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Crochet Frog Door-Stopper Pattern

Crochet Frog Door-Stopper Pattern
4.0★ Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
2.2K Made This
✂️

Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

🧸

Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

About This Crochet Frog Door-Stopper Pattern

This pattern creates a weighted crochet frog door-stopper with a recognizable frog head, body, legs, neck and a curly tongue. You will make the head in two halves, a separate body, tail-like legs and a fold-over neck for durability. The design uses worsted weight yarn and common amigurumi shaping techniques to create a sturdy, usable door-stop.

Crochet Frog Door-Stopper Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

The instructions are written round-by-round with helpful assembly steps and placement tips for eyes, tongue and weight. Perfect for crafters who want a handmade practical accent with personality.

Why You'll Love This Crochet Frog Door-Stopper Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it transforms simple stitches into a quirky, functional frog that brings personality to any room. I enjoy the shaping process—making two head halves and joining them creates a satisfying 3D effect. The addition of a bead bag for weight makes this piece useful as well as cute, and I love how easy it is to customize colors. Sewing the neck and limbs on gives you a chance to personalize the frog's posture and expression, and that finishing step always makes me smile.

Crochet Frog Door-Stopper Pattern step 1 - construction progress Crochet Frog Door-Stopper Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Crochet Frog Door-Stopper Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Crochet Frog Door-Stopper Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how easy it is to personalize this frog — try switching the green for mint, lime or even a striped body for a whimsical twist.

If you want a larger door-stopper, use a bulkier yarn and a bigger hook; you'll also need more stuffing and beads for weight.

For a travel-sized charm, use fingering or sport weight yarn with a smaller hook to create a miniature frog for a bag or shelf.

I often add embroidered freckles or a stitched smile to change the frog's expression; experiment with eye placement to create different personalities.

Try sewing on felt accessories like a tiny crown, bow tie, or a patch pocket to make playful variations for gifts.

Swap the safety eyes for embroidered eyes if making this for a child or nursery to increase safety and add a handmade touch.

Use metallic or sparkly yarn for accents like the toes or tongue to make a festive version for holidays or parties.

If you want a sturdier base, stitch a small flat cardboard disc between two rounds in the bottom of the body before closing for additional stability.

For seasonal decor, adapt colors (orange and brown for autumn, red and white for holidays) and add small themed props like a tiny pumpkin or scarf.

I sometimes fill the bead bag partly with rice for a softer weight feel, but remember to keep the beads sealed inside a nylon stocking to protect the stuffing from moisture.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping the magic ring or chaining too loosely can leave a hole at the center; use a tight magic ring or pull the chain closed firmly to avoid gaps. ✗ Forgetting to insert weight before closing the head or body makes it impossible to properly add beads later; insert your bead bag or stuffing beads while the opening is still large enough. ✗ Not switching yarn color neatly at the mouth edge causes bulky seams; carry the yarn neatly and weave in ends as you change colors for a flat mouth finish. ✗ Attaching safety eyes too late or without reinforcement can cause instability; insert and secure safety eyes before closing the eye pieces and use washers or sew extra thread for safety. ✗ Overstuffing the pieces will distort the round shaping and make assembly awkward; stuff gradually and test shape frequently while decreasing to maintain the desired silhouette.

Crochet Frog Door-Stopper Pattern

Make a playful crochet frog door-stopper that doubles as charming home decor and a functional weight. This amigurumi-style pattern guides you step-by-step through crocheting the head, body, eyes, tongue, legs and neck using worsted weight yarn. Clear round-by-round instructions and assembly notes help you create a durable, weighted door-stop with personality. Perfect as a handmade gift or a fun project to brighten any room.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Crochet Frog Door-Stopper Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Worsted weight yarn (#4) - Green: approximately one skein (main color)
  • 02
    Worsted weight yarn (#4) - Black: very small amount for mouth area (few meters)
  • 03
    Worsted weight yarn (#4) - White: small amount for eyes (small ball)
  • 04
    Worsted weight yarn (#4) - Red: small amount for tongue (small ball)
  • 05
    Safety eyes 10 mm (2 pieces)
  • 06
    Polyester stuffing - small amount for head and body finishing
  • 07
    Stuffing beads or poly beads for weight (amount depends on desired heaviness)
  • 08
    Nylon stocking or mesh bag to hold beads (1)
  • 09
    2 round buttons, size 2 1/4" OR thick cardboard cut to that size (optional) to keep mouth flat

