🧶 Beautiful ✨ Detailed 💝 Adorable

Clarence the Peckish Plant Amigurumi Pattern

Clarence the Peckish Plant Amigurumi Pattern
4.0★ Rating
12-15 Hours Time Needed
3.8K Made This
✂️

Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Multi-Day Project

A rewarding 12+ hour journey—perfect for dedicated crafters who love detailed work.

🧸

Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

About This Clarence the Peckish Plant Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern creates Clarence, a playful peckish plant amigurumi with a pot, leafy body, curling vines and a chomping head. The design uses DK cotton yarn and a 3mm hook to produce a finished toy about 27cm tall. Techniques include working in FLO/BLO, invisible decreases and joining shaped pieces together for a neat finish. The pattern contains step-by-step rounds, extra details like pipe-cleaner wiring and helpful assembly photos.

Clarence the Peckish Plant Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

You will make a cozy pot, inner mouth, head halves, lips and detailed leaves and vines, then assemble them all together. The pattern includes tips for stabilising the pot rim and adding wire to vines for poseability.

Why You'll Love This Clarence the Peckish Plant Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it turns simple crochet shapes into a character full of personality and mischief. I enjoy the way the separate pieces—petals, vines and mouth—come together to make a dynamic, poseable plant. The design encourages small finishing techniques like wiring and stabilising which elevate a standard amigurumi into a display piece. Making Clarence feels like crafting a tiny sculptural friend, and I love seeing how different color choices and added details change its character.

Clarence the Peckish Plant Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Clarence the Peckish Plant Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Clarence the Peckish Plant Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Clarence the Peckish Plant Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how easily you can customise Clarence by changing colours and yarn weight — try pastel greens and a soft beige pot for a gentler look.

If you want a chunkier, cuddlier version, use a bulkier yarn and a larger hook; conversely use finer yarn and smaller hook for a mini keychain-sized plant.

I often add embroidered brows or different eye sizes to change expression — position the safety eyes slightly closer or further apart to alter personality.

To make the pot heavier and more stable, sew in a small bag of dried rice or add a balloon weight inside the base before stuffing.

Swap the pipe cleaners for thin floral wire if you want firmer poseability for the vines — double the wire for extra strength and tape the ends to avoid poking.

You can create alternate mouths by making a smaller inner mouth and fewer teeth for a shy plant, or make extra top fangs for a more menacing look.

I sometimes add tiny crocheted accessories like a tiny hat or bow to personalise each plant for gifts or seasonal decor.

Try using variegated yarn for the leaves or contrast-colour veins embroidered in the centre for extra visual interest.

Embellish the pot with surface crochet or simple stitched stripes to match your home decor.

If you want to mass-produce a matching set, print labels with colour codes and stitch counts to keep pieces consistent between makes.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping the back loop rounds when instructed can flatten shaping unexpectedly; always check where the pattern asks for BLO or FLO and work into the correct loop to keep the intended shape. ✗ Forgetting to fold and insert the stabiliser into the pot lip will make the rim floppy and uneven; cut a strip of thick felt or foam stabiliser to the specified width and insert it before closing the lip. ✗ Not counting stitches after increase/decrease rounds causes gradual mismatch of stitch totals; count at the end of each round and mark repeats so you can find the error quickly. ✗ Failing to add pipe cleaners or wire to vines and leaves will make them limp and unposeable; double the pipe cleaners for strength and hide ends inside the piece when sewing to the body.

Clarence the Peckish Plant Amigurumi Pattern

Make your own mischievous plant pal with this detailed amigurumi pattern. You will crochet a pot, leafy body, curling vines and a chompy head with teeth, tongue and wispy hair. The pattern includes full round-by-round instructions, helpful photos and assembly steps so you can finish a charming 27cm tall plant. Perfect for gifting or keeping as a quirky handmade friend.

Intermediate 12-15 Hours

Materials Needed for Clarence the Peckish Plant Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK (100% Cotton, 50g, 125m/137yds)
  • 02
    1 ball Lilac - Tea Rose (443)
  • 03
    1/2 ball Purple - Jam (473)
  • 04
    Small amount Pink - Blush Pink (454)
  • 05
    2 balls Green - Spearmint Green (426)
  • 06
    Small amount White - Paper White (401)
  • 07
    1 ball Light Brown - Soft Fudge (410)
  • 08
    Small amount Dark Brown - Coffee Bean (411)

