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Dragon Toothless Amigurumi Pattern

Dragon Toothless Amigurumi Pattern
4.9β˜… Rating
12-15 Hours Time Needed
4.1K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Multi-Day Project

A rewarding 12+ hour journeyβ€”perfect for dedicated crafters who love detailed work.

🧸

Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

About This Dragon Toothless Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern makes a poseable Toothless-style dragon amigurumi, approximately 30 cm when made with the specified materials. It uses fine cotton yarn, a small hook, internal wire frames and optional plastic joints or cotter pins for movable limbs. The design includes detailed parts: head, body, forelegs, hind legs, wings, tail and many decorative spines.

Dragon Toothless Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Step-by-step rounds and clear stitching counts are included for each piece to make assembly straightforward. Photos and finishing tips help you place eyes, spines and frames for a professional result.

Why You'll Love This Dragon Toothless Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it brings a beloved dragon character to life with clever shaping and a poseable wire frame. I enjoy how the separate wing frames and secure joint options let you choose the level of durability and movement you want. The mix of small detailed piecesβ€”spines, eyelids, tiny clawsβ€”makes assembly rewarding and charming. Working this pattern always feels like sculpting with yarn, and the finished dragon is one I am proud to display or gift.

Dragon Toothless Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Dragon Toothless Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Dragon Toothless Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Dragon Toothless Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how many ways you can customize this dragon β€” try different yarn colors to make your own character instead of the dark gray original.

I often swap the fine cotton for a slightly bulkier yarn and a bigger hook to create a chunkier cuddly version that is great for little hands.

For a delicate miniature, use thinner yarn and a 1.5mm hook and shorten the wire frames proportionally to make a small keychain version.

I like to embroider extra facial expressions or freckles with contrasting thread to give each dragon its own personality.

Consider replacing seed beads with tiny sequins or metallic thread for sparkly decorative spots on the wings or back.

If you want more poseability, add thin wire into the forelegs as well, or use slightly thicker wire in the wings for stronger poses.

I sometimes make small crocheted accessories β€” a scarf, tiny saddle or felted crown β€” to change the mood and make gift-ready sets.

Experiment with wing shapes: make the wing panels longer or add more scallops to create a bat-like or fairy-like silhouette.

For a softer look, tuck the wire frame inside an extra crocheted tube so the edges become rounded and less angular.

Don’t be afraid to mix techniques β€” felting, embroidery, painted details and small sewn-on felt pieces all add richness and make each dragon unique.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

βœ— Skipping the recommended stitch counts when forming the head and tail can distort the shape; follow each round count exactly and use stitch markers to check your progress. βœ— Forgetting to align the round marker can shift the face and body sections; use the extra (shift) stitch technique described and reposition the marker when needed to keep symmetry. βœ— Overstuffing early in the legs and tail creates lumpy or misshapen parts; stuff gradually, filling tightly only the lower foot area and lightly at the neck and upper body. βœ— Not preparing or bending the wire frame before insertion leads to difficulty shaping wings and tail; pre-bend and test-fit the 1.6mm and 0.9mm wires before inserting and wrapping. βœ— Skipping the instruction to mark holes for plastic joints or cotter pins results in misaligned limbs; mark the indicated stitch spaces with contrast thread and insert joints where specified.

Dragon Toothless Amigurumi Pattern

Create an adorable Toothless-inspired dragon amigurumi with this detailed crochet pattern. You will work with fine cotton, build an internal wire frame for poseable wings and tail, and choose between plastic joints or cotter pins for secure limbs. The pattern is richly illustrated and guides you through every piece so you can assemble a 30 cm lovable dragon.

Intermediate 12-15 Hours

Materials Needed for Dragon Toothless Amigurumi Pattern

β€” Main Fabric

  • 01
    Fine/4ply yarn Yarn Art Baby Cotton 50g/165m (50% cotton, 50% acrylic) - 454 (dark gray) - quantity as needed
  • 02
    Fine/4ply yarn Yarn Art Baby Cotton 50g/165m (50% cotton, 50% acrylic) - 460 (black) - small amount for details
  • 03
    Lace weight/1ply yarn Alpina Lena 50g/280m (100% mercerized cotton) - 10 (yellow) - small amount for eye details
  • 04
    Polyester stuffing (fiberfill) - enough to stuff body, head and limbs
  • 05
    Seed beads - small quantities for decorative spots

