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Pika the Electric Mouse Amigurumi Pattern

Pika the Electric Mouse Amigurumi Pattern
4.6★ Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
1.2K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

🧸

Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

About This Pika the Electric Mouse Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern creates a soft, squishy Pika the Electric Mouse amigurumi worked in bulky Bernat Blanket yarn for a plush finish. You will make a rounded head, a hdc body, small arms, detailed ears with a colour change, chubby cheeks, and a simple tail. The pattern uses invisible colour changes and step-by-step assembly instructions with photo references.

Pika the Electric Mouse Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Suitable for crocheters who know basic single and half double crochet, increases and decreases, and want to try simple shaping. Detailed rounds, stitch counts, and finishing tips are included for accurate results.

Why You'll Love This Pika the Electric Mouse Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it transforms simple stitches into a character full of personality and charm. I enjoy the tactile, plush result achieved by using Bernat Blanket yarn — it makes the amigurumi irresistibly soft. The invisible colour change technique gives the ears a neat, professional look that I always enjoy teaching. I also love how quickly the project comes together, making it perfect for a satisfying weekend make.

Pika the Electric Mouse Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Pika the Electric Mouse Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Pika the Electric Mouse Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Pika the Electric Mouse Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love to change up the colours to create different personalities for this pattern; try pastel yellows for a soft, nursery-friendly version.

I sometimes use a smaller hook and lighter yarn to create a mini keychain-sized Pika that's perfect for gifting.

I often replace safety eyes with embroidered eyes for extra safety when making toys for small children.

I like to experiment with ear shapes and sizes to give the character different expressions—slightly longer ears make a playful silhouette.

I add felt or embroidered details to the cheeks if I want a flatter, neater finish instead of crocheted cheeks.

I occasionally stuff the body more lightly for a floppy, lovey-style toy rather than a firm amigurumi shape.

I recommend swapping Bernat Blanket for any bulky chenille yarn for a different texture and equally plush result.

I sometimes add a tiny crocheted scarf or accessory to customize for holidays or special occasions as a sweet finishing touch.

I also try using a contrasting yarn for the tail to make it a focal point—black tip or striped tail effects look great.

I love embroidering small facial details or adding blush with a little yarn or fabric paint to give each Pika its own character.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Forgetting to place the safety eyes at the correct round and spacing; mark the positions first and count stitches carefully before inserting eyes. ✗ Skipping stitch markers when marking leg placement can lead to misaligned legs; use markers to reserve the 5 stitches per leg and ensure symmetry across the body. ✗ Not stuffing the head gradually often results in lumps or a misshapen head; add stuffing little by little while shaping and smoothing as you go. ✗ Changing colours without using an invisible colour change leaves a visible seam; use the invisible colour change technique described to keep the transition neat. ✗ Tying off ends too short makes sewing pieces together difficult; leave long tails for sewing and weave them into the piece to secure neatly.

Pika the Electric Mouse Amigurumi Pattern

Create an adorable Pika the Electric Mouse amigurumi using soft Bernat Blanket yarn. This pattern guides you through every round with clear step-by-step instructions and helpful photos so you can crochet a cuddly character. Perfect for gifting or keeping, the finished piece has cute ears, chubby cheeks, and a little tail for extra charm.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Pika the Electric Mouse Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Bulky weight 6 Bernat Blanket Brights - Yellow (main color)
  • 02
    Bulky weight 6 Bernat Blanket Brights - Black (for ear tips and nose)
  • 03
    Bulky weight 6 Bernat Blanket Brights - Cranberry (for cheeks)

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size L (8mm)
  • 02
    14mm Safety Eyes (2)
  • 03
    Polyester stuffing
  • 04
    Tapestry needle
  • 05
    Stitch markers
  • 06
    Scissors

Progress Tracker

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— Materials :

Infos :

Yarn Used: Bulky Weight 6 Bernat Blanket Brights - Yellow Bernat Blanket - Black Bernat Blanket - Cranberry

Infos :

You can use a different weight of yarn for this project, and adjust for the appropriate hook size. Be aware that this will affect the finished size.