— Tools Required

  • 01
    G Hook (G hook as listed in pattern)
  • 02
    Safety eyes 10 mm (2 pieces)
  • 03
    Measuring tape
  • 04
    Scissors
  • 05
    Darning/yarn needle for sewing and weaving ends
  • 06
    Stitch markers
  • 07
    Polyester stuffing
  • 08
    Stuffing beads for weight
  • 09
    Nylon stocking / mesh bag for beads
  • 10
    Pins for assembly (optional)
  • 11
    2 round buttons (2 1/4") or cardboard circle for mouth support

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Materials :

Info :

Worsted Yarn – any #4 yarn - green = one skein is plenty - black / white / red = very little amts. Safety eyes – 10 mm. Stuffing. Stuffing Beads for weight. Nylon stocking / mesh bag for beads. G Hook. Measuring tape. Scissors / Darning Needle. Stitch markers. 2 round buttons, size 2 1/4" OR thick cardboard cut out to that size – used in mouth to keep flat.

— Stitches :

Info :

Ch – Chain. Sc – Single Crochet. Hdc – Half Double Crochet. Slip Stitch – not abbreviated. ( # ) - number of stitches in row. BLO – back loop.

— Top of Head :

Round 1 :

With black yarn, use the magic circle method if you choose OR chain 2 and single crochet 6 in first chain space (6)

Round 2 :

(increase row) sc 2x in each stitch from row one *inc x 6* around (12)

Round 3 :

(increase row) sc 2x in first stitch then (once) 1sc in next stitch, *inc then 1sc* around (18)

Round 4 :

(increase row) sc 2x in first stitch then 1sc in next 2 stitches *inc, 1sc, 1sc* around (24)

Round 5 :

(increase row) sc 2x in first stitch then 1sc in next 3 stitches *inc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc * around (30)

Info :

CHANGE TO GREEN YARN

Round 6 :

BACK LOOP for this row only sc around each stitch (no increasing) (30)

Round 7 :

sc around each stitch (no increasing) (30)

Round 8 :

sc around each stitch (no increasing) (30)

Round 9 :

sc around each stitch (no increasing) (30)

Round 10 :

sc around each stitch (no increasing) (30)

Round 11 :

sc around each stitch (no increasing) (30)

Info :

insert button here or cutout cardboard piece to keep flat – secure it if you choose, I secured my button by sewing it on with the final knot inside so you can't see it from the outside

Round 12 :

(decrease row) 1sc in next 2 stitches then decrease *1sc, 1sc, dec * x 7 sc in last 2 stitches (23)

Round 13 :

(decrease row) 1sc in next 2 stitches then decrease *1sc, 1sc, dec * x 5 dec and 1sc in last 3 stitches (17)

Round 14 :

sc around each stitch (no dec / inc) (17)

Info :

insert bead bag here for weight before it gets too small of an opening **you will be putting regular stuffing to finish off the "stuffing of the head" after the bean bag. Keep stuffing as we decrease. If your stitching is loose and you see the white stuffing or bean bag, you can also use the same colour green yarn to stuff it. We are not using too much yarn so it's not a big expense to use yarn to stuff the head**

Round 15 :

(decrease row) decrease then 1sc *dec and 1sc * x 5 then one more decrease (11)

Round 16 :

(decrease row) decrease x 5 then sc in last stitch *dec x5 * then 1sc (6)

Round 17 :

cinch last 6 stitches together tightly and finish off

— Bottom of Head :

