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Peacock Amigurumi Pattern

Peacock Amigurumi Pattern
4.8โ˜… Rating
8-10 Hours Time Needed
1.7K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

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All-Day Adventure

Requires 8-10 hours, ideal for a full day of immersive crocheting.

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Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

About This Peacock Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern teaches you to crochet a decorative peacock with an open train of feathers and embroidered eye details. It combines amigurumi shaping for the body and head with flat row work for the train, plus wire reinforcement for feet and tail. You will learn embroidery steps to create the eye pattern on each feather for a colorful finished effect.

Peacock Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

The pattern includes full materials and tool lists, abbreviations and photo-referenced assembly steps. Suitable for crocheters comfortable with rounds, back-loop work and simple embroidery.

Why You'll Love This Peacock Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it combines small-scale amigurumi shaping with decorative, embroidery-rich details that really bring the peacock to life. The train design lets you practice row-based textured stitches and then embroider colorful feather eyes for a satisfying finish. I enjoy how the pattern mixes techniquesโ€”crochet, embroidery and a little wireworkโ€”to create a unique display piece. Making one feels like crafting a tiny sculpture rather than a simple toy, and I always smile when I see the finished train.

Peacock Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Peacock Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Peacock Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Peacock Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how versatile this peacock pattern is for customization โ€” you can easily change the palette to create different moods. Try jewel tones for a dramatic look or pastels for a sweet nursery accent.

To make a larger or smaller peacock, change your yarn weight and hook size. A bulkier yarn with a larger hook will make a chunkier display peacock; thinner yarn and a smaller hook will create a delicate mini version.

I often experiment with the feather embroidery: swap color placements, use variegated yarn for subtle shifts, or add tiny beads to the centre of the eyes for sparkle.

If you want a child-safe toy, skip the craft wire in the legs and tail and instead stuff more firmly and use felt for feet โ€” the peacock will still look charming without exposed wire.

Try using metallic or sparkly crochet thread just for the embroidered eye outline to give the train a glittery sheen under lights.

I sometimes replace the wooden toothpick crest support with a thin piece of plastic craft wire covered in yarn for durability and a softer feel.

For a vintage look, use faded colorways or wash the fabric gently after finishing to soften the overall palette.

Make a matching set by crocheting a few smaller peacocks in complementary shades and arranging them as a seasonal table display.

Change the wing shape by adjusting the number of chains and repeats in the orange petals for longer or shorter fringe elements.

I also like to experiment with the finish: block the train lightly to open the ribs, or apply a tiny bit of fabric stiffener on the reverse side if you want the train to stand more rigidly.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

โœ— Skipping stitch markers during rounds and row joins leads to miscounted stitches; stay disciplined with markers and recount each round to avoid errors. โœ— Stuffing too late or too little causes a collapse or lumps in the body; stuff gradually while crocheting and add fiberfill as you shape to maintain smooth curves. โœ— Pulling yarn too tight when working slip stitches in the train makes the ribbing short and tight; maintain relaxed tension on slip stitches so the train flexes and seams lie flat. โœ— Not securing wire ends or covering wire with yarn can create sharp points; wrap and tuck wire ends securely, use glue if needed, and test stability before finishing. โœ— Rushing embroidery placement makes the feather eyes uneven and off-centre; mark the positions first and work each eye the same way to ensure symmetry.

Peacock Amigurumi Pattern

Make a charming crocheted peacock with an open train of embroidered feathers. This pattern walks you through the body, head, wings, embroidered train and the wire-reinforced legs and tail. You will find step-by-step written instructions and photo references so you can assemble a proud little peacock to display or gift. Enjoy a playful mix of crochet, embroidery and light wirework to create detailed feather eyes.

