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Virelle Mandala Pattern

Virelle Mandala Pattern
4.4β˜… Rating
8-10 Hours Time Needed
3.7K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

All-Day Adventure

Requires 8-10 hours, ideal for a full day of immersive crocheting.

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Cozy Accent

A warm touch for your space that transforms ordinary corners into inviting nooks filled with handmade charm.

About This Virelle Mandala Pattern

This pattern teaches you to crochet the Virelle Mandala β€” a textured circular mandala designed for a 70 cm ring or blocking. It uses front-post and back-loop stitches, clusters, and optional beads for delicate accents. The pattern includes charts and step-by-step row instructions to guide you through each stage of the mandala.

Virelle Mandala Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Worked in Cotton DK with a 2.5 mm hook, this mandala creates an elegant wall hanging perfect for home decor. Beads are optional and sewn on after finishing to enhance the design.

Why You'll Love This Virelle Mandala Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it transforms simple stitches into a richly textured mandala that feels both delicate and dramatic. I enjoy how the front-post stitches create deep texture and petals that really pop when blocked. Adding beads gives the piece a subtle, elegant shine that elevates the final result. Making this mandala is relaxing yet rewarding β€” watching the rounds grow into a full, framed decoration always feels magical.

Virelle Mandala Pattern step 1 - construction progress Virelle Mandala Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Virelle Mandala Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Virelle Mandala Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how easy it is to customize the Virelle Mandala by changing yarn colorways; try an ombre gradient or two contrasting colors for bold impact.

If you want a softer look, I swap Cotton DK for a lighter fingering-weight yarn and a smaller hook to make a delicate, airy mandala.

For a chunky, cozy version, I sometimes use a bulky cotton or acrylic yarn with a larger hook to create a more sculptural wall piece.

I often add beads in different sizes and finishes β€” natural wood, pearl, or metallic β€” to change the mandala's mood and reflectivity.

To make a seasonal version, I pick holiday colors or pastels and add little crocheted motifs sewn onto the mandala after finishing.

I sometimes add a fabric backing or felt circle to the back of the mandala for a clean finish and easier mounting.

Try mounting the mandala in different frames: a metal hoop, wooden embroidery hoop, or even a repurposed wreath form to alter the final presentation.

I also experiment with slightly altering stitch counts in outer rounds to subtly change the diameter without reshaping inner rounds.

If you enjoy mixed media, try incorporating macrame fringe or tassels hanging from the bottom of the mounted mandala for a boho touch.

Don't be afraid to combine chart reading with the written row instructions: I sometimes write my own annotations on the chart to reflect my chosen color changes or bead placement, which helps when repeating the pattern later.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

βœ— Skipping the chart or diagrams can make the stitch placement confusing; always refer to the chart symbols overview and the diagrams to confirm where to place stitches. βœ— Not working in the correct loops (front or back loops) will distort the texture and leaf shapes; check the row notes carefully and work strictly in front loops or back loops as instructed. βœ— Missing the slip stitch joins or finishing chains can leave gaps or misaligned rounds; end each row as instructed and count stitches frequently to stay on track. βœ— Forgetting to block the mandala before mounting can stop the design from opening fully; block or use a 70 cm ring to shape the mandala and reveal the stitch details. βœ— Sewing beads in before finishing can get in the way of crocheting; only sew the beads onto the finished and blocked mandala as recommended in the notes.

Virelle Mandala Pattern

Create a stunning Virelle Mandala wall hanging with this detailed crochet pattern. You'll work with front-post and back-loop techniques, chart symbols, and optional bead accents to create a textured, decorative piece. The pattern includes clear row-by-row instructions and diagrams so you can follow along confidently. Perfect for adding a handmade, elegant touch to your home decor.

