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Panda Amigurumi Pattern

Panda Amigurumi Pattern
4.4★ Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
1.2K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

🐥

Charming Critter

Delightful animal designs with sweet details that capture the essence of your favorite woodland and farmyard friends.

About This Panda Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern walks you through crocheting a cute panda amigurumi with separate pieces for the head, body, forelegs, hind legs, ears, tail and a striped sweater. It uses fine 4-ply yarn, small 2mm hook and optional plastic joints or cotter-pin fastenings for posable limbs. The instructions include eye spot shaping, eye installation, embroidery details and clear rounds so you can achieve a professional finish. Photos and tips are provided to make assembly and finishing easy and accurate.

Panda Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Designed to produce a finished toy about 16 cm tall using the specified yarn and hook size. Ideal for crocheters comfortable with basic increases, decreases and small amigurumi assembly.

Why You'll Love This Panda Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it combines a classic, lovable panda design with practical assembly options like plastic joints or cotter pins so you can choose the level of posability. I enjoy the contrast of soft velvet yarn for the body and crisp cotton for the sweater — it creates a charming, tactile toy. The face detailing is fun to embroider and always gives each panda a unique expression that I find delightful. I also appreciate that the pattern is detailed enough to guide you through tricky steps like eye installation and joint placement. Making this panda is always rewarding because the finished toy is both sturdy and irresistibly cute.

Panda Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Panda Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Panda Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Panda Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how easy it is to customize this panda by changing yarn colors; try pastel colors for a softer look or bold contrasts for a playful toy.

I sometimes use a thicker velvet yarn and a larger hook to create a chunkier, cuddlier panda version for younger children.

I also enjoy adding accessories — a tiny crocheted scarf, a little hat, or a miniature backpack looks charming and personal.

For more posability, I swap plastic joints for stronger metal wire and secure the frame inside the body for a semi-posable figure.

I often experiment with eye types: safety eyes, embroidered eyes, or tiny buttons each give a different expression to the face.

If you want a baby-sized version, use thinner yarn and a smaller hook to scale the pattern down into a keychain or pocket-sized toy.

Consider embroidering different mouth shapes or eyebrow angles to create varied personalities for each panda you make.

I like to add subtle shading with chalk pastels on the cheeks or around the eyes to increase depth and charm.

Try combining yarn textures — velvety body yarn with cotton sweater yarn — to make the sweater stand out visually and tactically.

Finally, I recommend creating a small matching set with different sweater colors to gift as a mini collection; they look delightful displayed together.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping stitch markers during shaping leads to misaligned increases and decreases; use a marker at the start of every round and move it each round to keep shaping accurate. ✗ Overstuffing small parts like limbs makes seams awkward and distort the shape; stuff gradually and firmly only where indicated to maintain smooth contours. ✗ Not marking cotter pin or plastic joint positions causes incorrect placement of legs; use contrasting thread to mark the specified stitch spaces before inserting hardware. ✗ Changing yarn tension mid-piece creates uneven rounds and mismatched fit for the sweater; maintain consistent tension or adjust hook size uniformly if needed. ✗ Forgetting to leave long sewing tails when fastening off means you cannot securely attach parts; always leave an ample tail and hide ends inside after sewing.

Panda Amigurumi Pattern

Make a sweet hand-crocheted panda toy with this detailed pattern designed to guide you step-by-step. You will create a 16 cm tall plush panda with movable limbs, embroidered face details and a striped sweater. The pattern includes clear rounds, materials, assembly tips and photos to help you finish a polished toy. Perfect for gifting or displaying, this panda brings charm and personality to your handmade collection.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Panda Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Fine/4ply yarn Katia Velvet Fine 50g/160m (100% polyester) - Color 200 (cream)
  • 02
    Fine/4ply yarn Katia Velvet Fine 50g/160m (100% polyester) - Color 211 (black)
  • 03
    Fine/4ply yarn YarnArt Baby Cotton 50g/165m (50% cotton, 50% acrylic) - Color 444 (dark green)
  • 04
    Fine/4ply yarn YarnArt Baby Cotton 50g/165m (50% cotton, 50% acrylic) - Color 439 (mint green)

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size 2mm
  • 02
    Polyester toy filling (fiberfill)
  • 03
    Scissors
  • 04
    Sewing pins
  • 05
    Eyes with a loop 6-7mm (2pcs)
  • 06
    Wire for the frame (optional) diameter 0.9 mm - 20 cm (D1mm wire referenced for frame)
  • 07
    DMC embroidering floss in black and white colors
  • 08
    Plastic joints size 25mm for hind legs (2pcs) and 15mm for forelegs (2pcs)
  • 09
    Cotter pins fastening: Disks 25mm - 4pcs, Disks 15mm - 4pcs, T-shaped cotter pins 20*2 - 4pcs
  • 10
    Round nose pliers
  • 11
    Blush or dry peach pastel for tinting cheeks
  • 12
    Buttons size 5mm (3pcs)
  • 13
    Stitch markers and yarn needle for sewing

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Head :

Round 1 :

6sc in a MR (6)

Round 2 :

6inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1sc, inc)*6 (18)

Round 4 :

1sc, inc, (2sc, inc)*5, 1sc (24)

Round 5 :

(3sc, inc)*6 (30)

Round 6 :

2sc, inc, (4sc, inc)*5, 2sc (36)

Round 7 :

(5sc, inc)*6 (42)

Round 8 :

3sc, inc, (6sc, inc)*5, 3sc (48)

Round 9 :

(7sc, inc)*6 (54)

Round 10 :

4sc, inc, (8sc, inc)*5, 4sc (60)

Round 11 :

(9sc, inc)*6 (66)

Round 12-13 :

66sc (2 rounds)

Round 14 :

(21sc, inc)*3 (69)

Round 15-16 :

69sc (2 rounds)

Round 17 :

11sc, inc, (22sc, inc)*2, 11sc (72)

Round 18-19 :

72sc (2 rounds)

Round 20 :

(23sc, inc)*3 (75)

Round 21 :

75sc (75)

Round 22 :

12sc, inc, (24sc, inc)*2, 12sc (78)

Round 23-27 :

78sc (5 rounds)

Round 28 :

(11sc, dec)*6 (72)

Round 29 :

5sc, dec, (10sc, dec)*5, 5sc (66)

Round 30 :

(9sc, dec)*6 (60)

Round 31 :

4sc, dec, (8sc, dec)*5, 4sc (54)

Round 32 :

(7sc, dec)*6 (48)

Round 33 :

2sc, dec, (4sc, dec)*7, 2sc (40)

Round 34 :

(3sc, dec)*8 (32)

Round 35 :

(2sc, dec)*8 (24)

Round 36 :

(1sc, dec)*8 (16)

Info :

Cut the yarn, fasten off, leaving the end for sewing pieces.

— Eye Spots (make 2) :

Info :

Work with black yarn. Ch6, start on the second chain from the hook:

Round 1 :

4sc, 3sc in the last chain, on the other side of the chain: 3sc, inc (12)

Round 2 :

inc, 3sc, 3inc, 3sc, 2inc (18)

Round 3 :

1sc, inc, 3sc, (1sc, inc)*3, 3sc, (1sc, inc)*2 (24)

Round 4 :

2sc, inc, 3sc, (2sc, inc)*3, 3sc, (2sc, inc)*2 (30)

Info :

Cut the yarn, fasten off, leaving the end for sewing pieces.

Info :

Attach the eye spots to the head with sewing pins and sew. Using an embroidering floss (2 strands), embroider the eyebrows and mouth. Using an embroidering floss (full thread), embroider the nose (4-5 stitches). With sewing pins mark the place of sewing on the eyes.

Info :

Take the eye D6-7mm and thread the thread into the loop. Pass both threads into the needle and insert it into the points marked with sewing pins and exit it through the back of the head. Repeat the same with the second eye (NOTE! Exit the threads of the first and second eyes at one point behind). Lightly pull the threads and tie together in a knot. Hide the ends inside the head.

Info :

Using a white embroidering floss (full thread), embroider the whites of the eyes. Tint the cheeks with blush or peach-colored pastel.

— Ears (make 2) :

Info :

Work with black yarn. Do not stuff.

Round 1 :

6sc in a MR (6)

Round 2 :

6inc (12)

Round 3 :

(2sc, inc)*4 (16)

Round 4-7 :

16sc (4 rounds)

Info :

Fold in half and crochet 8sc through both sides. Cut the yarn, fasten off, leaving the end for sewing pieces. Attach the ears to the head with sewing pins (in an arc, not a straight line) and sew.

— Forelegs (make 2) :

Info :

Work with black yarn. The marker of the beginning of the round passes behind the leg in the middle. If necessary, crochet extra stitches.

