets is crocheted to the body (→ see page 33 for details). sc in next 10 st, place the first pocket inside the body; guide your hook through the next stitch of the body and from there through one of the stitches of the pocket; partially crochet the first pocket on with: sc in next 7 stitch-pairs; continue on body with: sc in next 16 st; partially crochet the second pocket on with: sc in next 7 stitch-pairs; continue on body with: sc in next 15 st - 55

Round 19 :

in this round the second half of the pockets is crocheted to the body. sc in next 10 st, continue on pocket with: sc in next 7 st, continue on body with: sc in next 16 st, continue on second pocket with: sc in next 7 st, continue on body with: sc in next 15 st - 55

Round 20 :

sc in next 16 st, inv_dec, sc in next 6 st, inv_dec, sc in next 6 st, inv_dec, sc in next 21 st - 52

Round 21 :

*sc in next st* around - 52

Round 22 :

*sc in next st* around - 52

Round 23 :

sc in next 16 st, inv_dec, sc in next 5 st, inv_dec, sc in next 5 st, inv_dec, sc in next 20 st - 49

Round 24 :

*sc in next st* around - 49

Round 25 :

*sc in next st* around - 49

Round 26 :

sc in next 16 st, inv_dec, sc in next 4 st, inv_dec, sc in next 4 st, inv_dec, sc in next 19 st - 46

Round 27 :

in this round the end of the first arm is crocheted to the body. sc in next 36 st, crochet the arm on with: sc in next 4 stitch-pairs, continue on body with: sc in next 6 st - 46

Round 28 :

in this round the second arm is crocheted to the body. sc in next 5 st, crochet the arm on with: sc in next 4 stitch-pairs, continue on body with: sc in next 37 st - 46. secure the tail-parts to the body (→ see page 34), untie the knot (if you made one) and guide the prepared yarn-ends from the tail-parts through two stitches of the body; use stitches between round 6 & 7 (counted from the body's opening); make sure the tail-parts sit upright and centered between the arms; pull the yarn-ends tight on the body's inside and check the tail's position; if it looks good secure the yarn-ends with several knots on the body's inside.

Round 29 :

sc in next 16 st, inv_dec, sc in next 3 st, inv_dec, sc in next 3 st, inv_dec, sc in next 18 st - 43

Round 30 :

in this round the jaw is crocheted to the body (→ see page 35). sc in next 18 st, place the jaw in front of the body so that the back side is facing towards you and the straight side with the two marked stitches is lined up with the stitches of the body; begin crocheting in the first of the marked stitches; leave the markers in until next round is done; crochet the jaw partially on with: sc in next 7 stitch-pairs (don't use the slip stitch in the middle for crocheting but the stitch the slip stitch sits in instead); continue on body with: sc in next 5 st, *2sc in next st, sc in next 2 st* x3, sc in next 4 st - 46

Round 31 :

sc in next 6 st, *2sc in next st, sc in next 2 st* x3, sc in next 3 st, now continue along the jaw with: (begin in the free stitch next to the one with the marker) 2sc in next st, sc in next 3 st, *2sc in next st, sc in next st* x2, *sc in next st, 2sc in next st* x2, sc in next 3 st, 2sc in next st, (the markers can now be removed). continue on body with: sc in next 6 st, *2sc in next st, sc in next 3 st* x3, sc in next 3 st - 67. stuff the body; put a handful of heavy filling (e.g. pea gravel, sand, marbles...) into a small freezer bag; close the bag and place it inside the horse's body, towards the front; make sure the front stays flat, don't force it to bulge out; fill the rest with soft stuffing; make sure there are no dents left on the body, especially in the back where the tail-parts are attached.

Round 32 :

sc in next 6 st, *2sc in next st, sc in next 3 st* x3, sc in next 49 st - 70

Round 33 :

*sc in next st* around - 70

Round 34 :

*sc in next st* around - 70

Round 35 :

at the end of this round the stitch-marker is set back by one stitch; leave the last stitch unworked because of that; sc in next 23 st, *inv_dec* x2, sc in next 16 st, *inv_dec* x2, sc in next 5 st, *inv_dec, sc in next 3 st* x3, sc in next 2 st, leave the last stitch unworked - 63. remove the stitch-marker.

Round 36 :

during this round two stitches are marked with additional markers; these positions are later needed for the nostrils; first put the round's stitch-marker in the first of the following stitches: sc in next 5 st, *inv_dec, sc in next 3 st* x3, sc in next 29 st (mark here stitches #10 & 20 with additional markers), *inv_dec, sc in next 2 st* x2, sc in next 6 st - 58

Round 37 :

in this round the first mane-part is crocheted to the body; also two more stitches for the nostrils are marked; crochet mane-part 1 on with: sc in next 3 stitch-pairs; continue on body with: sc in next 5 st, *inv_dec, sc in next 2 st* x2, sc in next 9 st, inv_dec, sc in next 9 st (mark stitches #2 & 9), inv_dec, sc in next 20 st - 54

Round 38 :

in this round the second mane-part is crocheted to the body; crochet mane-part 2 on with: sc in next 3 stitch-pairs; continue on body with: sc in next 20 st, inv_dec, sc in next 7 st, inv_dec, sc in next 20 st - 52

Assembly Instructions

  • Crochet and attach the arms and feet to the body during round 10: place the arm so the hoof underside rests against the body with the "toes" pointing towards the magic ring. Guide your hook through the arm's front loops and the body stitch-pair and crochet the arm on with sc in the next 4 stitch-pairs.
  • Attach the first and second feet in round 10 by positioning the toes pointing towards you and crocheting each foot on with sc in the next 5 stitch-pairs; continue crocheting the body rounds to secure placement.
  • Secure tail parts by guiding a longish piece of yarn through two stitches of the tail-part and into the body between rounds 4 & 5, then guide yarn-ends through each newly attached tail-part and tie or knot inside later to hold the tail upright and centered.
  • Crochet the pockets into the body during rounds 18 and 19 by placing the pocket inside the body, guiding your hook through a body stitch and a pocket stitch, then partially crochet the pocket on with sc in the indicated stitch-pairs so the pocket sits inside the body.
  • Attach the jaw to the body in round 30: align the jaw so the marked stitches match the body's stitches, begin crocheting at the marked stitch and work sc in the indicated stitch-pairs to sew the jaw partially on, continuing the body round to fully secure it.

Important Notes

  • 💡Use a 3.0 mm hook and DK or two strands of Sport yarn for the sample sizes shown; lighter yarn and smaller hooks will make a smaller figure and could affect phone fit.
  • 💡Use a small bag with heavy filling (pea gravel or marbles) placed inside the front of the body to weigh the stand down so the phone doesn't tip the figure forward.
  • 💡Work tight enough so stuffing cannot come through; use a hook one or two sizes smaller than recommended for a tighter fabric if needed.
  • 💡Place stitch markers and additional markers where instructed (for nostrils and marked increase positions) to help align parts correctly during assembly.

This delightful phone stand doubles as a cuddly desk companion and a handy gadget holder — the perfect handmade gift for friends and family. Whether you make the brown horse or a colorful unicorn, the step-by-step rounds and assembly tips let you craft a durable, charming piece with personality. Have fun customizing mane colors and tail parts to make each phone stand uniquely yours! 🧶✨

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

With the recommended DK yarn and 3.0 mm hook the finished figure measures approximately 15 cm wide and 17 cm tall (without horn).

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can use different yarn weights, but your final size will change; use a larger hook for bulkier yarn and a smaller hook for thinner yarn and test the phone fit before finishing.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate — basic knowledge of single crochet, increases, decreases, working in continuous rounds and sewing parts is recommended.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crocheters finish this project in about 5-7 hours, depending on experience and how many optional decorations you add.