β€” Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size 2 mm
  • 02
    Crochet hook size 1.25 mm
  • 03
    Safety or plastic joint parts: plastic joints size 25mm (for hind legs) - 2pcs, size 15mm (for forelegs) - 2pcs (optional)
  • 04
    Cotter pins and disks for joint fastening: disks size 25mm - 4pcs, disks size 15mm - 4pcs, T-shaped cotter pins 20*2 - 4pcs (optional)
  • 05
    Wire for the frame: diameter 0.9mm - pieces: 23cm (2pcs), 19cm (4pcs), 13cm (2pcs); diameter 1.6mm - 45cm (for tail/body frame)
  • 06
    Round nose pliers (for working with wire)
  • 07
    Hot glue gun
  • 08
    Beading needle and needle with a blunt end
  • 09
    Scissors
  • 10
    Sewing pins
  • 11
    Fishing line or nylon thread for sewing seed beads
  • 12
    Yarn needle for sewing pieces and weaving ends
  • 13
    Black and white textile paint for eye pupils and glare
  • 14
    Dry black pastel for tinting wings and tail fins

Progress Tracker

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β€” Head :

Info :

Crochet with dark gray yarn, hook size 2 mm. The marker of the beginning of the round passes exactly in the middle of the back. If necessary, crochet extra stitches. Stuff as you go.

Round 1 :

6sc in a MR (6)

Round 2 :

6inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1sc, inc)*6 (18)

Round 4 :

1sc, inc, (2sc, inc)*5, 1sc (24)

Round 5 :

(3sc, inc)*6 (30)

Round 6 :

2sc, inc, (4sc, inc)*5, 2sc (36)

Round 7 :

(5sc, inc)*6 (42)

Round 8 :

3sc, inc, (6sc, inc)*5, 3sc (48)

Round 9 :

(7sc, inc)*6 (54)

Round 10 :

4sc, inc, (8sc, inc)*5, 4sc (60)

Round 11 :

(9sc, inc)*6 (66)

Round 12 :

66sc (66)

Round 13 :

5sc, inc, (10sc, inc)*5, 5sc (72)

Round 14-21 :

72sc (8 rounds)

Round 22 :

18sc, (BLO 36sc), 18sc (72)

Round 23 :

5sc, dec, (10sc, dec)*5, 5sc (66)

Round 24 :

(9sc, dec)*6 (60)

Round 25 :

4sc, dec, (8sc, dec)*5, 4sc (54)

Round 26 :

(7sc, dec)*6 (48)

Round 27 :

2sc, dec, (4sc, dec)*7, ch3

Round 28 :

skip 2 stitches before marker and 2 stitches after marker, next crochet 1sc, dec, (3sc, dec)*6, 3sc, 1sc on the chain (32)

Round 29 :

2sc on the chain, dec, (2sc, dec)*7 (24)

Round 30 :

(2sc, dec)*6 (18)

Round 31 :

(1sc, dec)*6 (12)

Round 32 :

6dec (6)

Info :

Cut the yarn, fasten off, tighten the hole.

Info :

We will use the hole in round 27-28 to bring the wire frame from the body into the head.

Info :

Attach the dark gray yarn to the first unused front loop of round 21 (keep the hole away from you) and crochet: 17sc, 2hdcinc, 17sc. Cut the yarn, fasten off, hide the ends inside.

β€” Eyes (make 2) :

Info :

Crochet with 1ply yarn Alpina Lena of yellow color, hook size 1.25mm.

Round 1 :

6sc in a MR (6)

Round 2 :

6inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1sc, inc)*6 (18)

Round 4 :

(inc, 2sc)*6 (24)

Round 5 :

3sc, 2hdcinc, 2sc (short round)

Info :

Cut the yarn, fasten off, weave in the ends (bring all the ends to the front side). We will attach the eyes to the head with the wrong side out, as it is less relief than the front.

Info :

On the wrong side of the eye, draw a pupil with black textile paint and a glare with white paint. HDC increases in round 5 are located in the upper inner corner of the eyes (marked in the photo).