— Tools Required

  • 01
    3mm crochet hook
  • 02
    Pair of 10mm black safety eyes
  • 03
    16 Long pipe cleaners or some strong wire
  • 04
    A piece of thick felt or foam fabric stabiliser (try Pellon Flex-Foam Stabilizer!)
  • 05
    Toy stuffing (polyester filling)
  • 06
    Tapestry needle
  • 07
    Small amount of PVA glue or starch (optional)
  • 08
    Thick drinking straw or knitting needle (optional for shaping hair)
  • 09
    Scissors
  • 10
    Pins for assembly

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Cozy Plant Pot :

Round 1 :

start 7sc in a magic ring [7]

Round 2 :

inc in all 7 sts [14]

Round 3 :

(1sc, inc in next st) repeat 7 times [21]

Round 4 :

(2sc, inc in next st) repeat 7 times [28]

Round 5 :

(3sc, inc in next st) repeat 7 times [35]

Round 6 :

(4sc, inc in next st) repeat 7 times [42]

Round 7 :

(5sc, inc in next st) repeat 7 times [49]

Round 8 :

(6sc, inc in next st) repeat 7 times [56]

Round 9 :

(7sc, inc in next st) repeat 7 times [63]

Round 10 :

(8sc, inc in next st) repeat 6 times, 9sc [69]

Round 11 :

working in BLO, slst in all 69 sts [69]

Round 12 :

working into the same back loops and over the slip stitches, sc in all 69 sts [69] This creates a more defined, firmer round at the base of the pot!

Round 13 - 17 :

sc in all 69 sts - 5 rounds

Round 18 :

(22sc, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [72]

Round 19 - 22 :

sc in all 72 sts - 4 rounds

Round 23 :

(23sc, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [75]

Round 24 - 27 :

sc in all 75 sts - 4 rounds

Round 28 :

(24sc, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [78]

Round 29 - 32 :

sc in all 78 sts - 4 rounds

Info :

Next round starts the lip of the pot. To add more structure to the lip of the pot cut a strip of thick felt or foam fabric stabiliser and place into the lip of the pot. The strip should be half the height of the lip when measured from Rnd 33 to Rnd 46, and long enough to go all around the circumference of the top of the pot. Tip: If you don't have thick felt or stabiliser try using some corrugated card instead!

Round 33 :

working in FLO, (12sc, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [84]

Round 34 - 45 :

sc in all 84 sts - 12 rounds

Round 46 :

(12sc, inv dec) repeat 6 times [78]

Info :

Fold over the last 13 rounds down to Rnd 33 to form the lip of the pot.

Round 47 :

working in both loops of current round and free back loops left over from Rnd 33, slst in all 78 sts to close the lip [78]

Info :

Fasten off, weave in the ends. Set the pot aside for now and move on to making the head!

— Inner Mouth :

Info :

Make 1 in purple. Ch13, start 2nd ch from hook, work in a round, along both sides of the chain.

Round 1 :

3sc in next ch, 10sc, 3sc in last ch, carry on along the other side of the chain, 10sc, skip last ch [26]

Round 2 :

(inc in next 3 st, 10sc) repeat 2 times [32]

Round 3 :

(inc in next st, 1sc) repeat 3 times, 10sc, (inc in next st, 1sc) repeat 3 times, 10sc [38]

Round 4 :

(2sc, inc in next st) repeat 3 times, 10sc, (2sc, inc in next st) repeat 3 times, 10sc [44]

Round 5 :

(inc in next st, 3sc) repeat 3 times, 10sc, (inc in next st, 3sc) repeat 3 times, 10sc [50]

Round 6 :

(4sc, inc in next st) repeat 3 times, 10sc, (4sc, inc in next st) repeat 3 times, 10sc [56]

Round 7 :

(inc in next st, 5sc) repeat 3 times, 10sc, (inc in next st, 5sc) repeat 3 times, 10sc [62]

Round 8 :

(6sc, inc in next st) repeat 3 times, 10sc, (6sc, inc in next st) repeat 3 times, 10sc [68]

Round 9 :

(inc in next st, 7sc) repeat 3 times, 10sc, (inc in next st, 7sc) repeat 3 times, 10sc [74]

Round 10 :

(8sc, inc in next st) repeat 3 times, 10sc, (8sc, inc in next st) repeat 3 times, 10sc [80]

Round 11 :

(inc in next st, 9sc) repeat 3 times, 10sc, (inc in next st, 9sc) repeat 3 times, 10sc [86]

Round 12 - 13 :

sc in all 86 sts - 2 rounds

Round 14 :

3slst, 33sc, 10slst, 33sc, 7slst [86]

Info :

Fasten off, weave in the end. Note: the slip stitches will sit in the corners of the mouth when joining the pieces.