Intermediate 8-10 Hours

Materials Needed for Virelle Mandala Pattern

β€” Main Fabric

  • 01
    Cotton DK yarn (suitable for hook 2.5 mm / US size C), approximately 800 meters in color 'Glass' (used for the sample)
  • 02
    Optional wooden beads: 10 mm (8 pieces), 12 mm (8 pieces), 15 mm (8 pieces)
  • 03
    70 cm ring for mounting or blocking materials to shape the mandala

β€” Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size 2.5 mm (US size C)
  • 02
    Scissors
  • 03
    Tapestry needle
  • 04
    Stitch markers (recommended)
  • 05
    Blocking tools or 70 cm ring
  • 06
    Optional: wooden beads (10 mm, 12 mm, 15 mm) and yarn needle for sewing beads

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β€” Required materials and information :

Infos :

This is the yarn I used for the Virelle mandala: Yarn for hook 2.5 mm (US size C). I used Cotton DK from 'Budget Yarn' in the color Glass. I used about 800 meters. Optional: wooden beads: 10, 12 and 15 mm (each size 8x). 70 cm ring or blocking materials. You also need: Crochet hook 2.5 mm (US size C). Scissors. Tapestry needle.

Infos :

Notes about this pattern: 1. The beads in the center of the mandala are sewed on after the mandala is finished. You can find the description at the end of the pattern. 2. Beads are optional! If you prefer to work without beads, simply work a normal dc (or fp-dc) instead of a 'dc with bead'. 3. Tip: if you find this pattern difficult, there is a video version available, which can be very helpful! You can find the 'video only' here: https://www.etsy.com/nl/listing/1439187917/aleen-video-mandala-haakpatroon-virelle 4. There are charts in this pattern, to show how you need to work with the stitches. The previous rows are always shown as light grey, meaning that the top row in the chart is always the current row. For an overview of all stitches shown, find the 'chart symbols overview' at the beginning of this pattern. Also keep in mind that, for example in row 3, row 2 is not shown (because this row is worked in the front loops of the same stitches you use in row 3 to work in the back loops).

β€” Crochet abbreviations used in this pattern (US terms) :

Infos :

st = stitch. ch = chain. slst = slipstitch. fp-sl.st = front post slip stitch. sc = single crochet. fp-sc = front post single crochet. dc = dc. tr = treble crochet. fp-dc = front post dc. clst = cluster stitch. pic = picot. fp-dc2tog = crochet together 2 front post double crochet. (stitches that are crocheted together are written as: the stitch, then the number of stitches that are crocheted together, and then the 'tog' which is the short term for crocheting together).

β€” Explanation stitches :

Infos :

Front post stitches: When you make a front post stitch, the only difference compared to a 'normal' stitch is that you insert from front to back in between the first en second stitch from the row below, and then from back to front in between the second and third stitches. This means you insert around the stitch, instead of through the v-shape in the top of the stitch. Back post stitches: When you make a back post stitch, you insert your hook from back to front in between the first and second stitches of the row below, and then from front to back again between the second and third stitches. This means you insert around the stitch, instead of through the v-shape in the top of the stitch. Chain: yarn over, through the loop. Slip stitch: insert, pull up a loop, through the loop. Single crochet: insert, pull up a loop, yarn over, through both loops. Double crochet: yarn over, insert, pull up a loop, yarn over, through 2 loops, yarn over, through 2 loops. Treble crochet: yarn over 2x, insert, pull up a loop, yarn over, through 2 loops (3 loops on the hook), yarn over, through 2 loops (2 loops on the hook), yarn over, through 2 loops.

Infos :

Front post double crochet: yarn over, insert from front to back in between the first and second stitch from the row below, and then from back to front in between the second and third stitches. Pull up a loop, yarn over, through 2 loops, yarn over, through 2 loops. Crochet together front post dc: yarn over, insert (see previous explanation), pull up a loop, through 2 loops, yarn over, insert in next stitch, pull up a loop, yarn over, through 2 loops, yarn over, through 3 loops. When crocheting together fp-dc that already has been crocheted together in the previous row, you insert your hook in the two loops in the top of the stitch (as pictured in the photo). Picot: chain 3, slip stitch in the first chain. Crochet a bead with dc: yarn over, bead on the hook, insert, pull up a loop, yarn over through the first loop and bead, yarn over and through the remaining 3 loops. Cluster stitch: work 4 dc in the same stitch (sometimes it's made with fp-dc's, if so this is mentioned in the pattern). Take out the hook (make sure you make the loop big enough) and insert the hook in the first dc. Put the loop on your hook again and pull through.

β€” Chart symbols overview :

Infos :

See the chart symbols overview image in the pattern for symbol meanings. Symbols shown include: worked in front loops only, worked in back loops only, magic ring, arrow pointing to a stitch or space, single crochet, 2 single crochet in 1 stitch, sc, ch 3 and sc in 1 stitch, chain, picot with slip stitch, double crochet, 2 double crochet in 1 stitch, crochet together 2 double crochet, a chain 3 and double crochet in 1 stitch, a bead with a double crochet, double crochet, chain 3 and double crochet in 1 stitch, treble crochet, cluster stitch with 4 double crochet, front post double crochet, crochet together 2 front post double crochet, 2 front post double crochet in 1 stitch, 3 front post double crochet in 1 stitch, front post double crochet and a chain 3, cluster stitch where you work with front post double crochet (the first stitch is now a fp-slst and ch 3). Refer to the image for exact symbols used in charts.

β€” The pattern :

Row 1 :

Start with a magic ring. Chain 3 (counts as dc), and work 11 dc in the ring. Slst in 3rd chain.

Row 2 :

In this row: front loops only. You work in the front loops from row 1. In every stitch (so also in the slst from row 1): slst, ch 2, 2 dc, ch 2, slst. End with a slst in the first chain from this row. You have 12 leaves.

Row 3 :

In this row: back loops only. You're working in the back loops of row 1. Slst in next. Chain 3 (counts as dc), dc in same. *2 dc in every stitch.* Repeat instructions between * until the end of the row. Slst in 3rd chain from the beginning of this row. You now have a total of 24 dc.

Row 4 :

In this row: front loops only. You're working in the front loops of row 3. *In next stitch: [slst, ch 2, dcl. In the next: [dc, ch 2 and slst].* Repeat instructions between * until the end of the row. Slst in first chain from the beginning of this row. You have 12 leaves.

Row 5 :

In this row: back loops only. You're working in the back loops of row 3. Slst in next. Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in same. 1 dc in next. *2 dc in next, 1 dc in next.* Repeat instructions between * until the end of the row. Slst in 3rd chain from the beginning of this row. You have 36 dc.

Row 6 :

In this row: work in the front loops only. You're working in the front loops of row 5. *In next: [slst, ch 2, dc]. In next: 2 tr. In next: [dc, ch 2, slst].* Repeat instructions between * until the end of the row. Slst in first chain from the beginning of this row. You have 12 leaves.

Row 7 :

In this row: back loops only. You're working in the back loops from row 5. Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in next, 2 dc in next. *2 dc (1 in each), 2 dc in next.* Repeat instructions between * until the end of the row. You now have 48 dc.

Row 8 :

In this row: front loops only. You're working in the front loops from row 7. *In next: [slst, ch 2, dc]. In next: 2 tr. In next: 2 tr. In next: [dc, ch 2, slst].* Repeat instructions between * until the end of the row. Slst in the first chain from the beginning of this row. You have 12 leaves.

Row 9 :

In this row: back loops only. You're working in the back loops from row 7. Slst in next. Ch 3 (counts as dc), 2 dc (1 in each). In next 2 dc (so 2 dc in 1). *3 dc (1 in each), 2 dc in 1.* Repeat instructions between * until the end of the row. Slst in 3rd chain from the beginning of this row. You have a total of 60 dc.