Intermediate 8-10 Hours

Materials Needed for Peacock Amigurumi Pattern

โ€” Main Fabric

  • 01
    4-ply / Fingering or DK / light worsted yarn in green (main train color)
  • 02
    Blue yarn for body and head (mid/dark blue), approximately small skein
  • 03
    Brown yarn for wings (Scheepjes Stone Washed in Brown Agate (822) used as brown)
  • 04
    Orange / Sweet Orange (411) for wing accents and feather trims
  • 05
    Ochre / Ginger Gold (383) for embroidered eye outline
  • 06
    Turquoise / Tropic (253) or aquamarine for feather eye detail
  • 07
    Tiny bit of beige or caramel for beak and small details (Caramel (506))
  • 08
    Scheepjes Catona colors used in sample: Parrot Green (241), Midnight (527), Sweet Orange (411), Ginger Gold (383), Tropic (253), Caramel (506)

โ€” Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook 2.5mm (Size B-1 or C-2) depending on how tightly you crochet
  • 02
    Yarn needle (preferably with bent tip)
  • 03
    Large-eyed sewing needle for embroidery
  • 04
    Black and white embroidery floss
  • 05
    Fiberfill stuffing
  • 06
    Stitch markers
  • 07
    0.8 to 1mm thick craft wire (for legs and tail reinforcement)
  • 08
    Superglue (small amount for securing crest/toothpick)
  • 09
    Flat pliers (optional, for bending wire)
  • 10
    Sewing pins
  • 11
    Scissors

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

โ€” Body :

Round 1 :

Sc 6 in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

Inc 6 (12)

Round 3 :

[sc, inc]*6 (18)

Round 4 :

Sc, [inc, sc 2]*5, inc, sc (24)

Round 5 :

[sc 3, inc]*6 (30)

Round 6 :

Sc 2, [inc, sc 4]*5, inc, sc 2 (36)

Round 7 :

Ch 8 [img 1], sk 8 [img 2], sc 28 (36)

Info :

This creates an opening out of which you will later crochet the neck.

Round 8 :

Sc 8 in the back loops of the ch sts, sc 24 (36) [img 3]

Round 9 to 11 :

Sc 36 (36)

Round 12 :

Sc 2, [dec, sc 4]*5, dec, sc 2 (30)

Round 13 :

Sc 30 (30)

Round 14 :

[sc 3, dec]*6 (24)

Round 15 :

Sc 24 (24)

Info :

Start filling with fiberfill and continue stuffing as you go.

Round 16 :

Sc, [dec, sc 2]*5, dec, sc (18)

Round 17 :

Sc 18 (18)

Round 18 :

[sc, dec]*6 (12)

Round 19 :

Sc 12 (12)

Round 20 :

Dec 6 (6)

Info :

Fasten off and close the round. (p. 4 of 'Amigurumi Lessons')

โ€” Neck and Head :

Info :

Crochet the neck out of the opening.

Round 1 :

Sc 18 (18) (Please see the detailed description with images below)

Info :

Join the blue yarn at the gap to the right of the first skipped stitch. [img 1] Sc in next 8 sts. [img 2] Sc in space between rnd 6 and 7 of the body. [img 3] Sc in the other side of the 8 chs. [img 4] Sc in the space you first joined the yarn in. [img 5 and 6]

Round 2 :

[sc 7, dec]*2 (16)

Round 3 :

[sc 2, dec]*4 (12)

Round 4 :

Sc 12 (12)

Info :

Fill with fiberfill and continue stuffing as you go.

Round 5 :

[sc, dec]*4 (8)

Round 6 to 8 :

Sc 8 (8)

Round 9 :

[sc, inc]*4 (12)

Round 10 :

Sc 12 (12)

Round 11 :

Dec 6 (6)

Info :

Fasten off and close the round.

โ€” Beak :

Item Name (P1) :

Ch 2

Item Name (P1) :

Sc in 2nd ch from hook (1)

Info :

Fasten off.

Info :

Pin the beak centered to the front of the head between the last two rounds. [img 1] Thread the yarn ends on a yarn needle and bring them through to the same space in between stitches on the back, one by one. [img 2] Tie the ends together and cut them short. Then pull them inside the body, using a hook. [img 3]

โ€” Eye Embroidery :

Infos :

Cut an approx. 70 cm/28'' long piece of white embroidery floss and thread it on a large-eyed sewing needle. Insert the needle next to the beak and stitch through to the top of the head on the same side. Repeat this stitch two more times. [img 1 to 3]

Infos :

Insert the needle at the same spot and stitch through to the back of the head on the same side. [img 4]

Infos :

Now, make a parallel stitch, leaving a small space in between. This stitch is positioned further towards the back of the head. The needle exits at the same spot as in img 4. Repeat this stitch two more times. [img 5 to 7]

Infos :

The stitches almost connect in the front now. Connect the stitches at the back as well with one stitch. [img 8] The needle exits at the other side of the beak from where you can embroider the other side the same way. [img 9]

Infos :

Once you have embroidered the other side, hide the ends the same way you did with the beak. [img 10]

Infos :

Cut a 30 cm/12'' long black piece of embroidery floss and thread it on the large-eyed sewing needle. Make one long stitch between the white stitches. [img 11] Make the same stitch to create a bolder line. This time the needle exits at the center of the black stitch. [img 12]

Infos :

Make two short vertical stitches through the center of the horizontal black stitch. [img 13 and 14] Hide the ends the same way you did previously. [img 15] See the result in img 16.

โ€” Make the crest :

Infos :

Cut a 10 cm / 4'' short piece of blue yarn. Thread it on a yarn needle and insert it vertically, centered at the back of the head. Pull the piece of yarn halfway through and remove the yarn needle. [img 1 and 2]

Infos :

Make a double knot and cut the ends about 1 cm / 0.4'' short. [img 3 and 4] Untwist the yarn ends so that the separate fibers form a crest. [img 5]

โ€” Crochet the wings :

โ€” Crochet the orange parts of the wings (make 2) :

Rnd 1: Sc 6 in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

Inc 6 (12)

Round 3 :

Sc 12 (12)

Round 4 :

[ch 7 [img 1], sc 6 (starting in 2nd ch) [img 2], press both sides together, sl st next st and corresponding st on the opposite side together]*6 [img 3 to 8]

Info :

Fasten off, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing.

โ€” Crochet the brown parts of the wings :

Infos :

The brown parts of the wings are crocheted in rows.

โ€” Crochet the left side :

Ch 3, leaving a long tail for sewing

R 1 :

Sc 2 (starting in 2nd ch from hook), ch 1, turn (2)

R 2 :

Inc 2, ch 1, turn (4)

R 3 :

Inc 1, sc 2, inc 1, ch 1, turn (6)

R 4 to 7 :

Sc 6, ch 1, turn (6)

R 8 :

Sc 2, [sk 1, sc 1]*2, ch 1, turn (4)

R 9 :

Sk 1, sc 3, ch 1, turn (3)

R 10 :

Sc 1, sk 1, sc 1, ch 1, turn (2)

R 11 :

Sc 2, ch 1, turn (2)

R 12 :

Sk 1, sc 1, ch 1, turn (1)

R 13 and 14 :

Sc 1, ch 1, turn (1)

R 15 :

Sc 1 (1)

Info :

Do not fasten off.

Infos :

Now crochet all around the wing. Sc 14 in the side of the wing in between rows all the way to the top [img 1], sc 2 in the other side of the 2-ch-chain you began with [img 2], sc 14 in the other side of the wing in between rows down to the tip of the wing (30) [img 3 to 4]

Info :

Finish with a sl st in the first sc and an invisible finish. Weave in the yarn end.

โ€” Crochet the right side :

Ch 3, leaving a long yarn end for sewing.

R 1 :

Sc 2 (starting in 2nd ch from hook), ch 1, turn

R 2 :

Inc 2, ch 1, turn (4)

R 3 :

Inc 1, sc 2, inc 1, ch 1, turn (6)

R 4 to 7 :

Sc 6, ch 1, turn (6)

R 8 :

[sk 1, sc 1]*2, sc 2, ch 1, turn (4)

R 9 :

Sc 2, sk 1, sc 1, ch 1, turn (3)

R 10 :

Sk 1, sc 2, ch 1, turn (2)

R 11 :

Sc 2, ch 1, turn (2)

R 12 :

Sk 1, sc 1, ch 1, turn (1)

R 13 and 14 :

Sc 1, ch 1, turn (1)

R 15 :

Sc 1 (1)

Info :

Do not fasten off. Now crochet all around the wing, as you did with the left wing. Sc 14 in the side of the wing in between rows all the way to the top, sc 2 in the other side of the 2-ch-chain you began with, sc 14 in the other side of the wing in between rows down to the tip of the wing (30). Finish with a sl st in the first sc and an invisible finish. Weave in the yarn end.