— Top of the Head :

Info :

Make 1 in lilac.

Round 1 :

start 6sc in a magic ring [6]

Round 2 :

inc in all 6 sts [12]

— Bottom of the Head + Joining the pieces :

Info :

Make 1 in lilac.

Round 1 :

start 6sc in a magic ring [6]

Round 2 - 12 :

work the same way as Top of the Head.

Round 13 - 15 :

sc in all 72 sts - 3 rounds

Info :

Next join in the inner mouth to the bottom of the head. Pick up the Inner mouth and place it under the bottom of the head, wrong sides together, lining up the middle of the slip stitched section with the start of next round.

Info :

Start joining the 2 pieces in middle of the slip stitch section from Rnd 14 of the Inner Mouth, working through both layers.

Round 16 :

work 5sc along the head + slip stitches of the mouth, 33sc along head + mouth, 5sc along the head + slip stitches, next pick up the top half of the head so it rests over the remaining half of the inner mouth, work 5sc along the head + slip stitches, 33sc along head + mouth, 5sc along the head + slip stitches [86]

Info :

Fasten off and weave in the ends.

Info :

Now the head is joined together add in some safety eyes to the top half. Use the corners of the mouth as guides and add the eyes - count 5 sts away from the corner and 5 rounds up and place the eye there, poke a hole in the fabric with a knitting needle or a pencil first to make this easier.

— Lips :

Info :

Join pink yarn to the corner of the mouth.

Round 1 :

work in FLO, sc in all 86 sts [86]

Round 2 - 8 :

sc in all 86 sts - 7 rounds

Info :

Add a ring of wire or pipe cleaners, enclosing it in the tube with the next round. I like to double them up for strength.

Round 9 :

working in FLO + remaining free back loop of the mouth - sc in all 86 sts [86]

Info :

Fasten off and weave in the ends. Add stuffing to the top and bottom half of the head, keeping the roof of the mouth flat.

Info :

With the top of the head towards you, join lilac to the corner of the remaining free stitches of two halves of the head, and close the gap with a row of single crochet, working the stitches through both layers. Tip: Alternatively sew up with a tail of yarn instead!

— Top Fangs :

Info :

Make 2 or more in white.

Round 1 :

start 6sc in a magic ring [6]

Round 2 :

sc in all 6 sts [6]

Round 3 :

(inc in next st, 2sc) repeat 2 times [8]

Round 4 :

sc in all 8 sts [8]

Round 5 :

(inc in next st, 3sc) repeat 2 times [10]

Info :

Fasten off, leave a tail for sewing.

— Bottom Fangs :

Info :

Make 2 or more in white.

Round 1 :

start 6sc in a magic ring [6]

Round 2 :

sc in all 6 sts [6]

Round 3 :

(inc in next st, 2sc) repeat 2 times [8]

Info :

Fasten off, leave a tail for sewing.

Info :

Sew the fangs to the inside seam of the lips in your preferred spot. On the sample the top fangs are sitting further apart than the bottom ones. Press the corners of the mouth up into a cheeky smile and move on to making the body!

— Stem Petals :

Info :

Make 6 in green.

Round 1 :

start 6sc in a magic ring [6]

Round 2 - 3 :

sc in all 6 sts - 2 rounds

Round 4 :

(1sc, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [9]

Round 5 :

sc in all 9 sts [9]

Round 6 :

(2sc, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [12]

Round 7 :

sc in all 12 sts [12]

Round 8 :

(3sc, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [15]

Round 9 :

sc in all 15 sts [15]

Round 10 :

(4sc, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [18]

Round 11 :

sc in all 18 sts [18]

Round 12 :

(5sc, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [21]

Round 13 :

sc in all 21 sts [21]

Round 14 :

(6sc, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [24]

Round 15 :

sc in all 24 sts [24]

Round 16 :

do not stuff, fold the piece flat and work next sts through both layers, 12 sc [12]

Info :

Fasten off the first 5 petals. Do not fasten off the last petal, carry on to join them into the stem, trapping the leftover yarn tails as you work.

Round 1 :

(bring next petal to the work, 12sc along the top) repeat 5 times, then work 12sc along the original (6th) petal [72]

Round 2 - 3 :

sc in all 72 sts - 2 rounds

Round 4 :

(5sc, inv dec, 5sc) repeat 6 times [66]

Round 5 - 6 :

sc in all 66 sts - 2 rounds

Round 7 :

(5sc, inv dec, 4sc) repeat 6 times [60]

Info :

Next group of rounds create a small bend in the stem. If you want the stem to point straight up instead of forward you can work Rnds 8 - 26 as single crochet rounds instead.

Round 8 :

30slst in back loops only (BLO), 30sc in both loops [60]

Round 9 :

30slst in BLO of the slip stitches, 30sc in both loops [60]

Round 10 :

30sc in free front loops (FLO) from both last 2 rounds, 30sc in both loops [60]

Round 11 :

30slst in BLO from Rnd 9 (behind the current round), 30sc in both loops [60]

Round 12 :

30slst in BLO of the slsts, 30sc in both loops [60]

Round 13 :

30sc in free stitches from Rnd 10, 30sc [60]

Round 14 - 17 :

sc in all 60 sts - 4 rounds

Round 18 :

2sc, 26slst in BLO, 32sc in both loops [60]

Round 19 :

2sc, 26slst in BLO of the slsts, 32sc in both loops [60]

Round 20 :

2sc, 26sc in free FLO from last 2 rounds, then work in both loops: 2sc, inv dec, 12sc, inv dec, 12sc, inv dec [57]

Round 21 :

29sc, inv dec, 11sc, inv dec, 11sc, inv dec [54]

Round 22 - 26 :

sc in all 54 sts - 5 rounds

Round 27 :

slst in all 54 sts [54]

Info :

Fasten off and weave in the ends.

— Soil :

Info :

Join dark brown to any slip stitch from Rnd 27 of the stem.

Round 1 :

sc in all 54 sts [54]

Round 2 :

(8sc, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [60]

Round 3 :

(9sc, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [66]

Round 4 :

(5sc, inc in next st, 5sc) repeat 6 times [72]

Round 5 :

(inc in next st, 1sc) repeat 6 times [78]

Info :

Next round joins the soil to the pot. Fold back the brim of the pot so that the slip stitch round is easy to get to. Work the next round through both loops of the soil and Rnd 47 (the slip stitch round) of the pot, pulling the yarn from below the pot's slip stitches.

Round 6 :

slst in all 78 sts [78]

Info :

Fasten off and weave in the ends.

— Twirly Vines :

Info :

Make 3 in green.

Round 1 :

start 5sc in a magic ring [5]

Round 2 - 6 :

sc in all 5 sts - 5 rounds

Round 7 :

inc in next st, 4sc [6]

Round 8 - 12 :

sc in all 6 sts - 5 rounds

Round 13 :

inc in next st, 5sc [7]

Round 14 - 18 :

sc in all 7 sts - 5 rounds

Round 19 :

inc in next st, 6sc [8]

Round 20 - 24 :

sc in all 8 sts - 5 rounds

Round 25 :

inc in next st, 7sc [9]

Round 26 - 30 :

sc in all 9 sts - 5 rounds

Round 31 :

inc in next st, 8sc [10]

Round 32 - 36 :

sc in all 10 sts - 5 rounds

Round 37 :

inc in next st, 9sc [11]

Round 38 - 42 :

sc in all 11 sts - 5 rounds

Round 43 :

inc in next st, 10sc [12]

Round 44 - 55 :

sc in all 12 sts - 12 rounds

Info :

Fasten off, leave a tail for sewing.

— Grippy Leaves :

Info :

Make 2 in green.

Round 1 :

start 6sc in a magic ring [6]

Round 2 :

sc in all 6 sts [6]

Round 3 :

(1sc, 3sc in next st, 1sc) repeat 2 times [10]

Round 4 :

sc in all 10 sts [10]

Round 5 :

(2sc, 3sc in next st, 2sc) repeat 2 times [14]

Round 6 :

sc in all 14 sts [14]

Round 7 :

(3sc, 3sc in next st, 3sc) repeat 2 times [18]

Round 8 :

sc in all 18 sts [18]

Round 9 :

(4sc, 3sc in next st, 4sc) repeat 2 times [22]

Round 10 :

sc in all 22 sts [22]

Round 11 :

(5sc, 3sc in next st, 5sc) repeat 2 times [26]

Round 12 :

sc in all 26 sts [26]

Round 13 :

(6sc, 3sc in next st, 6sc) repeat 2 times [30]

Round 14 :

sc in all 30 sts [30]

Round 15 :

(7sc, 3sc in next st, 7sc) repeat 2 times [34]

Round 16 :

sc in all 34 sts [34]

Round 17 :

(8sc, inc in next st, 8sc) repeat 2 times [36]

Round 18 - 20 :

sc in all 36 sts - 3 rounds

Round 21 :

(inv dec, 4sc) repeat 6 times [30]