Row 10 :

Ch 1, sc in same st. Crochet 3 more sc and then 2 sc in next (2 in 1). *4 sc, 2 sc in next st.* Repeat instructions between * until the end of the row. You now have 72 sts. Skip ch and end with slst in first sc.

Row 11 :

Ch 1, sc in same st. Crochet 3 more sc, in next: [1 sc, ch 3, 1 sc]. *8 sc, in the next: [1 sc, 3 ch, and 1 sc].* Repeat instructions between * and # until the end of the row. You have 4 sts left at the end of the row; 1 sc in each. Skip the chain from the beginning of this row, end with a slst in the first sc.

Row 12 :

2 slst, ch 3. dc in next. Then ch 1, in the chain space: [1 dc + 3 ch + 1 dc]. Ch 1, skip 1 st. *3 dc, ch 1, fp-dc in next 2 sts (insert hook in the next stitch, to the back side, and to the front again through the next), ch 1, 3 dc. Ch 1, skip 1 st, in the chain space: [1 dc + 3 ch + 1 dc]. Ch 1, skip 1 st.* Repeat instructions between * until the end of the row. Then work: 3 dc, ch 1, fp-dc in next 2 sts, ch 1, 1 dc, and end with slst in the 3rd ch.

Info :

The yellow circle shows in which sc you need to work the fp-dc.

Row 13 :

Ch 3 (counts as dc). *Ch 2, skip 1 st, fp-dc in dc. 8 dc in chain space, fp-dc in dc. Ch 2, skip 1 st. 2 dc. Chain 1, fp-dc, ch 1. 2 dc.* Repeat instructions from * until the end of the row. End with a ch 2, skip 1 st, 2 dc, chain 1, fp-dc, ch 1, dc. Then a slst in the 3rd chain from the beginning of this row.

Row 14 :

2 slst. Then fp-slst in the fp-dc from the previous row, ch 3 (counts as fp-dc). Work another fp-dc in the same st. 8 dc. 2 fp-dc in 1. Ch 1. Skip 1 st. *1 dc, ch 1, fp-dc, ch 1, 1 dc. Skip 1 st. Ch 1, 2 fp-dc in 1. 8 dc. 2 fp-dc in 1. Ch 1, skip 1 st.* Repeat instructions from * until the end of the row. End with 1 dc, ch 1, fp-dc, ch 1, 1 dc, ch 1, then work slst in the 3rd ch.

Row 15 :

Fp-slst, ch 3 (counts as fp-dc). 2 fp-dc in next. Sc between 1st and 2nd dc's. Then ch 1, and work a sc between the next two dc's. Repeat this until you have a total of 7 sc with a chain between each of the sc's. 2 fp-dc in 1, fp-dc. *ch 2, skip 1 st, fp-dc in fp-dc from previous row, skip 1 st, ch 2. Fp-dc, 2 fp-dc in 1. Work a sc between the 1st and 2nd dc's, chain 1, sc between next two stitches. You have 7 sc with a ch between each sc. 2 fp-dc in 1, fp-dc.* Repeat instructions from * until the end of the row. End with a fp-dc and ch 2, then a slst in the 3rd chain from the beginning of this row.

Row 16 :

Fp-slst, ch 3 (counts as fp-dc). Fp-dc, 2 fp-dc in 1. Sc in ch-1 space, chain 1, sc in next ch-1 space, chain 1, and repeat this until the end of the shell (so 6 sc and 5 chains in total). 2 fp-dc in 1, 2 fp-dc (1 in each). *ch 1, fp-dc in fp-dc from previous row, ch 1. 2 fp-dc, 2 fp-dc in 1. Sc in ch-1 space, chain 1, sc in ch-1 space, chain 1, sc in ch-1 space, repeat until end of the shell (so 6 sc and 5 chains in total). 2 fp-dc in 1, then 2 fp-dc (1 in each).* Repeat instructions between * until the end of the row. After the last leaf, you end with a ch 1, fp-dc, ch 1, and slst in the 3rd chain from the beginning of this row.

