Make a sweet, handmade baby dress with this detailed crochet pattern that walks you through every stitch and assembly step. You will enjoy creating delicate frills, a neat waistband and a full skirt using DK weight cotton yarn. Clear size options and stitch counts are included so you can make the perfect fit for babies from newborn to 7-8 years. Detailed photos and step-by-step instructions guide you through finishing, edging and attaching straps and frills.
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— Sizes & Gauge :
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Sizes Waist ** Length ** Yarn Amount 0-3 months - 45 cm - 30cm - 400m; 3-6 months - 48 cm - 35cm - 430m; 6-12 months - 50 cm - 40cm - 500m; 2-3 years - 54 cm - 50cm - 560m; 4-6 years - 58 cm - 56cm - 620m; 7-8 years - 64 cm - 60cm - 700m
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DK weight yarn (3 weight), samples made using Paintbox Cotton DK and Drops Muskat Cotton. 100g Approx 225 mtrs. Gauge 4x4 square in DC = 17 sts and 10 rows. You will need a 3.50 mm and a 4.00 mm hook, yarn needle, scissors and stitch markers. **Length (measured from top of shoulder) is a guide and can be adjusted. **Yarn amounts are approximate and depend on the length of the skirt.
— Abbreviations and Stitches :
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Ch - Chain. St(s) - Stitch (es). SK - Skip. Sl St - Slip stitch. WS - Wrong Side. DC - Double Crochet (UK Treble). SC - Single Crochet (UK Double). HDC - Half Double Crochet (UK Half Treble). RS - Right Side. TR - Treble (UK Double Treble). CRTR - Crossed Treble (instruction in pattern).
— Waistband / Top (Using 3.5mm hook) :
Row 0 :
Using the 3.5mm hook, start with a chain of 81, (85, 89, 97, 105, 113).
Row 1 :
(RS) HDC into 2nd chain from the hook, HDC in each stitch along chain. (80, 84, 88, 96, 104, 112) sts. Chain 3 and turn. The Ch3 at the end of the round is creating the button loop and does not count as a stitch.
Row 2 :
(WS) *HDC, SC. Repeat from * until the end of the round. Chain 1 and turn. (80, 84, 88, 96, 104, 112) sts. The chain 1 does not count as a stitch.
Row 3 :
*HDC, SC. Repeat from * until the end of the round. Be careful not to work into the Ch 3 we have created for our button loop. Chain 3 and turn. (2nd button loop created) (80, 84, 88, 96, 104, 112) sts.
Row 4 :
*HDC, SC. Repeat from * until the end of the round. Chain 1 and turn. (80, 84, 88, 96, 104, 112) sts.
Row 5 :
Sizes 0-3, 3-6 and 6-12 only - HDC each stitch until the end of the round. (80, 84, 88) sts. Join with a Sl St to the top of the first HDC. Ch1 and turn. Follow instructions for Round 1 of skirt.
Row 5 :
Sizes 2-3, 4-6, 7-8 only - *HDC, SC. Repeat from * until the end of the round. Be careful not to work into the Ch 3 we have created for our button loop. Chain 3 and turn. (3rd button loop created) (96, 104, 112) sts.
Row 6 :
Sizes 2-3, 4-6, 7-8 only - *HDC, SC. Repeat from * until the end of the round. Chain 1 and turn. (96, 104, 112) sts.
Row 7 :
Sizes 2-3, 4-6, 7-8 only - HDC each stitch until the end of the round. (96, 104, 112) sts. Join with a Sl St to the top of the first HDC. Ch1 and turn. Follow instructions for Round 1 of skirt.
— Skirt :
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Switch your hook to a 4mm. (we will complete the remainder of the dress using the 4mm hook)
Round 1 :
Sizes 0-3 and 3-6 and 6-12 and 2-3 and 7-8 only - Work 4HDC into the first stitch. *Skip a stitch, work 4HDC into the same stitch. Repeat from * until you have 3 sts remaining. Skip the first stitch, work 5HDC 4HDC 3HDC 1HDC 4HDC into the next stitch. Skip the last stitch. Join with a Sl St to the top of the first HDC. Ch1 long/loosely and turn. 161, 168, 175, 189, 224 sts. It is important that you have the correct number of stitches at the end of this round.
Round 1 :
Size 4-6 only - Work 5HDC into the first stitch. *Skip a stitch, work 4HDC into the same stitch. Repeat from * until you have 3 sts remaining. Skip the first stitch, work 5HDC into the next stitch. Skip the last stitch. Join with a Sl St to the top of the first HDC. Ch1 long/loosely and turn. 210 sts. It is important that you have the correct number of stitches at the end of this round.