โ€” Attach the wings :

Infos :

Sew on the prange (orange) parts of the wings: Pin the orange parts of the wings on rounds 13 to 16 of the body. The feathers should slightly point upwards. Sew on the feathers along the base and weave in the yarn ends. [img 1 to 3]

Infos :

Sew on the brown parts of the wings: Pin the brown parts of the wings on rounds 6 to 16. They should overlap with the orange parts of the wings and the brown tip should align with the upper orange feathers. Sew them on along the base of the top side. [img 4 to 6]

โ€” Attach the legs with wire :

Infos :

Cut a 50 cm / 20'' long piece of craft wire and insert it in between rounds 12 and 13 of the body with 5 stitches space in between. Both wire ends should be equally long. Bend them downwards. [img 1] Measure 3cm / 1.2'' from the belly, then bend the wire forward. This will be the leg. [img 2]

Infos :

Measure 1cm / 0.4'' from the bend and bend the wire backwards. This will be the outer toe. [img 3] Bend the wire forward. [img 4] Bend the wire backwards at 1.5 cm / 0.6'', measured from the last bend. This creates the middle toe. [img 5]

Infos :

Bend the wire forward [img 6] and backwards again at 1 cm / 0.4''. This shapes the inner toe. [img 7] Now, bend the wire straight backwards, like an extension of the middle toe. Then bend it back forward at 1 cm / 0.4'', measured from the slight bend. This will be the back toe. [img 8]

Infos :

Wrap the remaining wire tightly around the leg and cut off any excess. Bend the legs ever so slightly at half-length. [img 9] Repeat these steps on the other side. [img 10 and 11]

โ€” Crochet the train in green :

Info :

The train of feathers is crocheted in rows. You will crochet a front and a reverse side, which you will sew together after embroidering the front side. Try not to make the slip stitches too tight. Starting with row 2, you will work in the back loops only.

โ€” Crochet the front side of the train :

Ch 38, leaving a long yarn end for sewing.

R 1 :

Tr in 4th ch from hook, tr 4, sc 5, dc 5, sl st 5, hdc 5, sl st 10, ch 1, turn (35)

R 2 :

In BLO: Sl st 10, hdc 5, sl st 5, dc 5, sc 5, tr 5, ch 1, turn (35)

R 3 :

In BLO: [sl st 5, hdc 5]*2, sl st 15, ch 1, turn (35)

R 4 :

In BLO: Sl st 15, [hdc 5, sl st 5]*2, ch 3, turn (35)

R 5 :

In BLO: Tr 5, sc 5, dc 5, sl st 5, hdc 5, sl st 10, ch 1, turn (35)

R 6 :

In BLO: Sl st 10, hdc 5, sl st 5, dc 5, sc 5, tr 5, ch 1, turn (35)

R 7 :

In BLO: Sl st 5, dc 5, [sl st 5, hdc 5]*2, sl st 5, ch 1, turn (35)

R 8 :

In BLO: [sl st 5, hdc 5]*2, sl st 5, dc 5, sl st 5, ch 3, turn (35)

R 9 :

In BLO: Tr 5, sc 5, dc 5, sl st 5, hdc 5, sl st 10, ch 1, turn (35)

R 10 to 49 :

Repeat rows 2 to 9 x 5 times (40 rs)

R 50 :

Sl st 10, hdc 5, sl st 5, dc 5, sc 5, tr 5 (35) [img 1]

Info :

Do not fasten off.

โ€” Crochet the reverse side of the train :

Ch 33, leaving a long end for sewing.