Row 17 :

Fp-slst, ch 3 (counts as fp-dc). Then 2 fp-dc (1 in each), 2 fp-dc in 1. 1 sc in ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in ch-1 space, ch 1, repeat (5 sc and 4 chains in total). 2 fp-dc in 1, 3 fp-dc (1 in each). *ch 1, fp-dc, ch 1. 3 fp-dc (1 in each), 2 fp-dc in 1. 1 sc in ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in ch-1 space, repeat (5 sc and 4 chains in total). 2 fp-dc in 1, 3 fp-dc (1 in each).* Repeat instructions between * until the end of the row. End with a ch 1, fp-dc, ch 1, and then a slst in the 3rd chain from the beginning of this row.

Row 18 :

Fp-slst, ch 3 (counts as fp-dc). 3 fp-dc (1 in each). 2 fp-dc in 1. Sc in ch-1 space, ch 1, repeat (4 sc and 3 chains in total). 2 fp-dc in 1, 2 fp-dc (1 in each), fp-dc2tog. *ch 2, fp-dc, ch 2. fp-dc2tog, 2 fp-dc (1 in each), 2 fp-dc in 1. Sc in ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in ch-1 space, repeat (4 sc and 3 chains in total). 2 fp-dc in 1, 2 fp-dc (1 in each), fp-dc2tog.* Repeat instructions between * until the end of the row. End with a ch 2, fp-dc, ch 2, and a slst in the 3rd chain from the beginning of this row + the next fp-dc (this way you 'crochet them together').

Row 19 :

2 slst (1 in each). Fp-slst in next, ch 3 (counts as fp-dc). Fp-dc, 2 fp-dc in 1. Sc in ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in next ch-1 space, repeat (3 sc and 2 chains in total). 2 fp-dc in 1, 2 fp-dc (1 in each), fp-dc2tog. *ch 2. In next: [fp-dc, ch 1, fp-dc]. ch 2, fp-dc2tog, 2 fp-dc (1 in each), 2 fp-dc in 1. Sc in ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in ch-1 space (so 3 sc and 2 chains in total). 2 fp-dc in 1, 2 fp-dc (1 in each), fp-dc2tog.* Repeat instructions between * until the end of the row. End with: in next [fp-dc, ch 1, fp-dc]. Ch 2, fp-dc2tog (you work in the ch 3 + the next fp-dc from the previous row, and the next fp-dc). Slst in 3rd chain from the beginning of this row.

Row 20 :

Fp-slst in next fp-dc, ch 3 (counts as fp-dc). Fp-dc in next, 2 fp-dc in 1. Sc in ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in next ch-1 space. 2 fp-dc in 1, 2 fp-dc (1 in each), fp-dc2tog. *ch 3, 2 fp-dc in 1, ch 2, 2 fp-dc in 1, ch 3. fp-dc2tog, 2 fp-dc (1 in each), 2 fp-dc in 1. Sc in ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in next ch-1 space. 2 fp-dc in 1, 2 fp-dc (1 in each), fp-dc2tog.* Repeat instructions between * until the end of the row. End with 2 fp-dc in 1, ch 2, 2 fp-dc in 1, ch 3. fp-dc2tog, slst in 3rd chain from the beginning of this row.

Row 21 :

Fp-slst in next fp-dc, ch 3 (counts as fp-dc). Fp-dc2tog (skip the space with sc's and chains). 2 fp-dc (1 in each), fp-dc2tog. *ch 3, 2 fp-dc (1 in each), ch 3, dc in chain space, ch 3, 2 fp-dc (1 in each), ch 3. fp-dc2tog, 2 fp-dc (1 in each), fp-dc2tog (skip the space with the sc's and chains), 2 fp-dc (1 in each), fp-dc2tog.* Repeat instructions between * until the end of the row. End with a ch 3, 2 fp-dc (1 in each), ch 3, dc in ch space, ch 3, 2 fp-dc (1 in each), ch 3. Fp-dc2tog, and a slst in the 3rd chain from the beginning of this row.

Row 22 :

Fp-slst in same (the beginning chain from the previous row), ch 3 (counts as fp-dc). Fp-dc in the fp-dc2tog from the previous row (you insert in the top loops as shown in the picture). Fp-dc in next. Fp-dc2tog. *ch 3, 2 fp-dc (1 in each), ch 3. Clst in first chain space, ch 4, clst in second chain space. Ch 3, 2 fp-dc (1 in each), ch 3. Fp-dc2tog, 3 fp-dc (1 in each, the second one goes in the fp-dc2tog from the previous row, where you insert through the loops in the top as shown in the picture). Then a fp-dc2tog.* Repeat instructions between * until the end of the row. End with a clst, ch 3, 2 fp-dc (1 in each), ch 3 and fp-dc2tog. Then a slst in the 3rd chain from the beginning of this row.

Row 23 :

Fp-slst in next, ch 3 (counts as fp-dc). You start in the center of the leaf. Fp-dc2tog. *ch 3, 2 fp-dc (1 in each), ch 3. 2 fp-dc in clst from previous row (you insert from front to the back side, and going behind the clst, you go to the front again). Ch 5, 2 fp-dc in next clst from previous row (same instructions as before). Ch 3, 2 fp-dc in 1, ch 3. Fp-dc2tog, fp-dc, fp-dc2tog.* Repeat instructions between * until the end of the row. End with a fp-dc2tog and a slst in the 3rd chain from the beginning of this row.

Row 24 :

Work a slst in the fp-dc2tog and the 3 chains (so 1 slst in each) and in the next fp-dc. *To make a heart shape, you follow these instructions: You have 4 fp-dc in total to work

Assembly Instructions

  • Sew beads onto the center of the mandala after the piece is completely finished and blocked; arrange beads as shown in photos and stitch securely with a needle and matching thread.
  • Block the mandala to open the petals and shape it to a 70 cm ring or blocking surface before attaching to a hoop or frame.
  • Attach the mandala to a 70 cm ring by evenly spacing the fabric around the ring and using small whipstitches or sewing with matching yarn to secure every few centimeters.
  • Pin and align petals and leaves symmetrically before sewing to ensure the mandala sits evenly on the ring.
  • Weave in all ends on the back of the mandala and trim excess threads; reinforce any bead attachments with a second pass of stitches for durability.

Important Notes

  • πŸ’‘Use the charts provided along with the written rowsβ€”previous rows are shown in light grey in the chart to help track the current row.
  • πŸ’‘Beads are optional; if you choose not to use beads, replace any 'dc with bead' with a normal dc or fp-dc as instructed.
  • πŸ’‘Block or mount the mandala before sewing it to a ring to ensure the petals and lace open up properly.
  • πŸ’‘Refer to the video tutorial (link provided in notes) if you find any of the front-post techniques or chart reading difficult.
  • πŸ’‘Work consistently in the specified front or back loops to keep the texture and leaf shapes correct.

This Virelle Mandala pattern invites you to create a beautiful, textured centerpiece for your home that captures light and detail. Whether you add beads or keep it minimal, the mandala becomes a graceful focal point in any space. Enjoy each round and the calming rhythm of working the front-post stitches as your design blossoms into a framed piece. 🧢✨

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FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The finished mandala is sized to fit a 70 cm ring when using Cotton DK yarn and a 2.5 mm hook, after blocking.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can change yarn weight, but it will affect the final size and texture. Adjust your hook size accordingly and expect a different finished diameter.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate and uses front-post and back-loop techniques, cluster stitches, and chart reading, so basic crochet experience and familiarity with post stitches is helpful.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crocheters complete this mandala in about 8-10 hours, though time may vary depending on experience and whether you add beads or mount to a ring.