Round 1 :

With black yarn, use the magic circle method if you choose OR chain 2 and single crochet 6 in first chain space (6)

Round 2 :

(increase row) sc 2x in each stitch from row one *inc x 6* around (12)

Round 3 :

(increase row) sc 2x in first stitch then (once) 1sc in next stitch, *inc then 1sc* around (18)

Round 4 :

(increase row) sc 2x in first stitch then 1sc in next 2 stitches *inc, 1sc, 1sc* around (24)

Round 5 :

(increase row) sc 2x in first stitch then 1sc in next 3 stitches *inc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc * around (30)

Info :

CHANGE TO GREEN YARN

Round 6 :

BACK LOOP for this row only sc around each stitch (no increasing) (30)

Round 7 :

sc around each stitch (no increasing) (30)

Round 8 :

sc around each stitch (no increasing) (30)

Round 9 :

sc around each stitch (no increasing) (30)

Info :

insert button / cardboard piece **I recommend using green yarn to stuff the remainder of the bottom of the head**

Round 10 :

(decrease row) *dec, 1sc * x 10 (20)

Round 11 :

(decrease row) *dec, 1sc * x 10 (10)

Round 12 :

cinch the remainder 10 stitches tightly, finish off

— Tongue :

Item Tongue (P1) :

using RED yarn. Chain 25, turn, 3sc in first chain from hook, sc in next chain, repeat until there is 5 chains remaining. SC in last 5 chains. Finish off

— Eyes :

Item Eyes (P2) :

using WHITE yarn, make 2

Round 1 :

using the magic circle OR chain 2 and sc x5 in first chain space

Round 2 :

(increase row) 2sc in each stitch (10)

Round 3 :

sc around (10)

Round 4 :

sc around (10)

Info :

finish off. INSERT safety eyes in the top of the eyes made. When using the chain 2 method you end up with a tiny "hole" in the top of the eyes perfect for inserting the safety eyes. No they are not too big for the safety eyes to fall out if secured properly

— Body of Frog :

Round 1 :

Using the magic circle method if you choose OR chain 2 and single crochet 6 in first chain space (6)

Round 2 :

(increase row) sc 2x in each stitch from row one *inc x 6* around (12)

Round 3 :

(increase row) sc 2x in first stitch then (once) 1sc in next stitch, *inc then 1sc* around (18)

Round 4 :

(increase row) sc 2x in first stitch then 1sc in next 2 stitches *inc, 1sc, 1sc* around (24)

Round 5 :

(increase row) sc 2x in first stitch then 1sc in next 3 stitches *inc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc * around (30)

Round 6 :

(increase row) sc 2x in first stitch then 1sc in next 4 stitches *inc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc * around (36)

Round 7 :

(increase row) sc 2x in first stitch then 1sc in next 5 stitches *inc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc * around (42)

Round 8 :

(increase row) sc 2x in first stitch then 1sc in next 6 stitches *inc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc * around (48)

Round 9 :

sc around (48)

Round 10 :

sc around (48)

Round 11 :

sc around (48)

Round 12 :

(decrease row) dec then 1sc in next 6 stitches *dec, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc * 6x (42)

Round 13 :

sc around (42)

Round 14 :

(decrease row) dec then 1sc in next 5 stitches *dec, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc * 6x (36)

Round 15 :

sc around (36)

Round 16 :

sc around (36)

Round 17 :

sc around (36)

Round 18 :

(decrease row) dec then 1sc in next 4 stitches *dec, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc * 6x (30)

Round 19 :

sc around (30)

Round 20 :

sc around (30)

Info :

** start stuffing body as we'll be decreasing more and more. You can also insert another bean bag here for weight as well. My stitching is on the tighter side so I didn't need to use yarn to stuff the body here. You can – it's ok **

Round 21 :

(decrease row) dec then 1sc in next 3 stitches *dec, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc * 6x (24)

Round 22 :