R 1 :

Tr in 4th ch from hook, tr 4, sc 5, dc 5, sl st 5, hdc 5, sl st 5, ch 1, turn (30)

R 2 :

In BLO: Sl st 5, hdc 5, sl st 5, dc 5, sc 5, tr 5, ch 1, turn (30)

R 3 :

In BLO: [sl st 5, hdc 5]*2, sl st 10, ch 1, turn (30)

R 4 :

In BLO: Sl st 10, [hdc 5, sl st 5]*2, ch 3, turn (30)

R 5 :

In BLO: Tr 5, sc 5, dc 5, sl st 5, hdc 5, sl st 5, ch 1, turn (30)

R 6 :

In BLO: Sl st 5, hdc 5, sl st 5, dc 5, sc 5, tr 5, ch 1, turn (30)

R 7 :

In BLO: Sl st 5, dc 5, [sl st 5, hdc 5]*2, ch 1, turn (30)

R 8 :

In BLO: [hdc 5, sl st 5]*2, dc 5, sl st 5, ch 3, turn (30)

R 9 :

In BLO: Tr 5, sc 5, dc 5, sl st 5, hdc 5, sl st 5, ch 1, turn (30)

R 10 to 49 :

Repeat rows 2 to 9 x 5 times (40 rs)

R 50 :

Sl st 5, hdc 5, sl st 5, dc 5, sc 5, tr 5 (30)

Info :

Fasten off, leaving a long yarn end for sewing.

โ€” Embroider the "eyes" on the front side of the train :

Infos :

Cut a long piece of ochre yarn. You can join more yarn later. All yarn ends will be hidden by the reverse side of the train. Embroider the feather's eyes on each of the hdc, dc and tr 'feathers'. Begin at the lower edge. Insert the needle between the 1st and 2nd hdc [img 1], then bring it under the 2nd and 3rd hdc on the opposite side of the 'feather'. [img 2]

Infos :

Repeat this stitch two more times [img 3 and 4], then insert the needle centered above the 5th hdc and in between the 3rd and 4th hdc on the same side. [img 5] Now, insert it centered above the 5th hdc again, this time exiting centered between the 3rd and 4th hdc. [img 6]

Infos :

Insert the needle centered above the 5th hdc again and in between the 3rd and 4th hdc on the other side. [img 7] Repeat this stitch two more times. [img 8 and 9]

Infos :

You can begin embroidering this eye from here. [img 13 to 15] Repeat this with all hdc and dc 'feathers'. When you reach the top row of tr 'feathers', make 7 stitches on the 4th and 5th tr instead of 5. [img 16]

Infos :

Cut a long piece of blue yarn and within the ochre outline, embroider 2 vertical stitches on the 2nd and 3rd hdc on each side (4 in total). [img 17 to 20] Repeat this with all hdc and dc 'feathers'. When embroidering the top row of tr 'feathers', embroider 3 vertical stitches on the 2nd and 3rd tr on each side (6 in total) instead of 2 (4 in total).

Infos :

Cut a turquoise or aquamarine piece of yarn and make a vertical stitch over the 2nd and 3rd hdc in between the ochre and blue stitches. [img 21] Then make a horizontal stitch in between the 1st and 2nd hdc on the left side. The needle exits at the center. [img 22]

Infos :

Now, make a short vertical stitch centered over the 2nd hdc stitches on both sides, centered between the blue stitches. [img 23] Make a horizontal stitch in between the 1st and 2nd hdc on the right side. [img 24] Then make a vertical stitch over the 2nd and 3rd hdc in between the ochre and blue stitches on the right side. [img 25]

Infos :

Make a horizontal stitch to connect the two vertical turquoise stitches. [img 26] Repeat this with all hdc, dc, and tr 'feathers'. Tie the yarn ends together at the wrong side and cut them short.