Infos :

Special Stitches Invisible Colour Change Sc Performed on the stitch before the colour change: Begin Sc (insert hook into stitch and pull up a loop). There are 2 loops on the hook. Using new colour, pull through both loops to complete the stitch. Tie off both yarn tails to secure stitch.

Infos :

Additional Supplies: - Stuffing - 14mm Safety Eyes - Hook L 8mm - Tapestry Needle - Stitch Markers - Scissors

Infos :

Stitch Abbreviations: Sc - Single Crochet. Inc - Single Crochet Increase. Dec - Single Crochet Decrease. Hdc - Half Double Crochet. Hdc Inc - Half Double Crochet Increase. Hdc Dec - Half Double Crochet Decrease. Sl St - Slip Stitch. Ch - Chain.

— Head :

Round 1 :

8 Sc into Magic Ring (8)

Round 2 :

Inc x 8 (16)

Round 3 :

(Sc 1, Inc) x 8 (24)

Round 4-6 :

Sc around (24) (3 Rounds x 24 Sc = 72 Sc)

Round 7 :

(Sc 3, Inc) x 6 (30)

Round 8-9 :

Sc around (30) (2 Rounds x 30 Sc = 60 Sc)

Round 10 :

(Sc 3, Dec) x 6 (24)

Round 11 :

(Sc 2, Dec) x 6 (18)

Round 12 :

(Sc 1, Dec) x 6 (12)

Info :

Place safety eyes between rounds 7 & 8, 5 stitches apart. (PHOTO A) If embroidering eyes, loop yarn through repeatedly until you have a full, round eye. Tie ends off and leave the tails inside the head.

Info :

Nose can be added at this time, or at the end. Refer to Page 6 for instructions. Stuff the head until the desired firmness is achieved.

Round 13 :

Dec x 6 (6)

Info :

Tie off, leaving a 6" tail. Using a tapestry needle, finish off the head by picking up the front loops of the final 6 stitches. Pull tight to close and then hide the yarn tail through the piece and trim the excess. (PHOTO B)

— Arms :

Round 1 :

5 Hdc into Magic Ring (5)

Round 2-4 :

Hdc around (5) (3 Rounds x 5 Hdc = 15 Hdc)

Round 5 :

Hdc 3, Hdc Dec (4)

Info :

Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing onto the body. (PHOTO C) Set aside for sewing later.

— Ears :

Round 1 :

5 Sc into Magic Ring (5)

Round 2 :

Sc 4, Inc (6)

Info :

Invisible colour change to Yellow:

Round 3 :

Sl st, Sc 5 (6) (The sl st reduces the appearance of the colour change).

Round 4 :

(Sc 2, Inc) x 2 (8)

Round 5 :

Sc around (8)

Round 6 :

Dec x 4 (4)

Info :

Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing onto the head. (PHOTO D)

— Body :

Info :

Begin by holding the head upside down and face pointing away from you. Note: You will be placing 6 sc into the bottom of the head (using Round 13 as a guide for stitch placement). You will start the row at the back of the head.

Round 1 :

6 sc into head (6) (PHOTO E)

Round 2 :

Hdc Inc x 6 (12)

Round 3 :

(Hdc 1, Hdc Inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(Hdc 2, Hdc Inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

Hdc around (24)

Round 6 :

(Hdc 3, Hdc Inc) x 6 (30)

Round 7-8 :

Hdc around (30) (2 Rounds x 30 Hdc)

Round 9 :

(Hdc 3, Hdc Dec) x 6 (24)

Round 10 :

(Hdc 2, Hdc Dec) x 6 (18)

Info :

Add extra Hdc to get to the centre of the back.

Info :

Do not fasten off yet, you will go directly to the leg instructions.

— Legs :

Info :

Lay the body flat to figure out how to place the legs (There will be 5 stitches designated for each leg, that will leave 8 stitches unworked). Recall that on the previous page that you added extra Hdc to get to the centre of the back. Using stitch markers, mark 5 stitches for each leg, with a 4 stitch gap in between on each side. (PHOTO F). Add extra Hdc to get to the first st marker, if needed.

First Leg :

1. Sc Inc x 5 (10) (PHOTO G)

Round 2 :

(Sc 4, Inc) x 2 (12)

Round 3 :

(Sc 2, Dec) x 3 (9)

Round 4 :

(Sc 1, Dec) x 3 (6)

Info :

Fasten off and weave in tail. (PHOTO H)

Second Leg :

Add Yellow yarn to Round 10 of body, leaving a 10" yarn tail. The second leg will be worked the same way as the first leg. (PHOTO I)

Info :

Use the 10" yarn tail to sew closed the gap between the legs. (PHOTO J)

— Assembly :

Info :

Sew the arms onto Round 2 of the body, 4 stitches apart, at the front. (PHOTO K)

Info :

Sew the ears onto either side of the head, between Rounds 3 & 4. (PHOTO L)

— Nose :

Info :

In Black: Sew a strand of black yarn around the the centre stitch rounds 8 & 9, between the eyes. Secure the ends inside the head. (PHOTO M)

— Cheeks :

Round 1 :

In Cranberry: 5 Sc into Magic Ring (5) Sl st.

Info :

Fasten off and sew between Rounds 9 & 11, slightly behind the eyes. (PHOTO N)

— Tail :

Info :

* Leave a long tail at the beginning to sew onto body. In Yellow:

Round 1 :

Ch 6

Round 2 :

Starting 2nd Ch from the hook: Sc 5 (5) Ch 1 & turn

Round 3 :

Sc 5 (5) Ch 1 & turn

Round 4 :

Sc 2 (2) Ch 1 & turn

Round 5 :

Sc 2, Ch 4 (6) turn

Round 6 :

Starting 2nd Ch from the hook: Sc 5 (5) Ch 1 & turn

Round 7 :

Sc 5 (5) Ch 1 & turn

Round 8 :

Sc 5

Info :

Fasten off and sew between Rounds 7 & 8, at a slight angle. (PHOTO O & P)

Assembly Instructions

  • Sew the arms onto Round 2 of the body, spacing them 4 stitches apart near the front so they sit symmetrically on either side.
  • Sew the ears onto either side of the head between Rounds 3 & 4, aligning the base of each ear with the head curve for a natural look.
  • Attach the cheeks between Rounds 9 & 11 slightly behind the eyes to create a rounded cheek appearance and secure both ends inside the head.
  • Use the 10" tail from the second leg to sew closed the gap between the legs securely, then weave in the tail to hide it.
  • Sew the tail between Rounds 7 & 8 at a slight angle using the long tail left from its beginning, then fasten off and weave in ends.

Important Notes

  • 💡Place safety eyes between rounds 7 and 8 and space them 5 stitches apart for correct eye placement and symmetry.
  • 💡Use stitch markers to mark leg placement and important stitch positions to ensure accurate positioning during assembly.
  • 💡Do not overstuff the head; stuff gradually to achieve a smooth, even shape and avoid distorting the stitches.
  • 💡When changing colours on the ears, use the invisible colour change method to keep the colour transition neat and less noticeable.

This Pika the Electric Mouse amigurumi pattern brings a beloved electric friend to life with soft Bernat Blanket yarn. The plush texture, clever shaping, and tiny details like cheek patches and ear tips create a lovable character you can cherish. Whether for display or snuggles, this little amigurumi is a joyful weekend project. 🧶✨

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FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The finished amigurumi measures approximately a small palm-sized plush when made with Bernat Blanket yarn and an L (8mm) hook; exact size will vary by tension.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can use different yarn weights, but this will affect final size and stitch counts; adjust hook size accordingly and expect a size change.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate and assumes you know single crochet, half double crochet, increases, decreases, and basic shaping.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crocheters finish this project in about 5-7 hours, depending on experience and how quickly you work through assembly and finishing.