Info :

PS. If desired, eyes, pupils and glare can be cut out of felt and glued together. Leave the eyes on the head fixed with sewing pins. We will sew and glue all the pieces at the very end, when we assemble all the other pieces and place them in the places we like.

β€” Eyelids (make 2) :

Info :

Crochet with dark gray yarn, hook size 2 mm. Ch9, start in the second chain from the hook: sl st, 6sc, sl st. Cut the yarn, leaving a long end for sewing pieces. The mood of the dragon depends on the location of the eyelids. You can make him angry or a little sad. Try several options for the location of the eyelids and choose what you like best.

β€” Ears (make 2) :

Info :

Crochet with dark gray yarn, hook size 2 mm. The marker of the beginning of the round passes on the side in the middle. If necessary, crochet extra stitches. Do not stuff.

Round 1 :

6sc in a MR (6)

Round 2 :

(1sc, inc)*3 (9)

Round 3 :

4sc, inc, 4sc (10)

Round 4 :

4sc, inc, 5sc (11)

Round 5 :

5sc, inc, 5sc (12)

Round 6 :

(inc, 5sc)*2 (14)

Round 7-8 :

14sc (2 rounds)

Round 9 :

6sc, dec, 6sc (13)

Round 10 :

5sc, dec, 6sc (12)

Info :

Fold in half and crochet through both sides 6sc. Cut the yarn, leaving a long end for sewing pieces.

β€” Spines 1 (make 2) :

Info :

Crochet with dark gray yarn, hook size 2 mm.

Round 1 :

6sc in a MR (6)

Round 2 :

6sc (6)

Info :

Cut the yarn, leaving a long end for sewing pieces. Fix with sewing pins to the head (see the location in the photo).

β€” Spines 2 (make 2) :

Info :

Crochet with dark gray yarn, hook size 2 mm. Do not stuff.

Round 1 :

6sc in a MR (6)

Round 2 :

(2sc, inc)*2 (8)

Round 3 :

8sc (8)

Info :

Fold in half and crochet through both sides 4sc. Cut the yarn, leaving a long end for sewing pieces. Fix with sewing pins to the head (see the location in the photo).

β€” Spines 3 (make 2) :

Info :

Crochet with dark gray yarn, hook size 2 mm. Do not stuff.

Round 1 :

6sc in a MR (6)

Round 2 :

6sc (6)

Round 3 :

(1sc, dec)*2 (4)

Info :

Cut the yarn, leaving a long end for sewing pieces. Fix with sewing pins to the head (see the location in the photo).

β€” Hind Legs :

Info :

Crochet with dark gray yarn, hook size 2 mm. Ch8, start on the second chain from the hook:

Round 1 :

6sc, 4sc in the last chain, on the other side of the chain: 5sc, inc (17)

Round 2 :

inc, 5sc, 4inc, 5sc, 2inc (24)

Round 3 :

1sc, inc, 5sc, (1hdc, hdcinc)*4, 5sc, (1sc, inc)*2 (31)

Round 4 :

9sc, (3-dc Bobble st in black, 2sc in dark gray)*4, 9sc - short round (you may have a different number of stitches)

Info :

Move the marker. It should pass at the back, in the center of the heel. Guideline - a straight line of the foundation chain. Align it in the process by crocheting extra stitches.

Round 5 :

31sc (31)

Round 6 :

(4sc, dec)*2, 7sc, (dec, 4sc)*2 (27)

Round 7 :

6sc, dec, 5sc, dec, 4sc, dec, 6sc (24)

Round 8 :

6sc, 6dec, 6sc (18)

Round 9-13 :

18sc (5 rounds)

Info :

Begin to gradually stuff the leg with fiberfill. While stuffing tightly only the lower part (foot).

Round 14 :

(5sc, inc)*3 (21)

Round 15-16 :

21sc (2 rounds)

Info :

Left hind leg options shown for fastening:

Round 17 (plastic joints left) :

13sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 6sc (21)

Round 18 (plastic joints left) :

13sc, 2sc on the chain, 6sc (21)

Round 19 (plastic joints left) :

21sc (21)

Round 17-19 (cotter pins left) :

21sc (3 rounds)

Info :

Right hind leg plastic joints option (mirrored):

Round 17 (plastic joints right) :

6sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 13sc (21)

Round 18 (plastic joints right) :

6sc, 2sc on the chain, 13sc (21)

Round 19 (plastic joints right) :

21sc (21)

Round 17-19 (cotter pins right) :

21sc (3 rounds)

Info :

Select the diameter of the fastening: fold the leg in half and select a disk/joint that occupies the entire internal space of the leg (disk/joint D25mm is suitable). When using a cotter pin, move 2 rounds down and away from the marker. 7sc to the left (for the right hind leg), 7sc to the right (for the left hind leg) and insert the disc with the cotter pin. Continue to gradually stuff the leg with fiberfill. Stuff the upper part slightly.

