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3in1 Ice Dragon Baby Blanket Amigurumi Pattern

3in1 Ice Dragon Baby Blanket Amigurumi Pattern
4.9β˜… Rating
12+ Hours Time Needed
1.9K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Multi-Day Project

A rewarding 12+ hour journeyβ€”perfect for dedicated crafters who love detailed work.

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Whimsical Buddy

Playful characters full of personality, designed to spark imagination and become cherished playtime favorites.

About This 3in1 Ice Dragon Baby Blanket Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern creates a 3in1 Ice Dragon baby blanket with a detachable amigurumi dragon head, legs, tail, horns and wings. It features DK weight yarn color changes, short rows and special stitches like bobble and dc clusters for texture. You will make separate parts (head, lids, horns, legs, toes, tail, wings and blanket) and assemble them for a charming finished piece.

3in1 Ice Dragon Baby Blanket Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Detailed step-by-step rounds, photos and tutorials guide you through shaping and assembly. Suitable for crocheters comfortable with basic amigurumi techniques and short rows.

Why You'll Love This 3in1 Ice Dragon Baby Blanket Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it brings together two of my favorite things: a cozy textured blanket and a playful amigurumi dragon. I enjoy the mix of techniques, from simple single crochet rounds to short rows and double crochet clusters, which keep the project interesting. I love how customizable the colors and size are β€” you can make it softer or bolder by changing yarn weight and hues. It always feels rewarding to sew all the parts together and see the dragon come to life on the blanket.

3in1 Ice Dragon Baby Blanket Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress 3in1 Ice Dragon Baby Blanket Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress 3in1 Ice Dragon Baby Blanket Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories 3in1 Ice Dragon Baby Blanket Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how flexible this pattern isβ€”try changing the color palette to create a pastel dragon for a baby shower or bold jewel tones for a toddler's room.

I often substitute yarn weights and adjust hook sizes to make a mini version as a keychain or a jumbo version for a large play blanket; adjust your starting chain using the (multiples of 6ch)+1 formula.

I recommend experimenting with different eye sizes and types: safety eyes, buttons, or embroidered eyes will each give a very different personality.

I like to add embroidered nostrils or tiny felt accents for cheeks to customize expression; always secure small parts well when making for young children.

For a textured effect, try using a variegated DK yarn for the leaf rows of the blanket and a solid color for the wings so the details pop.

Want posable wings or limbs? Slip in thin craft wire down the center of the wing bone or through the limb before stuffing, making sure to tape and secure the wire ends safely inside the stuffing.

I sometimes add removable outfits or tiny crocheted accessoriesβ€”scarves, hats or a tiny crownβ€”so the dragon can be dressed for play or photo shoots.

Change the bobble stitch spacing to make larger or smaller scales on the blanket; more frequent bobbles create a denser texture while fewer bobbles give a lacier look.

Try adding a faux fur trim around the blanket edge for a luxurious finish; sew it on carefully and hide the sewing threads inside the border stitches for a clean look.

If you plan to wash the finished item, choose machine-washable DK yarn and fasten off securely; remove any small detachable parts like buttons first or hand-sew them on extra securely.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

βœ— Skipping stitch markers when working in continuous rounds causes lost stitch counts; place a marker at the start of each round to maintain accuracy. βœ— Not stuffing parts evenly makes shapes lumpy and uneven; stuff gradually and shape as you go to maintain smooth contours. βœ— Carrying yarn incorrectly during color changes can cause tangles and uneven tension; weave floats neatly and carry colors when directed to keep neat edges. βœ— Ignoring the short-row instructions will alter the leg and horn shaping; follow the short-row sequence exactly and mark the turning points.

3in1 Ice Dragon Baby Blanket Amigurumi Pattern

Create a cuddly ice dragon baby blanket that doubles as a snuggly toy and a keepsake. This pattern combines amigurumi parts (head, limbs, horns, wings and tail) with a textured lattice blanket to form a unique 3-in-1 project. With clear step-by-step rounds, photo tutorials and tips for shaping, you can make a charming gift that will be treasured for years.

Intermediate 12+ Hours

Materials Needed for 3in1 Ice Dragon Baby Blanket Amigurumi Pattern

β€” Main Fabric

  • 01
    Marriner Yarns DK, Length: 300m per 100g ball
  • 02
    Turquoise - approx 3.5 balls (DK weight)
  • 03
    Pale Blue - approx 2.5 balls (DK weight)
  • 04
    White - approx 2.5 balls (DK weight)

β€” Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size 5mm
  • 02
    Crochet hook size 4mm
  • 03
    Crochet hook size 3.5mm
  • 04
    18mm blue doll safety eyes (2 pieces)
  • 05
    Toy stuffing / polyester stuffing
  • 06
    Tapestry needle for sewing
  • 07
    Stitch markers
  • 08
    Scissors
  • 09
    Pins for assembly
  • 10
    Blocking board or interlocking play mat (optional)

Progress Tracker

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β€” The Pattern :

Info :

The dragon baby blanket is made out of 22 parts: 1 x head. 2 x upper eyelids. 2 x lower eyelids. 2 x eye whites. 2 x horns. 4 x legs. 1 x tail. 2 x wing membrane. 2 x wing bones. 1 x blanket. 3 x buttons with loops.

Info :

The body parts are crocheted in the round, without turning or closing the round. Use a piece of yarn or a stitch marker to mark the beginning of each round.

β€” Head :

Round 1 :

With Turquoise and a 4mm crochet hook, ch6. 3sc in the 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 3ch, 3sc in the last ch, continue on the other side of the chain, sc in next 3ch = 12

Round 2 :

inc in next 3sts, sc in next 3sts, inc in next 3sts, sc in next 3sts = 18

Round 3 :

(sc, inc) x 3, sc in next 3sts, (inc, sc) x 3, sc in next 3sts = 24

Round 4 :

(sc in next 2sts, inc) x 3, sc in next 3sts, (sc in next 2sts, inc) x 3, sc in next 3sts = 30

Round 5 :

(sc in next 3sts, inc) x 3, sc in next 3sts, (sc in next 3sts, inc) x 3, sc in next 3sts = 36

Round 6 :

sc in next 31sts, bo, sc in next 4sts = 36

Round 7 :

sc in next 4sts, bo, sc in next 31sts = 36

Round 8 - 19 :

sc in each stitch = 36

Round 20 :

inc in next 5sts, sc in next 31sts = 41

Round 21 :

(sc, inc) x 5, sc in next 31sts = 46

Round 22 :

inc, sc in next 13sts, inc, sc in next 31sts = 48

Round 23 :

sc in next 2sts, inc, sc in next 6sts, inc, sc in next 6sts, inc, sc in next 31sts = 51

Round 24 :

(inc, sc in next 16sts) x 3 = 54

Round 25 :

(inc, sc in next 17sts) x 3 = 57

Round 26 - 33 :

sc in each stitch = 57

Round 34 :

(dec, sc in next 17sts) x 3 = 54

Round 35 :

(dec, sc in next 7sts) x 6 = 48

Round 36 :

(dec, sc in next 6sts) x 6 = 42

Round 37 :

(dec, sc in next 5sts) x 6 = 36

Round 38 :

(dec, sc in next 4sts) x 6 = 30

Round 39 :

(dec, sc in next 3sts) x 6 = 24

Round 40 :

(dec, sc in next 2sts) x 6 = 18

Round 41 :

(dec, sc in the next st) x 6 = 12

Info :

Fasten off, close the hole left and weave in the ends.

β€” The Upper Lids :

Info :

Make 2 using Turquoise and a 3.5mm crochet hook.

Row 1 :

ch15, sc in the 2nd ch from the hook, sc in the next 13ch = 14

Info :

Fasten off, leave a long tail.

β€” The Lower Lids :

Info :

Work in the round, without turning, using a piece of yarn or stitch marker to mark the end of the round. Make 2 using Turquoise and a 3.5mm crochet hook.