โ€” Sew the front and reverse side of the train together :

Infos :

Lay the front and reverse sides of the train on top of each other with the wrong sides facing each other. Both sides should align. The top (or the tips of the top row feathers), that you crocheted to the front side later, and the first 5 slip stitches along the bottom side should peek out from under the reverse side. [img 1]

Infos :

Pin the corners of the front and reverse sides of the train together with stitch markers. [img 2] Sew the sides together by stitching together the corresponding stitches, using the long yarn ends. [img 3 to 6]

Infos :

Leave the bottom sides open. Sew the top sides together by stitching the triple crochet and slip stitches along the edge of the reverse side together with the corresponding triple crochet and slip stitches of the front side. [img 7 to 15] Hide the yarn ends inside.

โ€” Reinforce the train with wire :

Infos :

Cut a 60 cm / 24'' long piece of craft wire. You will use it to reinforce the center part of the train. Weave the wire through the reverse side of the train in between row 17 and 18, 21 and 22, 25 and 26, 29 and 30, and 33 and 34. [img 1]

Infos :

Weave any remaining wire along the top and secure it. [img 2 to 5] See result in img 6.

โ€” Sew the train on the body :

Infos :

Pin the train on round 6 of the body. You can slightly stretch the 'ribbing' of the front side of the train. There should be around 9 stitches space on the belly between both corners of the train. [img 1] Pin the reverse side of the train in place. [img 2]

Infos :

Sew the front of the train to the body, using the long yarn end and making small stitches. [img 3] Once you have sewn on the front of the train, make a long stitch to the base of the wing from where you will sew on the reverse side of the train. [img 1]

Infos :

Alternate between small stitches through the train and the body. [img 2 and 3] See result in img 4 to 6. Apply a little glue to a wooden toothpick. Use it to style the crest in shape. Leave it to dry. [img 7] You can also apply a drop of glue to the base of the legs to stop them from moving so that your peacock can stand.

Info :

Your peacock is now complete! I hope you enjoyed crocheting him as much as I did.

Assembly Instructions

  • Attach the beak centered to the front of the head between the last two rounds and secure the yarn ends inside the body as described in the beak instructions.
  • Sew the orange wing feathers to rounds 13โ€“16 of the body, then position and sew the brown wing pieces to rounds 6โ€“16, overlapping so the brown tip aligns with upper orange feathers.
  • Pin the assembled train to round 6 of the body, align corners with approximately 9 stitches space on the belly, then sew the front side to the body and finish by stitching the reverse side into place.
  • Insert craft wire for each leg between rounds 12 and 13 with 5 stitches space, bend the wire into toes as described and wrap remaining wire tightly around each leg; repeat on the opposite side.
  • Weave a 60 cm wire through the reverse side of the train between the specified row pairs (17/18, 21/22, 25/26, 29/30, 33/34) and secure it, then sew the completed train to the body with small stitches.

Important Notes

  • ๐Ÿ’กWork in seamless spirals for the body and neck for a neat finish and easier shaping.
  • ๐Ÿ’กUse stitch markers to mark round starts and important reference stitches when attaching wings and train to maintain alignment.
  • ๐Ÿ’กStuff gradually and evenly while shaping to avoid lumps and to retain the peacock's silhouette.
  • ๐Ÿ’กWhen working slip stitches on the train, keep tension relaxed so the ribbed texture remains flexible and seams align when sewing the front to the reverse side.

This handcrafted Peacock Amigurumi brings bold embroidered feathers and a proud open train into your home. It blends amigurumi shaping with decorative embroidery for a truly special display piece. Make one for yourself or gift it to a bird-lover โ€” it will add handmade charm wherever it stands. ๐Ÿงถ๐Ÿฆš

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The peacock's train will be about 27 cm / 10.5'' wide and the peacock about 13 cm / 5'' tall (feet to tip of centre feather) when using the recommended yarn and hook size.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can use different yarn weights but this will change the final size. Use an appropriate hook for your chosen yarn and expect to change amounts and wire lengths accordingly.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediateโ€”basic experience with single crochet, increases, decreases, working in the back loop only, and simple embroidery is recommended for best results.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

This pattern typically takes about 8-10 hours depending on your speed, experience, and time spent on embroidery and assembly.