Round 20 :

(5sc, dec)*3 (18)

Round 21 :

(1sc, dec)*6 (12)

Round 22 :

6dec (6)

Info :

Cut the yarn. Tighten the hole and hide the ends inside.

β€” Forelegs :

Info :

Crochet with dark gray yarn, hook size 2 mm. The marker of the beginning of the round should pass at the back, in the center. If necessary, crochet extra stitches.

Round 1 :

6sc in a MR (6)

Round 2 :

6inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1sc, inc)*6 (18)

Round 4 :

5sc, (3-dc Bobble st in black, 2sc in dark gray)*3, 4sc

Round 5-7 :

18sc (3 rounds)

Round 8 :

8sc, dec, 8sc (17)

Round 9 :

17sc (17)

Round 10 :

5sc, dec, 3sc, dec, 5sc (15)

Round 11 :

15sc (15)

Round 12 :

6sc, dec, 7sc (14)

Round 13 :

6sc, 2inc, 6sc (16)

Round 14 :

dec, 12sc, dec (14)

Round 15 :

6sc, 2inc, 6sc (16)

Round 16 :

dec, 12sc, dec (14)

Info :

Begin to gradually stuff the leg with fiberfill. While stuffing tightly only the lower part (foot).

Info :

Left foreleg plastic joints option:

Round 17 (plastic joints left) :

6sc, 2inc, 1sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 3sc (16)

Round 18 (plastic joints left) :

dec, 9sc, 2sc on the chain, 1sc, dec (14)

Round 17 (cotter pins left) :

6sc, 2inc, 6sc (16)

Round 18 (cotter pins left) :

dec, 12sc, dec (14)

Info :

Right foreleg plastic joints option:

Round 17 (plastic joints right) :

3sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 1sc, 2inc, 6sc (16)

Round 18 (plastic joints right) :

dec, 1sc, 2sc on the chain, 9sc, dec (14)

Round 17 (cotter pins right) :

6sc, 2inc, 6sc (16)

Round 18 (cotter pins right) :

dec, 12sc, dec (14)

Info :

Further, the right and left forelegs are crocheted in the same way.

Round 19 :

(5sc, dec)*2 (12)

Round 20 :

6dec (6)

Info :

Cut the yarn. Tighten the hole and hide the ends inside.

β€” Wings (make 2) :

Info :

Take dark gray yarn, hook size 2 mm, wire with a diameter of 0.9mm (23cm-2pcs., 19cm-4pcs., 13cm-2pcs.). Bend the end of each wire as shown in the photo. In the process be careful, work in rows. There will be rows where we will make t-ch and turn and rows where we will skip 1 stitch.

Info :

Ch28, start from the second chain on the hook, working around the wire 23cm long (start from the bend end).

Round 1 :

27sc (27), turn. After that do not work with the wire.

Round 2 :

from the 2nd stitch: 8sc, dec, 12sc, dec (22), turn.

Round 3 :

from the 2nd stitch: 11sc, dec, 6sc (18), turn.

Round 4 :

from the 2nd stitch: 16sc (16), turn.

Round 5 :

from the 2nd stitch: 13sc (13), turn.

Round 6 :

from the 2nd stitch: 12sc (12), turn.

Round 7 :

from the 2nd stitch: 9sc (9), turn.

Round 8 :

from the 2nd stitch: 8sc (8), turn.

Round 9 :

from the 2nd stitch: 4sc (4), turn.

Round 10 :

from the 2nd stitch: 3sc (3), ch3, turn.

Info :

Next, crochet with a wire 19cm long (start from the bend end).

Round 11 :

from the 2nd chain: 2sc, 3sc, +1sc into the corner, 3sc along stitches of the previous row, +1sc into the corner, 2sc along stitches of the previous row, +1sc into the corner, 2sc along stitches of the previous row, +1sc into the corner, 2sc along stitches of the previous row (18), turn.

Round 12 :

from the 2nd stitch: 15sc, dec (16), turn.

Round 13 :

from the 2nd stitch: 7sc (7), turn.

Round 14 :

from the 2nd stitch: 6sc (6), turn.

Round 15 :

from the 2nd stitch: 5sc, +1sc into the corner, 4sc along stitches of the previous row (10), turn.

Round 16 :

from the 2nd stitch: 9sc (9), t-ch, turn.

Round 17 :

from the 2nd stitch: 9sc, +1sc into the corner, 3sc along stitches of the previous row (13), turn (1 stitch of the previous row remains unused!)

Round 18 :

from the 2nd stitch: 12sc (12), t-ch, turn.

Round 19 :

from the 2nd stitch: 9sc (9), turn.

Round 20 :

from the 2nd stitch: 8sc (8), t-ch, turn.

Round 21 :

from the 2nd stitch: 5sc (5), turn.

Round 22 :

from the 2nd stitch: 3sc, inc (5), 3ch, turn.

Info :

Next, crochet with a wire 13cm long (start from the bend end).

Round 23 :

from the 2nd chain: 2sc, 5sc, +1sc into the corner, 3sc along stitches of the previous row, +1sc into the corner, 3sc along stitches of the previous row, +1sc into the corner, 1sc along stitch of the previous row, + 2sc into the corners of the previous rows (19), turn.

Round 24 :

from the 2nd stitch: 18sc (18), turn.

Round 25 :

from the 2nd stitch: 17sc (17), turn.

Round 26 :

from the 2nd stitch: 16sc (16), turn.

Round 27 :

from the 2nd stitch: 14sc (14), turn.

Round 28 :

from the 2nd stitch: 13sc (13), t-ch, turn.

Round 29 :

from the 2nd stitch: 11sc (11), turn.

Round 30 :

from the 2nd stitch: 9sc, inc (11), t-ch, turn.

Round 31 :

from the 2nd stitch: 9sc (9), turn.

Round 32 :

from the 2nd stitch: 7sc, inc (9), 3ch, turn.

Round 33 :

from the 2nd chain: 2sc, 8sc (8), turn.

Round 34 :

from the 2nd stitch: 4sc (4), turn.

Round 35 :

from the 2nd stitch: 3sc (3), turn.

Round 36 :

from the 2nd stitch: 2sc, +1sc into the corner, 4sc along stitches of the previous row (7), turn.

Round 37 :

from the 2nd stitch: 4sc, dec (5), t-ch, turn.

Round 38 :

from the 2nd stitch: 5sc (5), t-ch, turn.

Round 39 :

from the 2nd stitch: 5sc (5)

Info :

Cut the yarn, leaving a long end for sewing pieces. Bend the wire frame along the upper side of the wing. Make an edging along the frame. Attach the dark gray yarn to the marked points in the photo (the exit point of the first wire) and crochet sc along the upper side of the wing. The green arrow shows the direction of crocheting. See photos for positioning and edging.

β€” Tail :

Info :

Crochet with dark gray yarn, hook size 2 mm. The marker of the beginning of the round should pass at the back, in the center. If necessary, crochet extra stitches.

Round 1 :

4sc in a MR (6)

Round 2-4 :

4sc (3 rounds)

Round 5 :

(1sc, inc)*2 (6)

Round 6-8 :

6sc (3 rounds)

Round 9 :

(2sc, inc)*2 (8)

Round 10-11 :

8sc (2 rounds)

Round 12 :

(3sc, inc)*2 (10)

Round 13 :

10sc (10)

Round 14 :

2sc, inc, 4sc, inc, 2sc (12)

Round 15 :

12sc (12)

Round 16 :

(5sc, inc)*2 (14)

Round 17 :

14sc (14)

Round 18 :

3sc, inc, 6sc, inc, 3sc (16)

Round 19 :

16sc (16)

Round 20 :

(7sc, inc)*2 (18)

Round 21-22 :

18sc (2 rounds)

Round 23 :

4sc, inc, 8sc, inc, 4sc (20)