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Progress after Round 1 (see photos). The remainder of the skirt can be worked in two ways, you can work rounds of DC and add a couple of rows of detail to the bottom of the skirt or complete the skirt using the detailed stitch.
DC Round :
Work a DC into each stitch, join with a Sl St to the top of the first DC. Ch1 long/loosely and turn. (161, 168, 175, 189, 210, 224) sts. If you choose to make the whole skirt detailed then start with Detail Round 1. To complete skirt in DC work DC rounds until you have the desired length. If you wish to add rounds of detail then finish a DC round on the wrong side. Start the detail on the right side.
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For reference the detail rounds (1 and 2) measure approx. 2cm in height. Note: When you reach the end of your first ball/skein of yarn, leave the skirt uncompleted and work the bib and straps of the dress. This will allow you to measure your dress from the top of the strap and complete the skirt to the length you require.
Detail Round 1 :
Work a DC into the first stitch. (This is the first full stitch, not the base of the chain) Skip 2 sts and work a TR into each of the next 2 sts. Now go back and work a TR into the first skipped stitch. Work a TR into the second skipped stitch. (The 3rd and 4th trebles will sit in front of the 1st and 2nd trebles) From now on we will refer to this stitch as CRTR (Crossed Treble) and it will always be worked over 4 sts. After completing your first CRTR work *DC 3, CRTR. Repeat from * until you have 2 sts remaining. Work a DC into each of these stitches. Join with a Sl St to the top of the first DC. Ch1 and turn. (161, 168, 175, 189, 210, 224) sts.
Detail Round 2 :
Work a HDC into each stitch, Ch1 long/loosely and turn. (161, 168, 175, 189, 210, 224) sts.
Info :
Repeat rounds 1 and 2 until skirt reaches the desired length. Final row - Work a round of HDC on the right side of the skirt to finish/neaten the bottom hem. Fasten off.
— Creating the front bib :
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Lay the dress flat with the front facing. Mark out 26, 26, 30, 34, 38, 42 sts across the top of the waistband ensuring you have these central. You will have 27, 29, 29, 31, 33, 35 sts on each side between the marked stitch and the end of the waistband.
Info :
CRTR - Skip 2 sts and work a TR into each of the next 2 sts. Now go back and work a TR into the first skipped stitch. Work a TR into the second skipped stitch. (The 3rd and 4th trebles will sit in front of the 1st and 2nd trebles) From now on we will refer to this stitch as CRTR (Crossed Treble) and it will always be worked over 4 sts.
Row 1 :
0-3 and 3-6 months only. With the front of the dress facing you, attach yarn to the stitch marked on the right. Ch1 and DC into this stitch. Work a *CRTR, DC 3, CRTR, DC 2, CRTR, DC 3, CRTR and then work a DC into the last stitch. Ch1 and turn. 26 sts. When working the rows on the bib it helps to keep the first and last stitch of the rows marked.
Row 1 :
6-12 months only. With the front of the dress facing you, attach yarn to the stitch marked on the right. Ch1 and DC into this stitch. Work a *CRTR, DC 2, CRTR, DC 2, CRTR, DC 2, CRTR and then work a DC into the last stitch. Ch1 and turn. 30 sts. When working the rows on the bib it helps to keep the first and last stitch of the rows marked.
Row 1 :
2-3 years only. With the front of the dress facing you, attach yarn to the stitch marked on the right. Ch1 and DC into this stitch. Work a *CRTR, DC 3, CRTR, DC 3, CRTR, DC 3, CRTR and then work a DC into the last stitch. Ch1 and turn. 34 sts. When working the rows on the bib it helps to keep the first and last stitch of the rows marked.
Row 1 :
4-6 years only. With the front of the dress facing you, attach yarn to the stitch marked on the right. Ch1 and DC into this stitch. Work a *CRTR, DC 2, CRTR, DC 3, CRTR, DC 2, CRTR, DC 3, CRTR and then work a DC into the last stitch. Ch1 and turn. 38 sts. When working the rows on the bib it helps to keep the first and last stitch of the rows marked.
Row 1 :
7-8 years only. With the front of the dress facing you, attach yarn to the stitch marked on the right. Ch1 and DC into this stitch. Work a *CRTR, DC 2, CRTR, DC 3, CRTR, DC 2, CRTR, DC 3, CRTR, DC 2, CRTR and then work a DC into the last stitch. Ch1 and turn. 42 sts. When working the rows on the bib it helps to keep the first and last stitch of the rows marked.