Round 22 :

(3sc, inv dec) repeat 6 times [24]

Round 23 :

(inv dec, 2sc) repeat 6 times [18]

Round 24 :

(1sc, inv dec) repeat 6 times [12]

Round 25 :

sc in all 12 sts [12]

Round 26 :

inv dec, 10sc [11]

Round 27 :

inv dec, 9sc [10]

Round 28 - 32 :

sc in all 10 sts - 5 rounds

Round 33 :

inc in next st, 9sc [11]

Round 34 - 38 :

sc in all 11 sts - 5 rounds

Round 39 :

inc in next st, 10sc [12]

Info :

Fasten off, leave a tail for sewing. Press leaves flat. Add wire or pipe cleaners to the leaves and vines, doubling them up for strength.

— Protective Spikes :

Info :

Make as many as you fancy in purple yarn. Ch4, start 2nd ch from hook.

Row 1 :

1slst, 1sc, 1hdc [3]

Info :

Fasten off, leave a tail for sewing.

— Wispy Hair :

Info :

Make as many as you fancy in purple yarn.

Row 1 :

Ch25 [25]

Info :

Fasten off, leave a tail for sewing. Wrap the wispy hair around a thick straw or a knitting needle, cover in PVA glue or starch and leave to dry overnight. When completely dry take the hair off the straw and trim one of the tail ends.

— Stingy Tongue :

Info :

Make 1 in purple yarn. Ch26, start 2nd ch from hook, for neater edges work in third loop/back hump of the chains.

Row 1 :

1slst in next ch, 2sc, 2hdc, ch6, start 2nd ch from hook, slst in next ch, 2sc, 2hdc, now carry on along the main chain, 21dc [21+forked tip]

Info :

Fasten off, leave a tail for sewing.

— Assembly :

Info :

First we will add stuffing to the plant pot. To keep the base flat it helps to add in a circle of felt or thick card into the base before adding the stuffing.

Info :

Clarence is quite top-heavy; sew the vines to the back of the pot to counter-balance the head. You can add a balloon weight or weighted beads for extra stability if required.

Assembly Instructions

  • Cut a circle of felt, foam or card to fit the base of the pot and place it into the pot before adding stuffing to keep the base flat.
  • Place the assembled body into the pot, sew the Grippy Leaves to the sides of the body and push the ends of the pipe cleaners into the body before sewing to secure them.
  • Spread the twirly vines evenly around the back of the plant and sew down each vine, curling up the ends and pushing the pipe cleaner ends into the soil for stability.
  • Sew the head into the neck opening using a tail of lilac yarn, stitching through the back seam and the three back petals, then stitch around the lower half of the head where the chin sits on the petals.
  • Turn up the corners of the mouth into the desired smile and sew the protective spikes randomly over the body as desired.
  • Embroider spots on the top of the head and embroider veins onto the leaves, then sew wispy hair to the top of the head and arrange as you like.

Important Notes

  • 💡Use stitch markers to keep track of your rounds, especially when joining the inner mouth to the head and when working BLO/FLO rounds.
  • 💡Fold and insert the felt or foam stabiliser into the pot lip before closing to create a neat, stable rim.
  • 💡Add wire or doubled pipe cleaners to the vines and leaves for poseability, and hide the ends inside the pieces when attaching for a clean finish.

This playful Clarence design combines crochet techniques and tiny finishing details to create a characterful piece you will be proud to display. Make it in bright contrasts or soft pastels—the personality really comes from the little details. Have fun stitching, shaping and styling your peckish plant! 🧶🌿✨

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The finished amigurumi measures approximately 27 cm (10 1/2 in) tall when made in DK weight cotton with a 3mm hook.

Can I use a different yarn weight for this pattern?

Yes, but changing yarn weight and hook size will alter the final size and stitch counts; use the recommended DK and 3mm hook for the sample and adjust counts if changing gauge.

Do I need to know special stitches for this pattern?

Basic knowledge of single crochet, increases, decreases and working in BLO/FLO is needed; the pattern uses common amigurumi techniques and explains where to work in loops.

How long will this project take to complete?

Most crafters will take around 12-15 hours to complete Clarence, depending on experience and how many extra details you add.

How do I stabilise the pot rim so it keeps its shape?

Cut a strip of thick felt or foam fabric stabiliser to fit the inside of the pot lip and insert it before folding and closing the rim; alternatively use strong corrugated card.

Can the vines be posed?

Yes—add doubled pipe cleaners or wire into the vines and leaves when assembling to give them structure and allow posing.