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Lighted Granny Pumpkin Pattern

Lighted Granny Pumpkin Pattern
4.8★ Rating
2-4 Hours Time Needed
1.5K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Bite-Sized Project

Finishes in 2-4 hours—perfect for an afternoon of creative relaxation.

🏡

Cozy Accent

A warm touch for your space that transforms ordinary corners into inviting nooks filled with handmade charm.

About This Lighted Granny Pumpkin Pattern

This pattern teaches you how to crochet lighted pumpkins in three sizes using a granny-cluster motif and simple finishing techniques. Each pumpkin is built from a flat crocheted strip that is seamed into a tube and joined to create the classic pumpkin segments. The pattern shows how to add stems, leaves, curly vines, and battery-powered fairy lights to make an illuminated display.

Lighted Granny Pumpkin Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

The instructions use standard US terms and include full row-by-row directions for Large, Medium, and Small pumpkins. Materials lists specify yarn amounts, suggested hook, and notions including the recommended fairy lights and optional mylar for light diffusion.

Why You'll Love This Lighted Granny Pumpkin Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it turns a classic granny-cluster into a glowing seasonal decoration that is both elegant and whimsical. I enjoy how quickly each pumpkin comes together and how customizable the sizes and colors are. The way the fairy lights peek through the clusters gives each pumpkin a warm, magical glow that photographs beautifully and looks amazing on a mantel or table. I also love offering them as small handmade gifts — they are compact, delightfully tactile, and use just small bits of yarn and leftover supplies.

Lighted Granny Pumpkin Pattern step 1 - construction progress Lighted Granny Pumpkin Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Lighted Granny Pumpkin Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Lighted Granny Pumpkin Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how versatile this pattern is for customization; you can change yarn colors to match your decor or the season and create pumpkins with soft pastels, neutral creams, or bright autumn hues.

Want to make them larger or smaller? Change your yarn weight and hook size: bulky yarn and a larger hook make a chunky version, while fingering or sport weight makes adorable minis perfect for tree ornaments.

I often embroider small faces or add tiny felt eyes to make them playful seasonal characters for a mantel display or a child's room.

Try different leaf shapes and sizes: a larger statement leaf or a cluster of tiny leaves will change the pumpkins silhouette and personality.

For a rustic look, use tweedy or wool yarns and a brown stem; for modern glam, choose metallic or sparkly yarns and brighter lights.

I sometimes add a short length of floral wire inside the curly vine so it can be repositioned and hold a pretty spiral shape.

If youd like the pumpkin to be completely closed for travel, hide the battery pack behind the base and secure it with stitch markers or a small pouch so it stays removable for battery changes.

I also recommend trying a felt backing for the battery pack to keep it from rubbing the yarn and to create a clean interior finish.

To make a set for gifting, package three sizes together with a small card listing yarn and light replacement instructions  it makes a thoughtful handcrafted present.

Dont be afraid to experiment: mixing textures, stripes, or two-tone pumpkins can lead to beautiful, unique pieces that show off your creativity.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping the instruction to crochet over the tail when working the first round of a magic circle can make the center loose; crochet the first row over both strands and then pull the tail to close the circle tightly. ✗ Counting ch-1 spaces as stitches during decrease rows will give you the wrong stitch count; for decrease rows, do not count ch-1 spaces as stitches and skip over them as though they do not exist. ✗ Not leaving a long yarn tail when finishing the flat strip makes seaming and finishing difficult; leave about a 14" yarn tail for seaming and assembly so you have enough yarn to stitch the pumpkin closed. ✗ Failing to test-fit the battery pack and lights before final seaming can cause damage or awkward placement; insert the lights and mylar early to confirm fit, then adjust stuffing and seam placement accordingly. ✗ Overstuffing the stem or stuffing unevenly will distort the pumpkin silhouette; stuff stems with a pinch of poly-fill and bodies lightly so the lights still shine through the stitches.

Lighted Granny Pumpkin Pattern

Make charming lighted pumpkins using a simple granny-cluster technique that creates beautiful texture and glowing centers. This pattern includes three sizes so you can create a coordinated display for fall decor, parties, or gifts. You will love the quick shaping and the way the battery fairy lights shine through the stitches. Perfect for adapting colors and adding leaves, stems, or vines for a personalized touch.

Intermediate 2-4 Hours

Materials Needed for Lighted Granny Pumpkin Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Medium worsted weight yarn (#4) - Large pumpkins: less than 45g (83 yards) each; Caron One Pound in Cream or Red Heart Super Saver in Gold
  • 02
    Medium worsted weight yarn (#4) - Medium pumpkins: less than 30g (55 yards) each; Caron One Pound in Off White or Pale Green
  • 03
    Medium worsted weight yarn (#4) - Small pumpkins: less than 15g (28 yards) each; Red Heart Super Saver in Gold or Cornmeal
  • 04
    Odds-and-ends yarn for stems, leaves, and vines - Red Heart Super Saver in Coffee, Cafe Latte, Warm Brown, Dark Jade, or Caron One Pound in Soft Sage

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size US H8/5.00mm
  • 02
    Yarn needle for weaving in ends and seaming
  • 03
    Scissors
  • 04
    Pinch of polyester stuffing for the stem
  • 05
    Clear 6 mil mylar craft plastic (optional but recommended for light diffusion)
  • 06
    20-LED battery-operated fairy lights in warm white for each pumpkin (Large can support up to 50-LED; photos show two 20-LED strings used)
  • 07
    CR2032 or appropriate replacement batteries (highly recommended)

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— How to Make a Magic Circle :

Infos :

1. Form the yarn into a circle. 2. Cross the top thread under the circle and pull through as though youre about to create a slip knot, but do not tighten the circle. 3. Insert hook into the loop. 4. While pinching the yarn tail and circle firmly together, ch 1. This chain helps secure the yarn, and does not count as a stitch. 5. Crochet the first rows stitches (ex: 6 sc) into the circle, being sure to crochet over both strands of yarn. 6. Pinch the yarn tail firmly between your thumb and forefinger, and pull tightly until circle closes. 7. Finished! The first round of the pattern is now complete with a clean, tight center. Look! No hole!

Info :

All instructions are in Standard/US terms.

— Large Pumpkin :

Info :

Hook size: US H8/5.00mm. Yarn: Caron One Pound in Cream or Red Heart Super Saver in Gold. Turning chains do not count as stitches.

Round 0 :

Begin by working ch 14.

Round 1 :

sc in second chain from hook and in next st, 2 sc, sc, [2 sc in next 2 st, sc] 2 times, 2 sc, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (19 st) (Fig. L-1)

Round 2 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, sk st, [3 dc in next st, ch 1, sk 2 st] 4 times, 3 dc in next st, ch 1, sk st, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 5 granny clusters) (Fig. L-2)

Round 3 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, dc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sk 3 st, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 4 times, sk 3 st, dc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in last two st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 4 granny clusters) (Fig. L-3)

Round 4 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, sk first ch and dc st, [3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk 3 st] 4 times, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk last dc and ch-1 space, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 5 granny clusters) (Fig. L-4)

Round 5 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, dc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sk 3 st, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 4 times, sk 3 st, dc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in last two st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 4 granny clusters) (Fig. L-5)

Round 6 :

— (for this decrease row, do not count ch-1 spaces as stitches; skip over them as though they dont exist) — sc in first 2 st, [sc2tog, sc] 5 times, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (13 stitches) (Fig. L-6)

Round 7 :

— working in front loops only — sc in first 2 st, 2 sc, sc, [2 sc in next 2 st, sc] 2 times, 2 sc, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (19 st)

Round 8 :

— working in both loops from now on — sc in first two st, ch 1, sk st, [3 dc in next st, ch 1, sk 2 st] 4 times, 3 dc in next st, ch 1, sk st, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 5 granny clusters)

Round 9 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, dc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sk 3 st, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 4 times, sk 3 st, dc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in last two st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 4 granny clusters)

Round 10 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, sk first ch-1 space and dc st, [3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk 3 st] 4 times, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk last dc and ch-1 space, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 5 granny clusters)

Round 11 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, dc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sk 3 st, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 4 times, sk 3 st, dc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in last two st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 4 granny clusters)

Round 12 :

— (for this decrease row, do not count ch-1 spaces as stitches; skip over them as though they dont exist) — sc in first 2 st, [sc2tog, sc] 5 times, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (13 stitches) (Fig. L-7)

Round 13 :

— working in front loops only — sc in first 2 st, 2 sc, sc, [2 sc in next 2 st, sc] 2 times, 2 sc, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (19 st)

Round 14 :

— working in both loops from now on — sc in first two st, ch 1, sk st, [3 dc in next st, ch 1, sk 2 st] 4 times, 3 dc in next st, ch 1, sk st, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 5 granny clusters)

Round 15 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, dc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sk 3 st, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 4 times, sk 3 st, dc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in last two st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 4 granny clusters)

Round 16 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, sk first ch-1 space and dc st, [3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk 3 st] 4 times, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk last dc and ch-1 space, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 5 granny clusters)

Round 17 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, dc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sk 3 st, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 4 times, sk 3 st, dc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in last two st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 4 granny clusters)

Round 18 :

— (for this decrease row, do not count ch-1 spaces as stitches; skip over them as though they dont exist) — sc in first 2 st, [sc2tog, sc] 5 times, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (13 stitches)

Round 19 :

— working in front loops only — sc in first 2 st, 2 sc, sc, [2 sc in next 2 st, sc] 2 times, 2 sc, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (19 st)

Round 20 :

— working in both loops from now on — sc in first two st, ch 1, sk st, [3 dc in next st, ch 1, sk 2 st] 4 times, 3 dc in next st, ch 1, sk st, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 5 granny clusters)

Round 21 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, dc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sk 3 st, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 4 times, sk 3 st, dc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in last two st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 4 granny clusters)

Round 22 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, sk first ch-1 space and dc st, [3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk 3 st] 4 times, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk last dc and ch-1 space, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 5 granny clusters)

Round 23 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, dc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sk 3 st, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 4 times, sk 3 st, dc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in last two st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 4 granny clusters)

Round 24 :

— (for this decrease row, do not count ch-1 spaces as stitches; skip over them as though they dont exist) — sc in first 2 st, [sc2tog, sc] 5 times, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (13 stitches)

Round 25 :

— working in front loops only — sc in first 2 st, 2 sc, sc, [2 sc in next 2 st, sc] 2 times, 2 sc, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (19 st)

Round 26 :

— working in both loops from now on — sc in first two st, ch 1, sk st, [3 dc in next st, ch 1, sk 2 st] 4 times, 3 dc in next st, ch 1, sk st, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 5 granny clusters)

Round 27 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, dc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sk 3 st, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 4 times, sk 3 st, dc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in last two st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 4 granny clusters)

Round 28 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, sk first ch-1 space and dc st, [3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk 3 st] 4 times, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk last dc and ch-1 space, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 5 granny clusters)

Round 29 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, dc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sk 3 st, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 4 times, sk 3 st, dc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in last two st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 4 granny clusters)

Round 30 :

— (for this decrease row, do not count ch-1 spaces as stitches; skip over them as though they dont exist) — sc in first 2 st, [sc2tog, sc] 5 times, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (13 stitches)

Round 31 :

— working in front loops only — sc in first 2 st, 2 sc, sc, [2 sc in next 2 st, sc] 2 times, 2 sc, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (19 st)

Round 32 :

— working in both loops from now on — sc in first two st, ch 1, sk st, [3 dc in next st, ch 1, sk 2 st] 4 times, 3 dc in next st, ch 1, sk st, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 5 granny clusters)

Round 33 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, dc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sk 3 st, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 4 times, sk 3 st, dc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in last two st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 4 granny clusters)

Round 34 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, sk first ch-1 space and dc st, [3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk 3 st] 4 times, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk last dc and ch-1 space, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 5 granny clusters)

Round 35 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, dc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sk 3 st, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 4 times, sk 3 st, dc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in last two st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 4 granny clusters)

Round 36 :

— (for this decrease row, do not count ch-1 spaces as stitches; skip over them as though they dont exist) — sc in first 2 st, [sc2tog, sc] 5 times, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (13 stitches)

Info :

Finish off, leaving 14" yarn tail. (Fig. L-8 & L-9) See assembly instructions beginning on page 27.

— Medium Pumpkin :

Info :

Hook size: US H8/5.00mm. Yarn: Caron One Pound in Off White or Pale Green. Turning chains do not count as stitches.

Round 0 :

Begin by working ch 12.

Round 1 :

sc in second ch from hook and in next st, 2 sc, sc, 2 sc in next 3 st, sc, 2 sc, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (16 st) (Fig. M-1)

Round 2 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, sk st, [3 dc in next st, ch 1, sk 2 st] 3 times, 3 dc in next st, ch 1, sk st, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 4 granny clusters) (Fig. M-2)

Round 3 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, dc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sk 3 st, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 3 times, sk 3 st, dc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in last two st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 3 granny clusters) (Fig. M-3)

Round 4 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, sk first ch and dc st, [3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk 3 st] 3 times, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk last dc and ch-1 space, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 4 granny clusters) (Fig. M-4)

Round 5 :

— (for this decrease row, do not count ch-1 spaces as stitches; skip over them as though they dont exist) — sc in first 2 st, sc2tog, sc, sc2tog 3 times, sc, sc2tog, sc in last two st. Ch 1, turn. (11 stitches) (Fig. M-5)

Round 6 :

— working in back loops only — sc in next 2 st, 2 sc, sc, 2 sc in next 3 stitches, sc, 2 sc, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (16 st)

Round 7 :

— working in both loops from now on — sc in first two st, ch 1, sk st, [3 dc in next st, ch 1, sk 2 st] 3 times, 3 dc in next st, ch 1, sk st, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 4 granny clusters)

Round 8 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, dc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sk 3 st, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 3 times, sk 3 st, dc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in last two st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 3 granny clusters)

Round 9 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, sk first ch-1 space and dc st, [3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk 3 st] 3 times, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk last dc and ch-1 space, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 4 granny clusters)

Round 10 :

— (for this decrease row, do not count ch-1 spaces as stitches; skip over them as though they dont exist) — sc in first 2 st, sc2tog, sc, sc2tog 3 times, sc, sc2tog, sc in last two st. Ch 1, turn. (11 stitches) (Fig. M-6)

Round 11 :

— working in front loops only — sc in next 2 st, 2 sc, sc, 2 sc in next 3 stitches, sc, 2 sc, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (16 st)

Round 12 :

— working in both loops from now on — sc in first two st, ch 1, sk st, [3 dc in next st, ch 1, sk 2 st] 3 times, 3 dc in next st, ch 1, sk st, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 4 granny clusters)

Round 13 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, dc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sk 3 st, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 3 times, sk 3 st, dc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in last two st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 3 granny clusters)

Round 14 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, sk first ch-1 space and dc st, [3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk 3 st] 3 times, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk last dc and ch-1 space, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 4 granny clusters)

Round 15 :

— (for this decrease row, do not count ch-1 spaces as stitches; skip over them as though they dont exist) — sc in first 2 st, sc2tog, sc, sc2tog 3 times, sc, sc2tog, sc in last two st. Ch 1, turn. (11 stitches)

Round 16 :

— working in back loops only — sc in next 2 st, 2 sc, sc, 2 sc in next 3 stitches, sc, 2 sc, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (16 st)

Round 17 :

— working in both loops from now on — sc in first two st, ch 1, sk st, [3 dc in next st, ch 1, sk 2 st] 3 times, 3 dc in next st, ch 1, sk st, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 4 granny clusters)

Round 18 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, dc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sk 3 st, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 3 times, sk 3 st, dc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in last two st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 3 granny clusters)

Round 19 :

— (for this decrease row, do not count ch-1 spaces as stitches; skip over them as though they dont exist) — sc in first 2 st, sc2tog, sc, sc2tog 3 times, sc, sc2tog, sc in last two st. Ch 1, turn. (11 stitches)

Round 20 :

Finish off, leaving 14" yarn tail. (Fig. M-7) See assembly instructions beginning on page 27.

— Small Pumpkin :

Info :

Hook size: US H8/5.00mm. