🧶 Beautiful ✨ Detailed 💝 Adorable

Demodog Amigurumi Pattern

Demodog Amigurumi Pattern
4.5★ Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
2.1K Made This
✂️

Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

🧸

Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

About This Demodog Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern creates a small Demodog amigurumi with a dramatic five-point mouth and a tiny ripped heart. It features an internal wire armature to shape the mouth flaps and embroidered teeth for character. The instructions include every round, assembly tips, and detailed placement notes to ensure a neat finish.

Demodog Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Designed for fingering weight yarn, but adaptable to other yarns and hooks. Complete with materials list, abbreviations, and sewing guidance to complete your Demodog.

Why You'll Love This Demodog Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it combines playful character design with clever construction—especially the wired mouth flaps that give the Demodog its signature look. I enjoy how the small heart adds an unexpectedly tender detail to an otherwise spooky creature. The step-by-step rounds and photo guidance make the shaping very satisfying to achieve. As a maker, I appreciate that the pattern teaches a few intermediate techniques like armature insertion and flap edging which elevate the finished toy.

Demodog Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Demodog Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Demodog Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Demodog Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how easy it is to customize this Demodog by changing colors; try pastel shades for a softer, whimsical version or darker hues for a more ominous look.

To make a larger Demodog, use a bulkier yarn and larger hook; the proportions will stay similar but the finished size increases nicely.

If you want a mini keychain, use a finer yarn and smaller hook to create a tiny version perfect for bag charms.

I often add embroidered scars, beads, or felt accessories to personalize each Demodog and give it a unique story-driven detail.

For a more child-friendly toy, skip the wire armature and add a softer shaping using extra stuffing and strategic stitching.

Try different heart styles: make a flat appliqued heart, a tiny felt heart, or a multi-colored stitched heart for variety.

I sometimes add a removable collar or tiny crocheted tag to transform the Demodog into a collectible character series.

Experiment with different eye placements or stitched expressions to change the personality from spooky to playful.

If you want posable limbs, use thicker craft wire inside the arms and legs and ensure ends are taped and secured before inserting.

Don't be afraid to combine yarns (like a boucle or metallic strand) for textured flaps or a sparkly mouth border for a fun twist.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping stitch markers during round joins leads to losing the start of round; place a running stitch marker after your join and move it each round to stay accurate. ✗ Not stuffing the head before closing the last flap will make the mouth assembly awkward; stuff the head firmly before closing the final flap so the armature and flaps sit correctly. ✗ Leaving wire ends exposed can poke through the fabric and be dangerous; twist the wire ends and wrap them with tape before inserting to avoid pointy ends sticking out. ✗ Working the flaps too tightly changes their shape and makes them hard to bend; keep an even, moderate tension and avoid over-tightening stitches on the flaps. ✗ Cutting the working yarn too early when making multiple flaps can create ends in the wrong place; follow the instruction to not cut the thread until all flaps are completed to maintain continuity. ✗ Ignoring the note about increasing on the first flap can create asymmetry; when the first flap has only 12 stitches, make the extra increase as instructed so subsequent flaps align correctly.

Demodog Amigurumi Pattern

Make your own creepy-cute Demodog with this detailed amigurumi pattern. You will learn how to crochet the articulated mouth flaps, assemble an internal wire armature, and sew a tiny ripped heart. Clear round-by-round instructions and helpful photos guide you through every step so you can create a memorable handmade collectible.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Demodog Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Fingering weight yarn (4 ply) - main color light brown/grey (Body): Katia Capri 82126 Kaki
  • 02
    Fingering weight yarn (4 ply) - mouth black: Katia Capri 82056 Black
  • 03
    Fingering weight yarn (4 ply) - mouth scarlet: Scheepjes Catona 192 Scarlet
  • 04
    Fingering weight yarn (4 ply) - teeth white: Katia Capri 82050 White
  • 05
    Fingering weight yarn (4 ply) - heart red: Katia Capri 82059 Red
  • 06
    Additional small amounts of black, white, scarlet and red for details

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size 2.5 mm
  • 02
    Sewing needle
  • 03
    Scissors
  • 04
    Wire approximately 1 mm / 18 or 19 Gauge
  • 05
    Pliers (for cutting and bending wire)
  • 06
    Pins
  • 07
    Stitch markers and running stitch markers (scrap piece of yarn)
  • 08
    Fiber fill
  • 09
    Tape for wrapping wire ends

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Notes :

Info :

Pattern is in US terms.

Infos :

I've designed my Demodog using fingering yarn, but you can use other types of yarn if you prefer. Finished size in fingering yarn is 5 inch (13 cm) with mouth opened. And 4 inch (10 cm) with mouth closed.