(decrease row) dec then 1sc in next 2 stitches *dec, 1sc, 1sc * 6x (18)

Round 23 :

(decrease row) dec then 1sc *dec, 1sc * 6x (12)

Round 24 :

decrease around x 6 (6)

Round 25 :

cinch around last 6 stitches and finish off

— Arms and Legs :

Item Arms and Legs (P3) :

make 2 of each – green yarn. Chain 21, turn

Round 1 :

sc in chain closest to hook (20)

Info :

once at the end – do not finish off – chain 6 and slip stitch to the first chain, repeat that 3 more times to end up with 4 "finger / toes"

Info :

finish off after the 4th slip stitch. Sometimes there will be a small hole where you did you slip stitches, sew up with the yarn tails once you have finished off

— Neck :

Item Neck (P4) :

green yarn (works out to approx 6" before folding). Chain 27, turn

Info :

HDC starting in 2nd chain from hook (25). HDC 4 more rows.

Info :

Since the neck is constantly on the floor, I have made it this long so that I can fold over to make it thicker – sew up the sides; sewing up the bottom not so important as we will be attaching this to the body.

— Assembly :

FIRST :

Sew the tongue to the back of the bottom of head. Sew it up to the centre of the black circle so it doesn't move that much

SECOND :

you will now be sewing the top and bottom parts of the head together. You will only sew it over 10 stitches as you want to make sure the, now mouth, works. Shown without the tongue attached as I was crazy before I put the head together and didn't sew the tongue in first – that's why I know you should and I've instructed you to do this :)

THIRD :

Attach eyes to top of head

FORTH :

Lets sew the legs onto the frog body. Place them on the bottom of the larger part of the body. As well, lets sew the neck onto the top of the body.

FIFTH :

Sew the arms onto the neck. Place them about a half inch from the top of the neck as we still have to sew the neck and head together

SIXTH :

We're here – lets sew the neck onto the bottom of the head – in the middle

Info :

WE ARE DONE !!

Assembly Instructions

  • Sew the tongue to the back of the bottom head and secure it to the centre of the black mouth circle so it does not shift.
  • Sew the top and bottom halves of the head together over approximately 10 stitches so the mouth can open and close; ensure the tongue is already attached before closing.
  • Attach the eyes to the top of the head, inserting the safety eyes into the tiny hole at the top of the eye piece and securing properly with washers or strong thread.
  • Sew the legs to the bottom of the larger body portion and position them symmetrically for balance; insert weight (bean bag) before closing if needed.
  • Attach the neck to the top of the body and sew the arms onto the neck about a half inch from the top, leaving room to attach the head.
  • Sew the neck to the bottom center of the head, aligning carefully and reinforcing seams so the neck stays secure during use.

Important Notes

  • 💡Use stitch markers to mark the start of each round, particularly when changing colors or shaping the head and body.
  • 💡Insert your bead bag or beads for weight before the opening becomes too small; finish with polyester stuffing to fill and shape the piece.
  • 💡Secure safety eyes and any small parts firmly; consider placing them before final stuffing to ensure correct position and safety.
  • 💡Sew mouth support (button or cardboard) into place while the head is open to keep the mouth flat and neat during assembly.

This crochet frog door-stopper is a delightful mix of function and fun—perfect for gifting or brightening your home! It uses common worsted yarn and simple shaping to create a lovable weighted frog that stands up to everyday use. With thoughtful details like a weighted bead bag and a supported mouth, this project is both practical and charming. 🧶🐸

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The finished frog measures approximately 10-12 inches long from head to rear and the body is roughly the size of a small doorstop, depending on yarn tension and stuffing.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can use different yarn weights but the final size will change. If you choose a heavier yarn, use a larger hook and adjust stuffing and bead weight accordingly.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate; you should be comfortable with single crochet, increases, decreases, half double crochet and working in the round before starting.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crocheters complete this project in 5-7 hours, though time may vary depending on experience, customization and assembly pace.