Round 1 :

4sc into the magic ring, pull the tail to close it shut = 4

Rounds 2 & 3 :

sc in each stitch = 4

Round 4 :

(inc, sc) x 2 = 6

Rounds 5 & 6 :

sc in each stitch = 6

Round 7 :

(inc, sc in next 2sts) x 2 = 8

Rounds 8 - 12 :

sc in each stitch = 8

Round 13 :

(dec, sc in next 2sts) x 2 = 6

Rounds 14 & 15 :

sc in each stitch = 6

Info :

Fasten off, close the hole and leave a long tail. The lids are not stuffed.

β€” The Upper Lids (White) :

Info :

Make 2 using White and a 3.5mm crochet hook.

Row 1 :

ch2, 3sc in the 2nd ch from the hook, turn = 3

Row 2 :

sc in each 3sts, turn = 3

Row 3 :

inc, sc, inc, turn = 5

Row 4 :

sc in each sts, turn = 5

Row 5 :

inc, sc in next 3 sts, inc, turn = 7

Rows 6 - 8 :

sc in each sts, turn = 7

Row 9 :

dec, sc in next 3sts, dec, turn = 5

Row 10 :

sc in each sts, turn = 5

Row 11 :

dec, sc, dec = 3

Row 12 :

sc3tog = 1

Info :

Fasten off, leave a long tail.

β€” The Horns :

Info :

Except for the Short Rows, the horns are crocheted in the round, without turning, using a piece of yarn or stitch marker to mark the beginning of each round. Make 2 using White and a 4mm crochet hook.

Round 1 :

make a magic ring, 4sc into the magic ring, pull the tail to close it shut = 4

Round 2 :

(sc, inc) x 2 = 6

Round 3 :

sc in each stitch = 6

Round 4 :

(sc in next 2sts, inc) x 2 = 8

Round 5 :

sc in each stitch = 8

Round 6 :

(sc in next 3sts, inc) x 2 = 10

Rounds 7 & 8 :

sc in each stitch = 10

Row 9 Short Row (RS) :

sc in next 5sts, turn = 5

Row 10 Short Rows (WS) :

sc in next 5sts, turn = 5

Round 11 :

sc in next 5sts of the previous short row, sc in the next 5sts of round 8 = 10

Round 12 :

sc in each stitch = 10

Round 13 :

(sc in next 4sts, inc) x 2 = 12

Round 14 :

sc in each stitch = 12

Round 15 :

(sc in next 5sts, inc) x 2 = 14

Round 16 :

sc in each stitch = 14

Round 17 :

(sc in next 6sts, inc) x 2 = 16

Round 18 :

sc in each stitch = 16

Round 19 :

sc in next 16sts, continue to single crochet in next 9sts = 16

Info :

We are moving the starting stitch by 9sts forward, the stitch count remains the same, but the start of the round moved to the other side. Mark the last sc you made as the last in the round and continue with the next round from there.

Row 20 Short Row (RS) :

sc in next 8sts, turn = 8

Row 21 Short Rows (WS) :

sc in next 8sts, turn = 8

Round 22 :

sc in next 8sts of the previous short row, sc in the next 8sts of round 19 = 16

Round 23 :

(sc in next 7sts, inc) x 2 = 18

Round 24 :

sc in each stitch = 18

Row 25 Short Row (RS) :

sc in next 9sts, turn = 9

Row 26 Short Rows (WS) :

sc in next 9sts, turn = 9

Round 27 :

sc in next 9sts of the previous short row, sc in the next 9sts of round 24 = 18

Round 28 :

(sc in next 8sts, inc) x 2 = 20

Row 29 Short Row (RS) :

sc in next 10sts, turn = 10

Row 30 Short Rows (WS) :

sc in next 10sts, turn = 10

Round 31 :

sc in next 10sts of the previous short row, sc in the next 10sts of round 28 = 20

Round 32 :

(sc in next 9sts, inc) x 2 = 22

Round 33 :

sc in each stitch = 22

Round 34 Short Row (RS) :

sc in next 11sts, turn = 11

Round 35 Short Rows (WS) :

sc in next 11sts, turn = 11

Rounds 36 & 37 :

sc in each stitch = 22

Info :

Fasten off leaving a long tail. Stuff the horn firmly.

β€” The Legs :

Info :

Except for the Short Rows, the legs are crocheted in the round, without turning, using a piece of yarn or stitch marker to mark the beginning of each round. Make 4 using Turquoise & White and a 3.5mm crochet hook. The 3 toes are crocheted separately and later joined to continue with the foot.

β€” The Toes :

Info :

Make 3 toes. Fasten off the yarn on 2 toes, but leave the yarn attached on one toe.

β€” Joining The Toes :

Round 9 :

Pick up Toe 1 & Toe 2, sc in the next 7sts of Toe 2, sc in the next 14sts of Toe 3, sc in next 7sts of Toe 2, sc in next 14sts of Toe 1 = 42

β€” The Foot & Leg :

Round 10 :

(dec, sc in next 19sts) x 2 = 40

Round 11 :

(dec, sc in next 18sts) x 2 = 38

Round 12 :

(dec, sc in next 17sts) x 2 = 36

Round 13 :

(dec, sc in next 16sts) x 2 = 34

Round 14 :

sc in next 12sts (continue from this point with short rows 14A-14E)

14A - Short Row (RS) :

sc in next 16sts, turn = 16

14B - Short Row (WS) :

sc in next 16sts, turn = 16

14C - Short Row (RS) :

sc in next 16sts, turn = 16

14D - Short Row (WS) :

sc in next 16sts, turn = 16

14E - Short Row (RS) :

sc in next 16sts = 16 (continue from this point with row 14), sc4tog along the edge of the short rows (see tutorial below), sc in next 5sts = 34

Note :

To crochet sc4tog, pull 4 loops along the edge of the short rows and round 13, yo and pull through all 5 loops on hook.

Round 15 :

sc in next 11sts, sc4tog [just like the sc4tog from round 14, but in reverse - 1 loop in the next stitch (stitch unworked on round 14), 1 loop in the next stitch (stitch already worked in on round 14), 1 loop in the Short Row 14B and 1 loop in Short Row 14D], sc in next 22sts = 34

Round 16 :

sc in each sts = 34

Round 17 :

sc in next 13sts (continue from this point with short rows 17A-17E)

17A - Short Row (RS) :

sc in next 17sts, turn = 17

17B - Short Row (WS) :

sc in next 17sts, turn = 17

17C - Short Row (RS) :

sc in next 17sts, turn = 17

17D - Short Row (WS) :

sc in next 17sts, turn = 17

17E - Short Row (RS) :

sc in next 17sts = 17 (continue from this point with row 17), sc4tog along the edge of the short rows (see tutorial below), sc in next 3sts = 34

Round 18 :

sc in next 12sts, sc4tog (1 loop in 17D, 1 loop in 17B, 1 loop in last worked stitch of round 17, 1 loop in the first unworked stitch of round 17), sc in next 21sts = 34

Round 19 :

sc in next 13sts, (dec, sc in next 3sts) x 4, sc = 30

Round 20 :

sc in each sts = 30

Round 21 :

(dec, sc in next 3sts) x 6 = 24

Round 22 :

(inc, sc in next 11sts) x 2 = 26

Round 23 :

(inc, sc in next 12sts) x 2 = 28

Round 24 :

(inc, sc in next 13sts) x 2 = 30

Rounds 25 & 26 :

sc in each sts = 30

Round 27 :

inc, sc in next 29sts = 31

Rounds 28 & 29 :

sc in each sts = 31

Round 30 :

sc in next 15sts, inc, sc in next 15sts = 32

Rounds 31 & 32 :

sc in each sts = 32

Info :

Start filling up the leg. Don't over fill or stretch the stitches.

Round 33 :

inc, sc in next 31sts = 33

Rounds 34 & 35 :

sc in each sts = 33

Round 36 :

sc in next 16sts, inc, sc in next 16sts = 34

Rounds 37 & 38 :

sc in each sts = 34

Round 39 :

(dec, sc in next 15sts) x 2 = 32

Round 40 :

(dec, sc in next 6sts) x 4 = 28

Round 41 :

(dec, sc in next 5sts) x 4 = 24

Round 42 :

(dec, sc in next 2sts) x 6 = 18

Round 43 :

(dec, sc) x 6 = 12

Info :

Finish filling up the leg with toy stuffing. Fill the leg part lightly and flatten it slightly. Fasten off and leave a long tail.

β€” The Tail :

Info :

Work in the round, without turning, using a piece of yarn or a stitch marker to mark the beginning of each round. Make 1 with Turquoise and a 3.5mm crochet hook.

Round 1 :

make a magic ring, 4sc into the magic ring, pull the tail to close it shut = 4

Round 2 :

inc, sc in next 3sts = 5

Rounds 3 & 4 :

sc in each stitch = 5

Round 5 :

inc, sc in next 4sts = 6

Rounds 6 & 7 :

sc in each stitch = 6

Round 8 :

inc, sc in next 5sts = 7

Rounds 9 & 10 :

sc in each stitch = 7

Round 11 :

inc, sc in next 6sts = 8

Rounds 12 & 13 :

sc in each stitch = 8

Round 14 :

inc, sc in next 7sts = 9

Rounds 15 & 16 :

sc in each stitch = 9

Round 17 :

inc, sc in next 8sts = 10

Rounds 18 & 19 :

sc in each stitch = 10

Round 20 :

inc, sc in next 9sts = 11

Rounds 21 & 22 :

sc in each stitch = 11

Round 23 :

inc, sc in next 10sts = 12

Rounds 24 & 25 :

sc in each stitch = 12

Round 26 :

inc, sc in next 11sts = 13

Rounds 27 & 28 :

sc in each stitch = 13

Round 29 :

inc, sc in next 12sts = 14

Rounds 30 & 31 :

sc in each stitch = 14

Round 32 :

inc, sc in next 13sts = 15

Rounds 33 & 34 :

sc in each stitch = 15

Round 35 :

inc, sc in next 14sts = 16

Rounds 36 - 38 :

sc in each stitch = 16

Round 39 :

inc, sc in next 15sts = 17

Info :

Fasten off leaving a long tail. Continue shaping the tail to a tapered end as shown in the photos.

β€” The Wing Membrane :

Info :

The wing membranes are crocheted with Turquoise and Pale Blue colors, using a 4mm crochet hook. Make 2 pieces. Start with Pale Blue.

Row 1 :

ch15, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc, hdc, dc in next 11chs, turn = 14

Row 2 :

(all stitches crocheted in the back loops only (BLO)): (2dc in next st) x 2, dc in next 9sts, hdc, sc in last 2sts, ch1, turn = 16

Row 3 :

(all stitches crocheted in the back loops only (BLO)): sc in next 2sts, hdc, dc in next 11sts, (2dc in next st) x 2, turn = 18

Row 4 :

(all stitches crocheted in the back loops only (BLO)): (2dc in next st) x 2, dc in next 13sts, hdc, sc in last 2sts, ch1, turn = 20

Row 5 :

(all stitches crocheted in the back loops only (BLO)): sc in next 2sts, hdc, dc in next 15sts, (2dc in next st) x 2, turn = 22

Info :

Change colors to Turquoise (don't cut the Pale Blue yarn, just carry it over to the next color change).

Row 6 :

(all stitches crocheted in the back loops only (BLO)): ch1, sc in all 22sts, ch1, turn = 22

Row 7 :

sc in next 2sts, hdc in next 20sts, turn = 22

Info :

Change colors to Pale Blue and cut the Turquoise yarn.

Row 8 :

(all stitches crocheted in the back loops only (BLO)): dc2tog x 2, dc in next 15sts, hdc, sc in last 2sts, ch1, turn = 20

Row 9 :

(all stitches crocheted in the back loops only (BLO)): sc in next 2sts, hdc, dc in next 13sts, dc2tog x 2, turn = 18

Row 10 :

(all stitches crocheted in the back loops only (BLO)): dc2tog x 2, dc in next 11sts, hdc, sc in last 2sts, ch1, turn = 16

Row 11 :

(all stitches crocheted in the back loops only (BLO)): sc in next 2sts, hdc, dc in next 9sts, dc2tog x 2, turn = 14

Row 12 :

(all stitches crocheted in the back loops only (BLO)): 3dc in next sts, 2dc in next st, dc in next 9sts, hdc, sc in last 2sts, ch1, turn = 17

Row 13 :

(all stitches crocheted in the back loops only (BLO)): sc in next 2sts, hdc, dc in next 12sts, 2dc in next st, 3dc in last st, turn = 20

Row 14 :

(all stitches crocheted in the back loops only (BLO)): 3dc in next sts, 2dc in next st, dc in next 15sts, hdc, sc in last 2sts, ch1, turn = 23

Row 15 :

(all stitches crocheted in the back loops only (BLO)): sc in next 2sts, hdc, dc in next 18sts, 2dc in next st, 3dc in last st, turn = 26

Row 16 :

(all stitches crocheted in the back loops only (BLO)): ch1, sc in all 26sts, ch1, turn = 26

Row 17 :

sc in next 2sts, hdc in next 24sts, turn = 26

Info :

Change colors to Pale Blue and cut the Turquoise yarn.

Row 18 :

(all stitches crocheted in the back loops only (BLO)): dc2tog x 2, dc in next 19sts, hdc, sc in last 2sts, ch1, turn = 24

Row 19 :

(all stitches crocheted in the back loops only (BLO)): sc in next 2sts, hdc, dc in next 17sts, dc2tog x 2, turn = 22

Row 20 :

(all stitches crocheted in the back loops only (BLO)): dc2tog x 2, dc in next 15sts, hdc, sc in last 2sts, ch1, turn = 20

Row 21 :

(all stitches crocheted in the back loops only (BLO)): sc in next 2sts, hdc, dc in next 13sts, dc2tog x 2, turn = 18

Row 22 :

(all stitches crocheted in the back loops only (BLO)): (2dc in next st) X 2, dc in next 13sts, hdc, sc in last 2sts, ch1, turn = 20

Row 23 :

(all stitches crocheted in the back loops only (BLO)): sc in next 2sts, hdc, dc in next 15sts, (2dc in next st) X 2, turn = 22

Row 24 :

(all stitches crocheted in the back loops only (BLO)): (2dc in next st) X 2, dc in next 17sts, hdc, sc in last 2sts, ch1, turn = 24

Row 25 :

Join the Turquoise yarn in the last stitch you made in the wing membrane (row 25). Sc along row 25, making 1sc in each st until you have 1st left in that side. Make 3sc in that last stitch and now you will be crocheting along the edge of the rows, on the side that starts with sc stitches.

Info :

Sc2tog, pulling a loop in each row. You will make one sc2tog for each 2 rows until you have 1 row left, sc in that row (you will end up with 13sts). Now you will crochet along the bottom of the wing membrane. Make 3sc in the first st on that side, sc in each stitch along that side until you have 1 stitch left, 3sc in the last stitch.

Info :

You reached the 2 Turquoise rows: sc in first Turquoise row, ch3, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch, sc in 2nd Turquoise row. You reached the Pale Blue section between the Turquoise rows, make (2sc in dc post, sc between 2 rows, 2sc in dc post) x 4. Again, you reached the 2 Turquoise rows: sc in first Turquoise row, ch3, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch, sc in 2nd Turquoise row.

Info :

You reached the Pale Blue section after the Turquoise rows, make (2sc in dc post, sc between 2 rows, 2sc in dc post) x 4. You have reached the first stitch where you joined the Turquoise yarn, make 2sc in the same stitch you have joined, sl st in the first sc made to complete the round.

β€” The Wings :

Info :

Repeat the same steps for the second wing membrane, making sure they are positioned symmetrically (you will crochet on the wrong side of one wing and the right side of the other).

β€” The Wing Bones :

Round 1 :

make a magic ring, 8sc into the magic ring, pull the tail to close it shut = 8

Rounds 2 - 71 :

sc in each st, fasten off and close off the hole after finishing stuffing = 8

Info :

Fill the wing bone firmly with toy stuffing as you crochet the rows.

β€” The Blanket :

Info :

The pattern requires (multiples of 6ch) + 1ch. Using a 5mm crochet hook and Pale Blue yarn, ch103.

Row 1 :

Lattice Row - Make 2dc in 5th ch from hook, *ch1, sk2, 2dc in the following ch*, repeat from * until you have 2ch left, sk1, dc in last ch.

Row 2 :

Leaf Row - Ch1 (does not count as a st), turn and sc in first st. Turn back to the right side *in the next cluster, make a leaf (as explained in the tutorial above, including the sl st in the next cluster)*, repeat until you have one cluster and 1dc left (the dc is the ch3 you skipped on row 1). In the last cluster make a leaf, but this time don't sl st at the end, instead, sc in the 3rd ch of ch3 that counts as a dc (count from the bottom up). Change colors to Turquoise.

Row 3 :

Lattice Row - Ch4 (counts as 1dc + 1ch). Make 2dc in-between the 2dc of the following cluster. *Ch2, 2dc in-between the following cluster*, repeat from * until you have crocheted in the last cluster in the row. Ch1, dc in the sc stitch below you made at the beginning of row 2.

Row 4 :

Leaf Row - Ch1 (does not count as a st), turn and sc in first st, ch1, sl st in-between the 2dc of the first cluster. Turn back to the right side *in the next cluster, make a leaf (as explained in the tutorial above, including the sl st in the next cluster)*, repeat until you have sl st in the very last cluster. Ch1, sc in the 3rd ch of ch3 that counts as a dc (count from the bottom up).

Info :

Change colors to White and repeat the lattice and leaf rows, alternating colors Pale Blue, Turquoise, White every 2 rows until blanket measures approximately 90cm long. My blanket has 49 rows of leaves (98 rows if you count the lattice rows). Finish your blanket in Pale Blue and on a row that starts with a leaf (like row 6). Once you finish the blanket, bring the white yarn to the top, pull it through the loop on the hook and cut the Pale Blue and Turquoise yarns. Weave in the ends.

β€” The Blanket Border :

Round 1 :

Crocheting Along The Top Of The Blanket: ch1 (does not count as a stitch), 3sc in the first st to form the corner, *2sc in the ch2 space, 1sc between the 2dc of the cluster below*, repeat from * until you have crocheted in the last chain space (which is a 1ch space), 3sc in that last stitch to create the corner.

Crocheting Along The Side Of The Blanket :

*2sc around the dc post, 1sc in the sc row, 2sc around the next dc post*, repeat from * until you have reached the bottom of the blanket (NOTE: you are skipping the sc rows that start with a leaf).

Crocheting Along The Bottom Of The Blanket :

3sc in the first ch of the row to form the corner, sc in each chain along the base until you have 1ch left, 3sc in the last ch to form the other corner.

Crocheting Along The Side Of The Blanket :

2dc around the dc post, *2sc around the dc post, 1sc in the sc row, 2sc around the next dc post*, repeat from * until you have reached the top of the blanket (NOTE: you are skipping the sc rows that start with a leaf), sl st into the first sc you have made to close the round.

Round 2 :

hdc around the border, making 1hdc in each stitch and 3hdc in each corner stitch (the 2nd of the 3dc you made in round 1). Fasten off, weave in all the ends. Your blanket is now complete.

β€” The Loops :

Loop :

make a slip knot and pull it through the stitch, ch5, sl st in the next stitch, fasten off, weave in the ends. Crochet 3 loops on the blanket edge with White and a 3.5mm hook: 1 in each corner of the same long side and one in the middle, between the 2 you just made.

β€” The Buttons :

Info :

Make 3 in White using a 3.5mm crochet hook.

Button :

make a magic ring, 8hdc in the magic ring, sl st, fasten off.

β€” Assembling The Wing :

Info :

Pin the wing membrane to the bone from the tip of the wing (where you finished row 25 of the wing) to the middle of the bottom row (middle of row 1). Sew the wing membrane to the bone.

β€” Step Tutorials :

Step 1 :

First Half Of The Leaf - Place your work with the right side up, vertically with the end towards you and the hook away from you. Make 5dc around the first dc post of the cluster.

Step 2 :

The Pointy Tip (Picot Stitch) - Once the first half of the leaf is crocheted, rotate your work 90 degrees to the right until it is horizontally placed in front of you with the top of the work facing you. Ch3, sl st in the base stitch (NOT the base chain) by inserting the hook through both loops at the base.

Step 3 :

The Second Half Of The Leaf - After you make the pointy tip, rotate again 90 degrees to the right until the work is vertically placed in front of you, with the end of the row away from you. Make 5dc around the second dc post in the cluster.

Step 4 :

Attaching The Leaf To The Lattice - We will go one extra step and attach the end of the leaf to the latticework behind it. Turn your work around again, this time with the wrong side facing you and the top of the work pointing up. Sl st in between the 2 double crochet stitches of the next cluster. Your pointy leaf is complete.

β€” Assembling The Head :

Info :

Place the eyes between rows 7 & 8 on the eye whites, in the middle of the row. Make sure the eye whites are facing opposite each other before placing the eyes, not in the same direction.

Info :

Pin the eye whites to the head, making sure you push the tip of the eye inside the head. The eye whites are placed on each side of the head with the tip reaching Row 20 (where the raised forehead starts), with the back ends slightly angled up.

Info :

Temporarily pin the horns between the eyes, right at the back end of them, to make sure everything looks good. When everything looks right, start sewing the pieces to the head using the long tails. Sew the eye whites first. Continue with the upper lids and sew through only one layer of it (don't sew through both sides of the upper lid, we want it to stitch out and give a 3D effect). Sew the lower lids next.

Assembly Instructions

  • Pin the eye whites to the head between rows 7 and 8 and sew them in place, making sure the eyes sit with the tip reaching Row 20 of the head.
  • Temporarily pin and adjust the horns and upper lids to check symmetry, then sew the horns to the top of the head and sew the upper and lower eyelids in position using long tails.
  • Attach the wings by pinning the wing membrane to the wing bone, then sew the bone to the membrane and sew the assembled wings to the blanket/head as shown in photos.
  • Sew the legs and tail to the blanket: position legs at the blanket edge and the tail centrally, then whipstitch securely through the blanket backing and stuffing base.
  • Sew buttons to the opposite side of the loops on the blanket: 2 in the corners and one midway between them, making sure the center button is opposite the middle loop.
  • Pin and sew the head to the blanket at the designated top center position using a whipstitch and a long tail for secure attachment.

Important Notes

  • πŸ’‘Use stitch markers to keep track of your rounds and where short rows begin and end for accurate shaping.
  • πŸ’‘Stuff parts firmly but avoid overstuffing to prevent stretching and distortion of the stitches.
  • πŸ’‘Weave in yarn tails as you go to keep the final assembly neat and avoid long finishing sessions.

This 3in1 Ice Dragon baby blanket mixes sweet amigurumi charm with a cozy textured blanket for a truly special keepsake. Make it in your favorite blues and whites or swap colors to match a nursery theme. Perfect as a generous handmade gift that doubles as playtime magic. πŸ§Άβœ¨β„οΈ

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The blanket measures approximately 95cm tall x 80cm wide and the finished dragon head and parts are sized to match using the recommended DK yarn and hook sizes.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can use different yarn weights but this will affect the final size and gauge; adjust hook sizes and stitch counts accordingly to keep proportions similar.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate β€” basic knowledge of single crochet, increases, decreases, short rows and working in the back loop only is recommended.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crafters will spend 12+ hours on the full project, depending on experience and how many parts you crochet at once.

Are the wings and bones stuffed or solid?

The wing bones are lightly stuffed to provide structure while the wing membranes are flat pieces crocheted in strips and then sewn to the bones.