Row 2 :
All sizes. HDC into each stitch. Ch1 long/loosely and turn. 26, 26, 30, 34, 38, 42 sts.
Row 3 :
DC into the first stitch and then repeat from * in Row 1 for the size you are making. 26, 26, 30, 34, 38, 42 sts.
Row 4 :
HDC into each stitch. Ch1 long/loosely and turn. 26, 26, 30, 34, 38, 42 sts.
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Repeat rows 3 and 4 - 2, 3, 3, 4, 5, 6 times. At the end of the last HDC row Ch1 long/loosely and turn.
— Straps :
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We are now going to create our straps. Row 1 - DC into the first stitch. CRTR. DC. Ch1 and turn. 6sts. Row 2 - HDC in each of the 6 sts, Ch1 long/loosely and turn.
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Continue to complete rows 1 and 2 until your strap (as worn) sits approx. 5, 6, 6, 6, 7, 7 cms above the bib and meets the waistband. Now work another 4 rows of HDC. These HDC rows will sit and be attached behind the waistband. When you have your strap completed, fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing to the back.
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Now for the second strap: With the RS facing you, count in 6 sts from the left side, and attach yarn. Ch 1 and repeat process as we did for the 1st strap. Ensure you complete the same number of rows on this strap. Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing to the back. Do not attach the straps until later.
— Edging :
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We will now complete a row of edging. Leaving a long tail, Ch4. (This creates our last button loop) With the RS facing insert hook and join yarn to the first stitch on the top of the waistband with a Sl St. Ch1 and SC into this stitch. Continue to work a SC into each stitch all around the edge of the top section of the dress. When working up the side of the bib and straps work 2 SC into the end of each DC row and work a SC into the end of each HDC row. When working around the corners at the end of the straps, work 3 SC into each of the corner stitches. Finish the edging row at the opposite end of the waistband. Fasten off.
— Adding the frills to the straps :
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First of all we need to pin the straps in place and place some markers which will help us to place the frills correctly. Pin straps near to the back opening, leaving enough rows to secure the strap to the inside of waistband. Place a marker into the side of the 4th stitch above the waistband. Turn over the romper and place marker in the side of the 4th stitch above the waistband. Place a marker into the side of the row just below the top of the bib (pink markers in photo). Turn the romper over and place markers into the same place on the back side. You will now have 4 markers in each strap. Unpin the straps, this is how the markers will look when in place.
Row 1 :
Leaving a long tail for sewing later, attach yarn, Ch1 and SC into the marked stitch. Now working into the FL (Front Loop Only) of each stitch, work 2xHDC into each stitch until you reach the first marker. Remove marker and work 3xHDC into this stitch and each stitch until you reach the next marker. Remove marker and work 3xHDC into this stitch. Now work 2xHDC into each stitch until you reach your last marker. Remove marker and work a SC into this last stitch. Ch 1 and turn. (From now on we will work through both loops until the frill is complete.)
Row 2 :
Work a DC into the first stitch followed by a SC into the next stitch. Continue to work a DC and then a SC alternately along the row. Ch 1 and turn.
Row 3 :
Work a SC into the first 3 sts. Work a HDC into each of the next 3 sts. Work a DC into each stitch until you have 6 sts remaining. Work a HDC into the first 3 sts and then work a SC into the last 3 sts. Ch 1 and turn.
Row 4 :
Work a SC into the first stitch followed by a DC into the next stitch. Continue to work a SC and then a DC alternately along the row. Fasten off.
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When you have completed both frills, we will attach them to the straps and then attach the straps to the back of the dress.
— Attaching frills, straps and finishing :
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Count 3 stitches from the end of the frill and using a yarn needle attach end of frill to the side of the strap. Secure the frill end onto the strap by working into the side of the 3 stitches. When secure, Fasten off. Repeat this for the remaining ends. The frills to the front should be attached just above the waistband.
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Attach the final button loop to the side of the waistband. Use the tail at the end of the chain 4 to attach. You can now sew your straps carefully to the back of the dress. Pin securely in place and then turn the dress inside out. Sew down the edge of the strap, across the bottom, opposite edge and along the top to ensure that they are secure. Weave in all your ends and sew on some pretty buttons.
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You are finished!! I hope you enjoyed making this dress.
This pretty Baby Dress pattern is perfect for gifting, special occasions or everyday wear and includes full size options from newborn to 7-8 years. The textured CRTR detail and delicate frilled straps give a handmade heirloom touch you will be proud of. Knit it in soft cotton yarn for comfort and easy care, and finish with pretty buttons for charm. 🧶👗
