🧶 Beautiful ✨ Detailed 💝 Adorable

Lily the Piglet Amigurumi Pattern

Lily the Piglet Amigurumi Pattern
3.9★ Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
3.8K Made This
✂️

Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

🧸

Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

About This Lily the Piglet Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern teaches you how to crochet Lily the Piglet — a sweet amigurumi with a round head, cute snout and shaped limbs. You'll work mostly in single crochet in continuous rounds with a couple of shaping techniques like increases, decreases and back post single crochet. The pattern includes tips for joining pieces, adding joints or safety eyes, and shaping the head and hooves.

Lily the Piglet Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Detailed step-by-step rounds, photo tutorials and finishing techniques are included to help you assemble and finish your piglet. Suitable for crocheters comfortable with single crochet, increasing and decreasing.

Why You'll Love This Lily the Piglet Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it captures a sweet, playful look with very simple shaping that still feels polished. I enjoy how the snout and hooves use color changes to add personality without complicated stitches. The step-by-step photos and clear round-by-round instructions make assembly relaxing and satisfying for me. I also appreciate that the pattern includes multiple finishing options (plastic joints or button/thread) so you can choose the best method for your project.

Lily the Piglet Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Lily the Piglet Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Lily the Piglet Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Lily the Piglet Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love to change up this pattern by experimenting with colors — try soft pastels for a nursery-friendly piglet or bright contrast colors for a playful look.

I often make a mini keychain version by using thinner yarn and a smaller hook; this shrinks the pattern into a tiny portable friend perfect for gifts.

I sometimes substitute safety eyes with embroidered eyes for a completely baby-safe toy — it changes the expression and is great for gifts for very small children.

Want a posable piglet? Add thin floral wire inside the limbs or use pipe cleaners for a bendable, poseable figure — just be cautious if the toy will go to little children.

Change the texture by using a different yarn fiber: a slightly fuzzy yarn gives a cuddly plush look, while mercerized cotton gives a neat, defined stitch look.

I like to create tiny outfits or accessories — a crocheted bow, scarf or tiny hat adds personality and makes the piglet gift-ready.

Adjust the size by changing hook and yarn: bulky yarn with a larger hook makes a big, huggable piglet, while fingering weight creates an adorable miniature version.

Switch the hooves and snout color for an ombre or striped effect — simple color changes at the hoof and muzzle rounds create delightful variation.

Try using wooden or glass beads for eyes for a vintage look, or embroider lashes and eyebrows to alter the piglet's expression and mood.

I also like to add subtle blush with a small amount of pastel chalk or embroidery to the cheeks to bring a soft, finished look to the face.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping the stitch marker when working in a spiral can make it hard to identify your round start; always place a marker or a piece of yarn at the beginning of each round. ✗ Overstuffing the head or limbs leads to distortion and lumps; stuff gradually and evenly, adding a little fiberfill after several rounds to keep a smooth shape. ✗ Changing colors without securing yarn tails tends to leave loose ends that show; tie and weave in tails or use the described method to hide and secure them neatly. ✗ Forgetting to count stitches after increases or decreases creates uneven shaping; count the final stitch totals after each shaping round to ensure accuracy.

Lily the Piglet Amigurumi Pattern

Create an adorable Lily the Piglet with this detailed intermediate amigurumi pattern. You will crochet a sweet piglet with shaping, a snout, ears, arms, legs and tail. Clear step-by-step rounds and assembly photos guide you through every stage so you can finish a lovable handmade friend.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Lily the Piglet Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Sport weight cotton-acrylic blend yarn (Alize 'Cotton Gold' or similar) 329 m = 100 g (14 wpi / 2: fine)
  • 02
    Light pink yarn - approx. 55 g (180 m) for body/head
  • 03
    Dark pink yarn - approx. 20 g (66 m) for hooves, snout and ear details
  • 04
    Polyester fiberfill, wool or wadding for stuffing

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook 2.50 - 3.00 mm (US size 2/C - 3/D) or according to the yarn
  • 02
    Safety eyes 9 mm (or buttons, beads, felt)
  • 03
    Two 20 mm and two 15 mm plastic doll joints or safety eyes/buttons and thread
  • 04
    Black or dark brown embroidery floss for nostrils
  • 05
    Yarn needle for sewing
  • 06
    Scissors
  • 07
    Stitch marker
  • 08
    Pins for assembly (optional)

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Head :

Round 1 :

mr, sc 6 (6)

Round 2 :

inc x 6 (12)

Round 3 :

(sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(inc, sc 2) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(sc 3, inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6 :

sc, inc, (sc 4, inc) x 5, sc 3 (36)

Round 7 :

(sc 5, inc) x 6 (42)

Round 8 :

sc 2, inc, (sc 6, inc) x 5, sc 4 (48)

Round 9 :

(sc 7, inc) x 6 (54)

Round 10-15 :

sc in each st (54)

Info :

On round 16 place a stitch marker between stitches 24 and 25 (around the loops on top of the 25th stitch). This marks the center of the face, use it as a guide when placing the eyes.

Round 16-17 :

sc in each st (54)

Round 18 :

sc 11, inc, (sc 2, inc) x 2, sc 13, inc, (sc 2, inc) x 2, sc 16 (60)

Round 19-21 :

sc in each st (60)

Round 22 :

sc 3, dec, (sc 8, dec) x 5, sc 5 (54)

Round 23 :

(sc 7, dec) x 6 (48)

Round 24 :

sc 2, dec, (sc 6, dec) x 5, sc 4 (42)

Info :

Attach safety eyes to either side of the stitch marker, between rows 16 and 17, leaving 10 stitches (count 9 holes) between them (see page 7).

Round 25 :

(sc 5, dec) x 6 (36)

Round 26 :

sc, dec, (sc 4, dec) x 5, sc 3 (30)

Round 27 :

(sc 3, dec) x 6 (24)

Round 28 :

(dec, sc 2) x 6 (18)

Info :

Sl st in next stitch. Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing, and fasten off. Stuff the head firmly.

— Muzzle :

Round 1 :

mr, sc 6 (6)

Round 2 :

(inc3 x 2, sc) x 2 (14)

Round 3 :

sc 2, inc x 3, sc 4, inc x 3, sc 2 (20)

Round 4 :

sc 3, inc x 3, sc 7, inc x 3, sc 4 (26)

Round 5 :

bpsc in each st (26)

Round 6-7 :

sc in each st (26)

Info :

Sl st in next stitch. Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing, and fasten off.

Info :

Stuff the muzzle firmly and sew it to the head. Embroider the nostrils. Use yarn to shape the head (see page 7 - 8).

— EARS (make 2) :

Round 1 :

mr, sc 6 (6)

Round 2 :

sc in each st (6)

Round 3 :

(inc, sc) x 3 (9)

Round 4 :

(sc 2, inc) x 3 (12)

Round 5 :

sc, inc, (sc 3, inc) x 2, sc 2 (15)

Round 6 :

(sc 4, inc) x 3 (18)

Round 7-9 :

sc in each st (18)

Round 10 :

(dec, sc) x 6 (12)

Info :

Sl st in next stitch. Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing, and fasten off. Flatten the ears and sew them to the head (see page 10).

— ARMS (make 2) :

Round 1 :

mr, sc 7 (7)

Round 2 :

inc x 7 (14)

Round 3 :

(sc, inc) x 7 (21)

Note :

Crochet round 4 in back loops only.

Round 4 :

sc in each st (21)

Round 5 :

sc 7, dec, (sc, dec) x 2, sc 6 (18)

Round 6 :

sc 4, dec, sc 7, dec, sc 3 (16)

Round 7 :

sc 8, dec, sc 6 (15)

Info :

Sc in next stitch, count it as the end of the round from now on.

With light pink yarn - Round 8 :

sc in each st (15)

Round 9 :

sc 7, dec, sc 6 (14)

Info :

Stuff firmly. Turn the arm so the end of the round is at the back of the arm. Make a long vertical stitch along the front of the hoof with light pink yarn, going from round 7 straight down, draw it very tight and knot the yarn ends together (see page 8).

Info :

Keep adding a bit of fiberfill after every few rounds, stuffing the arms firmly.

Round 10 :

sc in each st (14)

Round 11 :

sc 7, dec, sc 5 (13)

Round 12 :

sc in each st (13)

Round 13 :

sc 7, dec, sc 4 (12)

Round 14 :

sc in each st (12)

Round 15 :

sc 7, dec, sc 3 (11)

Round 16-23 :

sc in each st (11)

Info :

On the left arm only, sc in next 6 stitches. Count the last sc as the end of the round from now on.

Info :

Attach the 15 mm joint between rounds 22 and 23, placing it so the stem is facing straight towards the body (see page 9).

Round 24 :

sc 5, dec x 3 (8)

Round 25 :

dec x 2, leave rest of the sts unworked (6)

Info :

Finish stuffing. Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn tail, and fasten off. Pick up all the remaining stitches and close the opening (see page 9).

— LEGS (make 2) :

Round 1 :

mr, sc 6 (6)

Round 2 :

inc x 6 (12)

Round 3 :

(sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(inc, sc 2) x 6 (24)

Note :

Crochet round 5 in back loops only.

Round 5 :

sc in each st (24)

Round 6 :

sc 8, dec, (sc, dec) x 2, sc 8 (21)

Round 7 :

sc 5, dec, sc 8, dec, sc 4 (19)

Round 8 :

sc 9, dec, sc 8 (18)

Info :

Sc in next stitch, count it as the end of the round from now on.

With light pink yarn - Round 8 :

sc in each st (15)

Round 9 :

sc 7, dec, sc 6 (14)

Info :

Stuff firmly. Turn the leg so the end of the round is at the back of the leg. Make a long vertical stitch along the front of the hoof with light pink yarn, going from round 8 straight down, draw it very tight and knot the yarn ends together (see page 8).

Info :

Keep adding a bit of fiberfill after every few rounds, stuffing the legs firmly.

Round 11 :

sc in each st (17)

Round 12 :

sc 3, dec, sc 8, dec, sc 2 (15)

Round 13 :

sc in each st (15)

Round 14 :

sc 7, dec, sc 6 (14)

Round 15 :

sc in each st (14)

Round 16 :

sc 7, dec, sc 5 (13)

Round 17-28 :

sc in each st (13)

Info :

On the left leg only, sc in next 7 stitches. Count the last sc as the end of the round from now on.

Info :

Attach the 20 mm joint between rounds 27 and 28, placing it so the stem is facing straight towards the body (see page 9).

Round 29 :

sc 9, dec, sc 2 (12)

Round 30 :

sc 2, dec x 5 (7)

Round 31 :

sc, dec, leave the rest of the sts unworked (6)

Info :

Finish stuffing. Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn tail, and fasten off. Pick up all the remaining stitches and close the opening (see page 9).

— BODY :

Round 1 :

mr, sc 6 (6)

Round 2 :

inc x 6 (12)

Round 3 :

(sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(inc, sc 2) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(sc 3, inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6 :

sc, inc, (sc 4, inc) x 5, sc 3 (36)

Round 7 :

(sc 5, inc) x 6 (42)

Round 8-14 :

sc in each st (42)

Info :

Turn the body so the last stitch of round 14 is at the center of the back. Attach the legs to either side of the body, between rounds 8 and 9 (see page 9).

Round 15 :

sc 9, dec, sc 5, dec, sc 6, dec, sc 5, dec, sc 9 (38)

Round 16 :

sc 18, dec, sc 18 (37)

Round 17 :

(sc 11, dec) x 2, sc 11 (35)

Round 18 :

sc 4, dec, sc 24, dec, sc 3 (33)

Info :

Start stuffing the body. Keep adding a bit of fiberfill after every few rounds, stuffing the body firmly.

Round 19 :

sc 16, dec, sc 15 (32)

Round 20 :

dec, sc 30 (31)

Round 21 :

sc 7, dec, sc 14, dec, sc 6 (29)

Round 22 :

sc 14, dec, sc 13 (28)

Round 23 :

sc 10, dec, sc 6, dec, sc 8 (26)

Round 24 :

(dec, sc 11) x 2 (24)

Round 25 :

sc 6, dec, sc 9, dec, sc 5 (22)

Round 26 :

sc 9, dec, sc 2, dec, sc 7 (20)

Round 27 :

dec, sc 18 (19)

Round 28 :

sc 9, dec, sc 8 (18)

Round 29 :

sc in each st (18)

Info :

Sl st in next stitch. Cut the yarn and fasten off. Attach the arms to either side of the body between rows 24 and 25 (see page 9). Finish stuffing the body.

Info :

Sew the head to the body (see page 10).

— TAIL :

Round 1 :

ch 11, starting in 2nd ch from hook, 2 sc in each ch, crocheted into the loops on the back of the chain (20)

Info :

Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing, and fasten off.

Info :

Sew the tail to the body (see page 10).

— Assembly & Finishing :

Info :

Attach the eyes after finishing round 24, sew muzzle to the head just below round 15, embroider nostrils with black or dark brown floss, and use yarn to shape the head as shown in the photo instructions.

Info :

Sew ears to head placing each ear just below round 6. Sew head to body with whip stitch or mattress stitch, adding a bit more stuffing before closing the seam. Sew tail to body just above round 9.

Assembly Instructions

  • Attach the ears to the head: place each ear just below round 6 and sew flat through both layers so the ear curve faces forward.
  • Sew the muzzle to the head with whip stitch, placing it just below round 15; embroider the nostrils with black or dark brown floss and secure all yarn tails with a knot under the head.
  • Attach the safety eyes between rounds 16 and 17 using the stitch marker as center point, leaving 10 stitches (count 9 holes) between the eyes; pull yarn tails to snug and knot securely.
  • Insert plastic doll joints in limbs: push the stem through the limb and into the body so the stem faces the body, then close the limb opening and hide yarn tails.
  • Sew the head to the body using whip or mattress stitch (mattress preferred by author) aligning the neck opening and adding extra stuffing before closing seam.
  • Sew the tail to the body just above round 9 and secure firmly with concealed stitches; tuck and hide yarn tails inside with a yarn needle.

Important Notes

  • 💡Work in a continuous spiral; do not join rounds or turn your work unless instructed otherwise in the pattern.
  • 💡Use a stitch marker or a piece of yarn to mark the end or the beginning of a round to keep track of rounds while working in spiral.
  • 💡Work all stitches in both loops unless instructed otherwise in the pattern (some rounds are worked in back loops only).
  • 💡Stuff gradually and evenly; add a small amount of stuffing after every few rounds for smooth shaping and avoid lumps.
  • 💡Pin parts in place before sewing to check placement and symmetry for head, arms, legs and ears.

This Lily the Piglet pattern combines simple single crochet shaping with delightful details like a stitched snout and hooves to create a lovable handmade companion. Whether you make one for nurseries, as a gift, or to expand your amigurumi skills, Lily is designed to be accessible and rewarding. Enjoy every stitch and welcome this little piglet into your home. 🧶🐷✨

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FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The finished amigurumi measures approximately 26 cm (10 1/4") from head to toe when crocheted with the recommended sport weight cotton-acrylic blend and a 2.50 mm hook.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can use different yarn weights, but this will change the final size; choose an appropriate hook for your yarn and be prepared that joints and safety eyes sizing may need to change.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate and assumes you know single crochet, increasing, decreasing and working in spiral; photo tutorials are included for stitches and finishing.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crocheters finish this piglet in about 5-7 hours depending on experience and assembly time; allow extra time for sewing, shaping and fastening tails.