Round 1 :

6sc in a MR (6)

Round 2 :

(1sc, inc)*3 (9)

Round 3 :

(2sc, inc)*3 (12)

Round 4-6 :

12sc (3 rounds)

Round 7 :

6sc, inc, 5sc (13)

Round 8 :

13sc (13)

Round 9 :

6sc, inc, 6sc (14)

Round 10 :

14sc (14)

Round 11 :

7sc, inc, 6sc (15)

Round 12 :

7sc, inc, 7sc (16)

Round 13 :

16sc (16)

Info :

Begin to gradually stuff the leg with fiberfill. Stuff tightly only the lower part. At this stage, you need to make sure that the marker is located at the back of the leg in the middle.

Item Name (Left foreleg P1) :

For plastic joints: Round 14: 11sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 3sc (16). Round 15: 11sc, 2sc on the chain, 3sc (16).

Item Name (Left foreleg P1) :

For cotter pins: Rounds 14-15: 16sc (2 rounds).

Item Name (Right foreleg P1) :

For plastic joints: Round 14: 3sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 11sc (16). Round 15: 3sc, 2sc on the chain, 11sc (16).

Item Name (Right foreleg P1) :

For cotter pins: Rounds 14-15: 16sc (2 rounds).

Info :

Select the diameter of the fastening: fold the leg in half and select a disk / joint that occupies the entire internal space of the leg (the disk / joint D15mm suits me). When using a cotter pin, move 2 rounds down and from the marker 4sc to the left (for the right foreleg) and 4sc to the right (for the left foreleg). Insert a disk with a cotter pin at the marked point/joint in the hole that was done. Continue to gradually stuff the leg with fiberfill. Stuff the upper part of the leg slightly.

Round 16 :

(2sc, dec)*4 (12)

Round 17 :

6dec (6)

Info :

Cut the yarn. Pull off the hole and hide the ends.

— Hind Legs (make 2) :

Info :

Work with black yarn. Ch5, start on the second chain from the hook:

Round 1 :

3sc, 4sc in the last chain, on the other side of the chain: 2sc, inc (11)

Round 2 :

inc, 2sc, 3sc inc, 2sc, 3sc inc, 2sc, 2inc (18)

Round 3 :

1sc, inc, 3sc, 3sc inc, 4sc, 3sc inc, 3sc, (1sc, inc)*2 (25)

Round 4 :

25sc (25)

Round 5 :

24sc - short round (you may have a different number of stitches). Move the marker. It should go behind the leg, in the center of the heel. Guideline - a straight line of the foundation chain. In the process align the marker by crocheting extra stitches.

Round 6 :

8sl st, 9sc, 8sl st (25)

Round 7 :

5sc, (1sc, dec)*5, 5sc (20)

Round 8 :

5sc, 5dec, 5sc (15)

Round 9 :

6sc, sc3tog, 6sc (13)

Round 10 :

6sc, inc, 6sc (14)

Round 11 :

14sc (14)

Round 12 :

7sc, inc, 6sc (15)

Round 13 :

15sc (15)

Round 14 :

7sc, inc, 7sc (16)

Round 15 :

(7sc, inc)*2 (18)

Round 16 :

(8sc, inc)*2 (20)

Round 17 :

20sc (20)

Info :

Begin to gradually stuff the leg with fiberfill. Stuff tightly only the lower part (foot). At this stage, you need to make sure that the marker is located at the back of the leg in the middle.

Item Name (Left hind leg P1) :

Plastic joints: Round 18: 12sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 6sc (20). Round 19: 12sc, 2sc on the chain, 6sc (20). Cotter pins: Rounds 18-19: 20sc (2 rounds).

Item Name (Right hind leg P1) :

Plastic joints: Round 18: 6sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 12sc (20). Round 19: 6sc, 2sc on the chain, 12sc (20). Cotter pins: Rounds 18-19: 20sc (2 rounds).

Info :

Select the diameter of the fastening: fold the leg in half and select a disk / joint that occupies the entire internal space of the leg (the disk / joint D25mm suits me). When using a cotter pin, move 2 rounds down and from the marker 7sc to the left (for the right hind leg) and 7sc to the right (for the left hind leg). Insert a disk with a cotter pin at the marked point/joint in the hole that was done. Continue to gradually stuff the leg with fiberfill. Stuff the upper part of the leg slightly.

Round 20-21 :

20sc (2 rounds)

Round 22 :

(8sc, dec)*2 (18)

Round 23 :

(1sc, dec)*6 (12)

Round 24 :

6dec (6)

Info :

Cut the yarn. Pull off the hole and hide the ends.