Round 24-26 :

20sc (3 rounds)

Round 27 :

(9sc, inc)*2 (22)

Round 28-30 :

22sc (3 rounds)

Round 31 :

5sc, inc, 10sc, inc, 5sc (24)

Round 32-33 :

24sc (2 rounds)

Round 34 :

(11sc, inc)*2 (26)

Round 35-36 :

26sc (2 rounds)

Round 37 :

6sc, inc, 12sc, inc, 6sc (28)

Round 38 :

28sc

Round 39 :

(13sc, inc)*2 (30)

Info :

Do not cut the yarn. We will crochet the body. Prepare a wire frame. We need a wire with a diameter of 1.6mm and 45cm long. Bend one end, as shown in the photo. Insert the frame into the tail and stuff it.

β€” Body :

Info :

Continue crocheting from the tail. The marker of the beginning of the round passes in the back in the middle. If necessary, crochet extra stitches. Start counting rounds from the beginning for convenience. Focus on 4 inc in round 1.

Round 1 :

11sc, inc, 1sc, 4inc, 1sc, inc, 11sc (36)

Round 2 :

6sc, inc, 22sc, inc, 6sc (38)

Round 3 :

14sc, inc, 8sc, inc, 14sc (40)

Round 4 :

10sc, inc, 18sc, inc, 10sc (42)

Round 5 :

3sc, inc, (6sc, inc)*5, 3sc (48)

Round 6 :

48sc (48)

Round 7 :

(7sc, inc)*6 (54)

Round 8-9 :

54sc (2 rounds)

Info :

In round 10 crochet the holes for the hind legs joints fastening and mark the place for the cotter pins fastening.

Round 10 (plastic joints) :

13sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 24sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 13sc (54)

Round 11 (plastic joints) :

13sc, 2sc on the chain, 24sc, 2sc on the chain, 13sc (54)

Round 10 (cotter pins) :

54sc (mark space between stitches 14 and 15 and stitches 40 and 41 with a thread in a contrasting color for convenience) (54)

Round 11 :

54sc (54)

Round 12-16 :

54sc (5 rounds)

Round 17 :

8sc, dec, (16sc, dec)*2, 8sc (51)

Round 18 :

20sc, dec, 7sc, dec, 20sc (49)

Info :

Insert the cotter pins / joints of the hind legs into the marked points / holes of ch2 in the body and twist / secure.

Round 19 :

49sc (49)

Round 20 :

20sc, dec, 5sc, dec, 20sc (47)

Round 21 :

47sc (47)

Round 22 :

21sc, dec, 1sc, dec, 21sc (45)

Round 23 :

(13sc, dec)*3 (42)

Round 24 :

42sc (42)

Round 25 :

6sc, dec, (12sc, dec)*2, 6sc (39)

Round 26 :

39sc (39)

Round 27 :

(11sc, dec)*3 (36)

Info :

In round 28 crochet the holes for the wings frames, forelegs joints fastening and mark the place for the cotter pins fastening.

Round 28 (plastic joints) :

3sc, ch1, skip 1sc, 4sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 16sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 4sc, ch1, skip 1sc, 3sc (36) - don't confuse! Ch1 - for the wings frames, ch2 - for the plastic joints.

Round 29 (plastic joints) :

3sc, 1sc on the chain, 4sc, 2sc on the chain, 16sc, 2sc on the chain, 4sc, 1sc on the chain, 3sc (36)

Round 28 (cotter pins) :

3sc, ch1, skip 1sc, 28sc, ch1, skip 1sc, 3sc (36) (mark space between stitches 9 and 10 and stitches 27 and 28 with a thread in a contrasting color)

Round 29 (cotter pins) :

3sc, 1sc on the chain, 28sc, 1sc on the chain, 3sc (36)

Round 30 :

8sc, dec, 16sc, dec, 8sc (34)

Round 31 :

34sc (34)

Round 32 :

(15sc, dec)*2 (32)

Round 33 :

32sc (32)

Info :

Insert the cotter pins / joints of the forelegs into the marked points / holes of ch2 in the body and twist / secure (in the same way as for the hind legs).

Round 34 :

7sc, dec, 14sc, dec, 7sc (30)

Info :

Insert the wire frame of the wings into the holes in round 28, connect it with the body frame, wrap it with insulating tape. Sew the wings to the back.

Round 35 :

4sc, dec, (8sc, dec)*2, 4sc (27)

Round 36 :

(7sc, dec)*3 (24)

Round 37 :

24sc (24)

Info :

It is not necessary to stuff the neck tightly.

Info :

Cut the yarn, leaving a long end for sewing pieces. Pass the wire frame into the hole on the head in rounds 27-28, and sew the head to the body, as shown in the photo.

β€” Tail Fin (make 2) :

Info :

Crochet with dark gray yarn, hook size 2 mm. Ch13, start from the second chain on the hook, work in rows in back loops:

Round 1 :

12sc (12), ch3, turn

Round 2 :

from the 2nd chain: 2sc, 11sc (13), turn.

Round 3 :

from the 2nd stitch: 12sc (12), ch3, turn

Round 4 :

from the 2nd chain: 2sc, 11sc (13), turn.

Round 5 :

from the 2nd stitch: 12sc (12), ch3, turn

Round 6 :

from the 2nd chain: 2sc, 11sc (13)

Info :

Cut the yarn, leaving a long end for sewing pieces. Fix the tail fins to the tip of the tail (see photo) and sew.

β€” Spines (make 16) :

Info :

Crochet with dark gray yarn, hook size 2 mm - 4sc in a MR. Pull the ring. Cut the yarn, leaving a long end for sewing pieces. Attach the spines to the tail, body and head (see photo) and sew.

Info :

Sew on seed beads if desired. Tint the wings and tail fins with black dry pastel.

Assembly Instructions

  • Pass the 1.6mm wire frame through the tail (insert at the tip) and into the body, align and wrap the frame where it meets the wings frame. Sew the head to the body by passing the wire frame through the hole in head rounds 27-28 and secure with stitches.
  • Insert plastic joints or cotter pins into the marked ch2 holes in the body (marked during round 10 and 28), twist/secure the joints and assemble the hind legs and forelegs accordingly, making sure the orientation (left/right) matches the notes.
  • Bend and insert the 0.9mm wing wires (23cm, 19cm, 13cm lengths) into each wing panel, shape along the upper side, make an edging by crocheting sc along the frame exit points and sew the completed wings to the back at round 28.
  • Position eyes and eyelids: place yellow eye discs on the head and secure temporarily with sewing pins, paint pupils/glares on the wrong side or use felt pieces, then sew and glue the eyes in place when body assembly is complete.
  • Pin and sew spines, ears and small decorative pieces to the head, body and tail following the photo guides; use long yarn ends to secure pieces from the inside for a clean finish.
  • After all frames and joints are secured, weave in all ends, add seed beads where desired, and tint wings and tail fins lightly with black dry pastel for a finished look.

Important Notes

  • πŸ’‘Use stitch markers to keep track of your rounds, especially when aligning markers for symmetry and when creating holes for frames or joints.
  • πŸ’‘Stuff gradually and shape as you go; stuff the lower parts (feet) firmly and leave the neck and upper body slightly less stuffed for a natural posture.
  • πŸ’‘Prepare and test-fit all wire frames before inserting them; bend the ends and wrap joints with insulating tape where frames meet to avoid abrasion.
  • πŸ’‘Mark positions for plastic joints and cotter pins with a contrasting thread as instructed so it's easy to insert and secure the joints accurately.
  • πŸ’‘Weave in ends and hide tails inside pieces while assembling to maintain a neat outer surface and ensure durability.

This Toothless-inspired dragon is designed to become a treasured handmade companion, full of character and poseable charm. Whether you gift it or keep it, the wire-framed wings and detailed features make it a standout project. Enjoy assembling each piece and adding your own finishing touches to make it uniquely yours. πŸ‰πŸ§Ά

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FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The finished amigurumi measures approximately 30 cm tall when using the recommended yarn, hook sizes and wire frame lengths.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can use different yarn weights, but this will affect the final size and wire frame strength. Use appropriate hook sizes and thicker wire for larger versions.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate, so basic knowledge of crochet stitches and experience with amigurumi shaping, working in rounds and simple wire framing are recommended.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crocheters complete this project in 12-15 hours, though time may vary based on experience, chosen fastening method and finishing details.