— Materials & Tools :

Info :

• Crochet hook size 2.5 mm. • Sewing needle. • Scissors. • Wire ±1 mm / 18 or 19 Gauge. • Pliers (for cutting and bending wire). • Pins. • Stitch markers and running stitch markers (scrap piece of yarn). • Fiber fill. • Yarn: Fingering 4 ply in the colors: Black, white, light brown/grey, scarlet and red.

Info :

These are the colors I used: Body: Katia Capri 82126 Kaki. Mouth: Katia Capri 82056 Black. Mouth: Scheepjes Catona 192 Scarlet. Teeth: Katia Capri 82050 White. Heart: Katia Capri 82059 Red.

— Skills & abbreviations :

Info :

Please note: I use the yarn under/yarn over technique in this pattern, as this gives more straight lines. You can use the yarn over/yarn over technique, it won't change the end result too much.

Info :

BLO Back loop only. ch chain stitch. dc double crochet. dec single crochet 2 stitches in front loops together. inc single crochet 2 stitches in same stitch. 3inc single crochet 3 stitches in same stitch. 3dec single crochet 3 stitches in front loops together. FLO Front loop only. mr Magic ring. Rnd Round. sc Single crochet stitch. slst Slip stitch. St, sts stitch, stitches. FO Finish off.

— Mouth :

Round 1 :

B MR 5 (5)

Round 2 :

B (inc) x5 (10)

Round 3 :

B (1sc, inc) x5 (15)

Round 4 :

B (2sc, inc) x5 (20)

Round 5 :

B (3sc, inc) x5 (25)

Info :

Change color to scarlet

Round 6 :

S (4sc, inc) x5 (30)

Round 7 :

S (5sc, inc) x5 (35)

Round 8 :

S (6sc, inc) x5 (40)

Round 9 :

S 8sc, ch1, turn 7sc, inc, ch1, turn 8sc, inc, ch1, turn 8sc, dec, ch1, turn 7sc, dec, ch1, turn 6sc, dec, ch1, turn 5sc, dec, ch1, turn 4sc, dec, ch1, turn 3sc, dec, ch1, turn 2sc, dec, ch1, turn 1sc, dec, ch1, turn dec

Info :

12 rows

Info :

• FO, cut off yarn. • Repeat round 9 x4. • Start with new thread in next stitch in round 9 (slst, ch1 - start 1st stitch in the same stitch). • Work away tail in the next 3 stitches as you go. • When you reach the last flap, don't cut the thread, ch1, turn, and 12 sc down the flap. • When you reach the starting point of the flap, sc into the last (a) and first (b) flap-stitch of round 9. These stitches will now contain 2 sc's, 1 for the flap, and 1 for the border. • NOTE! When you reach the next flap (the first flap you made in rnd 9), it will have only 12 stitches on the right side, first sc on the flap will be an inc to make 13 (c). The next 4 flaps will need no increases here. • Including the first stitch of rnd 9, you will have 13 stitches along the side of each flap (d). • When you reach the top stitch (the point of the flap), sc 1 extra. So total of 3 stitches on top (rightside st. / middle st / leftside st.) • Sc all around the flaps. (135 st. total) Finish off and work away thread.

— Teeth :

Info :

WHITE. Embroider teeth using white thread. They can be a bit messy, some short, some a little longer, but have them facing inward a bit. It doesn't matter if the backside looks messy, you won't see it when the head is finished.

— Head :

Round 1 :

MR 5 (5)

Round 2 :

(inc) x5 (10)

Round 3 :

(1sc, inc) x5 (15)

Round 4 :

(2sc, inc) x5 (20)

Round 5 :

(3sc, inc) x5 (25)

Round 6 :

(4sc, inc) x5 (30)

Round 7 :

(5sc, inc) x5 (35)

Round 8 :

(6sc, inc) x5 (40)

Round 9 to 14 :

40 sc (40) 6 rounds

Round 15 :

8sc, ch1, turn inc, 7sc, ch1, turn inc, 8sc, ch1, turn dec, 8sc, ch1, turn dec, 7sc, ch1, turn dec, 6sc, ch1, turn dec, 5sc, ch1, turn dec, 4sc, ch1, turn dec, 3sc, ch1, turn dec, 2sc, ch1, turn dec, 1sc, ch1, turn dec

Info :

12 rows

Info :

• FO, cut off yarn. • Repeat rnd 15 for each flap. • Start with new thread (slst, ch1) in next stitch in round 14. The first sc will be in the same stitch as the slst, ch1. • Work away tail in the next 3 stitches as you go. • When you reach the last flap, don't cut the thread, ch1, turn and 12 sc down the flap. • When you reach the starting point of the flap, sc into the last and first flap-stitch of round 14. These stitches will now contain 2 sc's, 1 for the flap, and 1 for the border. • Including this first stitch of rnd 14, you will have 13 stitches along the side of each flap. • NOTE! When you reach the next flap (the first flap you made in rnd 14), it will have only 12 stitches on the right side, first sc on the flap will be an inc to fix this. The next 4 flaps will need no increases here. • When you reach the top stitch (the point of the flaps), sc 1 extra. So total of 3 stitches on top (rightside st. / middle st / leftside st.) • Sc all around all remaining flaps. (135 st. total) Don't cut thread!

Info :

• Using iron wire, make armature for flaps. You can use pliers to bend them into the star shape. • Try to make the armature as similar to the mouth shape as possible. • Twist the ends and wrap around with tape, to avoid pointy ends sticking out.

Info :

• Now we start to sc all around the mouth, together with the head, and have the armature trapped inside. • Continue with the thread of the head. • Sandwich the armature between the head and the mouth. • 1. Push the hook through the next head stitch - underneath the armature - through the corresponding mouth stitch. • 2. Pull up yarn, now you have 2 loops on the hook. • 3. Pull up yarn over the armature and 4. Finish the stitch.

Info :

• When reaching the 3 top stitches of the 5 points of the flaps: inc, 3inc, inc. You should have 7 top stitches in total. • Make sure the wire ends are inside the head. • Continue this all around. (155 st. total) • Make sure to stuff the head before closing the last flap. Don't fill the flaps with fiberfill. • Finish off. Cut off yarn and work away thread.

— Arms x2 :

Round 1 :

MR 8 (8)

Round 2 to 6 :

8sc (8) 5 rounds

Info :

FO, slst, work away yarn, don't fill up yet!

— Body :

Info :

KAKI For the Body, we start with an oval shape. You will be going down one side of the chain and back around the other side.

Round 1 :

ch6, sc in 2nd ch. from the hook and work down the chain, 3sc, 3inc, now work on the other side of the chain, 3sc, inc (12) Make 1 slst into the 1st st. of the next round. Treat this slst as the new end of the round, and place your running stitch marker after this slst. The next stitch you crochet is the 1st st of the new round.

Round 2 :

3sc, (inc) x3, 3sc, (inc) x3 (18)

Round 3 :

3sc, (1sc, inc)x3, 3sc, (1sc, inc)x3 (24)

Round 4 to 6 :

24sc (24) 3 rounds

Round 7 :

3sc, (1sc, dec)x3, 12sc (21)

Round 8 :

3sc, (dec)x3, 12sc (18) We'll be attaching the arms in the next round. Start sc on the first arm.

Round 9 :

8sc on 1st arm, continue with body, 2sc, (dec)x3, 2sc, 8sc on 2nd arm, continue with body, 3sc, dec, 3sc (30)

Info :

NOTE! To avoid a gap in the armpit, you can either sew the hole shut. Or after you finish stitching 8sc around the arm, you can do an extra stitch sewing the first stitch of the arm together with the last used stitch of the body again. In the next round, this stitch is to be ignored.

Round 10 :

(3sc, dec)x6 (24)

Round 11 :

(2sc, dec)x6 (18)

Round 12 :

(1sc, dec)x6 (12)

Info :

• Slst, FO, Leave long tail. • It may seem a little off just now, but when you start stuffing firmly, it'll get into shape. The big bulge is it's booty. • Add wire for the arms, bend the ends (to avoid poking out) and wrap the pointy ends with tape. Place it in the arms.

— Legs x2 :

Info :

KAKI For the Legs we start with an oval shape. You will be going down one side of the chain and back around the other side.

Round 1 :

ch4, sc in 2nd ch. from the hook and work down the chain, 1sc, 3inc, now work on the other side of the chain, 1sc, inc, slst (8) Make 1 slst into the 1st st. of the next round. Treat this slst as the new end of the round, and place your running stitch marker after this slst. The next stitch you crochet is the 1st st of the new round.

Round 2 :

1sc, (inc)x3, 1sc, (inc)x3 (14)

Round 3 :

14sc (14)

Round 4 :

1sc, (dec)x3, 7sc (11)

Round 5 :

1sc, 3dec (single crochet 3 stitches in front loops together), 7sc (9)

Round 6 :

1sc, inc, 7sc (10)

Round 7 :

2sc, inc, 7sc (11)

Round 8 :

2sc, inc, 8sc (12)

Round 9 :

3sc, inc, 8sc (13)

Round 10 :

3sc, inc, 9sc (14)

Round 11 :

14sc (14)

Round 12 :

(dec)x7 (7)

Info :

• Slst, FO, leave long tail for sewing. • Stuff the feet firmly, legs very lightly. Sew shut. • Sew legs 6 stitches apart, (from bum). • Counting from the last row of the leg, sew into 5 stitches of leg to attach to the body, also sew the inside of the leg of the 5th row to the body. Make sure the outside of the leg isn't stitched to body and can still bulge. • It's best to place the body on a flat service and pin the legs first, to see if he can sit up properly.

— Tail :

Round 1 :

MR 4 (4)

Round 2 :

3sc, inc (5)

Round 3 :

4sc, inc (6)

Round 4 :

5sc, inc (7)

Round 5 :

6sc, inc (8)

Round 6 :

7sc, inc (9)

Round 7 :

8sc, inc (10)

Info :

• Slst, FO, leave long tail for sewing. • Stuff lightly. • Place 10 pins, as to where the tail will be place. (red pin is starting point.) • Sew tail to body.

— Attaching body to head :

Info :

• Place 12 pins in head, as to where the body will be placed. • Red pin is starting point. • Use 3 stitches directly under flaps; in the middle / 3 stitches to the sides / 3 stitches for back of body. • Now you can sew the body to the head. • I've designed the Demodog using Fingering weight yarn. Should you want to make him in a heavier weight yarn, you might want to sew a few extra stitches at the back of the head, to keep him from falling over, as his head will be heavier. • The body should be stuffed very firmly, to form a stable base for the head.

— Heart :

Round 1 :

MR 6 (6)

Round 2 :

(inc)x6 (12)

Round 3 :

12sc (12)

Info :

FO and work away yarn. Make another part just like the previous one by repeating rounds 1-3. Do not cut the yarn as we will continue using the yarn of the second part.

Round 4 :

Crochet the parts together, 12sc on part 1, and 11sc on part 2, we finish this round 1st earlier (23)

Round 5 :

24sc (24)

Round 6 :

(dec, 6sc)x3 (21)

Round 7 :

(dec, 5sc)x3 (18)

Round 8 :

(dec, 4sc)x3 (15)

Round 9 :

(dec, 3sc)x3 (12) Stuff firmly.

Round 10 :

(dec)x6 (6)

Info :

• FO, sew shut. • Have a few threads dangling from heart, different colors. As if resembling veins - it's a ripped out heart :)

Assembly Instructions

  • Sandwich the armature between the head and the mouth and sc all around the mouth together with the head, trapping the wire armature inside for the flaps.
  • Sew the body to the head by placing 12 pins in the head to mark positions, using 3 stitches directly under flaps (middle / sides / back) and sewing securely.
  • Attach arms by stitching 8 sc around each arm into the body opening as described in round 9 of the body, and sew an extra stitch if needed to close gaps in the armpit.
  • Sew legs to the bottom of the body, spacing them 6 stitches apart from the bum, and stitch through 5 stitches of the leg to secure them to the body.
  • Position the tail using 10 pins around the chosen spot (red pin is starting point) and sew the tail to the body using the long tail left for sewing.
  • Insert and tape the wire ends before placing them into the flaps to avoid poking, and bend the wire armature to match the mouth shape before final assembly.

Important Notes

  • 💡Use stitch markers and a running stitch marker to keep track of the start of each round and any chain-joined rounds for accurate shaping.
  • 💡Stuff the head firmly before closing the last flap so the armature and mouth sit correctly; do not overfill the flaps with fiberfill.
  • 💡Twist and wrap the ends of the wire with tape before inserting into the flaps to avoid pointy ends sticking out and causing injury.
  • 💡When attaching limbs and body, pin parts in place first to check symmetry and balance before sewing for a neat, stable finish.

This adorable Demodog amigurumi is full of character and handcrafted details that make it a standout gift or display piece. Follow the step-by-step rounds, wire armature tips, and assembly notes to bring this quirky creature to life with confidence. Happy crocheting and enjoy creating a spooky-sweet friend! 🧶❤️✨

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The finished amigurumi measures approximately 5 inches (13 cm) tall with the mouth opened and about 4 inches (10 cm) with the mouth closed when using the recommended fingering yarn and 2.5 mm hook.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can use different yarn weights but this will affect final size and proportions; choose a corresponding hook size and be prepared to add extra stitches or reinforcement if using heavier yarn for stability.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate and assumes you are comfortable with magic ring, single crochet, increases and decreases, and working in rounds; basic sewing and simple armature handling skills are also helpful.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crocheters complete this project in 5-7 hours, though the time may vary depending on experience level, customization choices, and extra finishing work like embroidery and armature shaping.

Is the wire armature safe for toys?

If you plan to give the toy to a child, ensure all wire ends are thoroughly taped and hidden inside the head; consider omitting wire if the toy will be handled roughly or given to young children.

Can I change the mouth colors or heart design?

Absolutely — the mouth and heart are easy to recolor; try different contrasting shades for a unique look and experiment with embroidered teeth styles for personality.