— Body :

Info :

Start crocheting with cream yarn. The marker of the beginning of the round will be placed at the back in the middle. If necessary, crochet extra stitches.

Round 1 :

7sc in a MR (7)

Round 2 :

7inc (14)

Round 3 :

(1sc, inc)*7 (21)

Round 4 :

1sc, inc, (2sc, inc)*6, 1sc (28)

Round 5 :

(3sc, inc)*7 (35)

Round 6 :

2sc, inc, (4sc, inc)*6, 2sc (42)

Round 7 :

(5sc, inc)*7 (49)

Round 8 :

3sc, inc, (6sc, inc)*6, 3sc (56)

Round 9-10 :

56sc (2 rounds)

Info :

In round 11 crochet the holes for the hind legs with plastic joints and determine the place of attachment of the cotter pins.

Item Name (For plastic joints P1) :

Round 11: 12sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 28sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 12sc (56). Round 12: 12sc, 2sc on the chain, 28sc, 2sc on the chain, 12sc (56).

Item Name (For cotter pins P1) :

Round 11: 56sc (mark the space between stitches 13 and 14 and the space between stitches 43 and 44 with a thread in a contrasting color for convenience) (56). Round 12: 56sc (56).

Round 13-16 :

56sc (4 rounds)

Round 17 :

13sc, dec, 26sc, dec, 13sc (54)

Round 18 :

54sc (54)

Info :

Insert the cotter pins / joints of the hind legs into the marked points / crocheted holes of ch2 in the body and secure/snap.

Round 19 :

18sc, dec, 3sc, dec, 4sc, dec, 3sc, dec, 18sc (50)

Round 20 :

50sc (50)

Round 21 :

22sc, dec, 2sc, dec, 22sc (48)

Round 22 :

7sc, dec, (14sc, dec)*2, 7sc (45)

Info :

Change color to black, cut the cream yarn. In round 23 crochet the holes for the forelegs with plastic joints and determine the place of fastening of the cotter pins.

Item Name (For plastic joints P1) :

Round 23: 10sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 21sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 10sc (45). Round 24: 10sc, 2sc on the chain, 1sc, dec, 13sc, dec, 3sc, 2sc on the chain, 8sc, dec (42)

Item Name (For cotter pins P1) :

Round 23: 45sc (45) (mark the space between stitches 11 and 12 and the space between stitches 34 and 35 with a thread in a contrasting color). Round 24: (13sc, dec)*3 (42)

Round 25-26 :

42sc (2 rounds)

Round 27 :

6sc, dec, (12sc, dec)*2, 6sc (39)

Round 28 :

(11sc, dec)*2 (36)

Info :

Insert the cotter pins / joints of the forelegs into the marked points / crocheted holes of ch2 in the body and secure/snap. Stuff the body gradually with fiberfill.

Round 29 :

2sc, dec, (4sc, dec)*5, 2sc (30)

Round 30 :

(3sc, dec)*6 (24)

Round 31 :

(2sc, dec)*6 (18)

Round 32 :

(7sc, dec)*2 (16)

Info :

Cut the yarn, fasten off and hide the ends inside. If desired, you can make a wire frame. Take a D1mm wire and fold it in half, as shown in the photo. Wrap the junction of the two ends with insulating tape and insert the frame with one half into the body, and the other half to the head. Sew the head to the body.

— Tail :

Info :

Crochet with cream yarn.

Round 1 :

6sc in a MR (6)

Round 2 :

6inc (12)

Round 3 :

12sc (12)

Round 4 :

(1sc, dec)*4 (8)

Info :

Cut the yarn, fasten off, leaving the end for sewing pieces. Attach the tail to the back with sewing pins (see photo) and sew. In the process slightly stuff the tail with fiberfill.

— Sweater :

Info :

Start crocheting with mint green yarn in rows. Try on the sweater in the process. If it is large or small, change the hook to a size smaller or larger, respectively. Ch37, from the second chain on the hook:

Row 1 :

36sc (36), t-ch, turn

Row 2 :

4sc, inc, (8sc, inc)*3, 4sc (40), t-ch, turn

Info :

Change color to dark green

Row 3 :

BLO: (6sc, 3sc inc)*2, 6sc, inc, 5sc, (3sc inc, 6sc)*2 (49) t-ch, turn

Row 4 :

3sc, inc, 41sc, inc, 3sc (51), t-ch, turn

Info :

Change color to mint green

Row 5 :

BLO: (8sc, 3sc inc)*2, 15sc, (3sc inc, 8sc)*2 (59), t-ch, turn

Row 6 :

3sc, inc, 51sc, inc, 3sc (61)

Info :

Change color to dark green

Row 7 :

BLO: (10sc, 3sc inc)*2, 17sc, (3sc inc, 10sc)*2 (69), t-ch, turn

Row 8 :

11sc, ch6, skip 14sc, 9sc, inc, 9sc, ch6, skip 14sc, 11sc (54), t-ch, turn

Info :

Change color to mint green

Row 9 :

BLO: 11sc, (3sc, inc, 2sc) on the chain, 20sc, (2sc, inc, 3sc) on the chain, 11sc (56), t-ch, turn

Row 10 :

56sc (56)

Info :

Do not cut the yarn. Make an edging on the side of the sweater and crochet buttons loops. Work with mint green yarn: 1sc, ch4 (button loop), 1sc, dark green yarn - 2sc, etc. repeat to the neckline (see photo). Cut the yarn and hide the ends. Sew buttons on the opposite side of the sweater.

Info :

Crochet the sleeves: Attach the dark green yarn to the first unused front loop of row 7 (hold the sweater with the front side towards you) and work: Row 1: 14sc, 6sc on the chain of row 8 (20). Change color to mint green. Row 2: BLO: 20sc (20). Row 3: 20sc (20). Change color to dark green. Row 4: BLO: 20sc (20). Row 5: 20sc (20). Change color to mint green. Row 6: BLO: 20sc (20). Row 7: 20sc (20). Cut the yarn, fasten off and weave in the ends. Crochet the second sleeve in the same way.

Assembly Instructions

  • Attach the eye spots to the head with sewing pins and sew; then mark eye positions with sewing pins and insert D6-7mm eyes by threading the eye loop thread through the marked points and exiting at one point behind both eyes, pull gently and knot the threads, hiding ends inside the head.
  • Sew the embroidered nose (4-5 stitches with full thread) and embroider the eyebrows and mouth with 2 strands of embroidery floss; embroider the whites of the eyes with white floss and tint cheeks with blush or pastel.
  • Fold each ear in half, crochet 8sc through both sides, position ears on the head in an arc using sewing pins (not a straight line) and sew securely.
  • Insert plastic joints or cotter-pin disks into legs as instructed, align marked holes in the body and snap/secure the joints into the body holes; test fit before final stuffing and closing.
  • Sew the head to the body securely; if desired, insert a folded D1mm wire frame with one half into the body and the other half into the head and wrap junction with insulating tape before inserting.
  • Attach tail to the back with sewing pins and sew, stuffing slightly while sewing for shape.
  • Put the sweater on the panda, embroider the navel cross stitch about 0.5-1 cm down from the sweater edge using black embroidery floss (2 strands) and sew buttons on the opposite side of the sweater.

Important Notes

  • 💡Use stitch markers to mark the start of each round and to mark specific stitch spaces for cotter pins or plastic joints to ensure correct placement.
  • 💡Stuff pieces gradually and only as indicated, stuffing tightly for feet and lower parts but more lightly for upper parts to preserve shape.
  • 💡Mark spaces for fastenings with contrasting thread before inserting hardware so you can easily align joints and disks during assembly.
  • 💡Weave in and hide ends inside pieces as you go to avoid bulky seams and make finishing cleaner.
  • 💡If your gauge is different, change hook size to achieve the finished toy size of about 16 cm with the recommended materials.

This adorable Panda amigurumi is designed to be a lovable keepsake, small enough to hold and special enough to gift. It includes posable limb options, embroidered facial details and a cozy striped sweater for personality. Follow the clear rounds and assembly photos to create a polished, huggable friend. 🧶🐼✨

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The size of the finished toy when using the indicated materials is about 16 cm tall.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can use different yarn weights but this will change the final size; choose an appropriate hook size and check gauge to achieve desired dimensions.

Do I need special hardware for the limbs?

You can use plastic joints (25mm for hind legs, 15mm for forelegs) or cotter pin fastenings with disks as described; both methods are explained and marked in the rounds.

What skill level is required to make this panda?

This pattern is rated intermediate and assumes familiarity with increases, decreases, working in the round and basic amigurumi assembly techniques.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crocheters complete this project in 5-7 hours, though time may vary based on experience level and chosen assembly options.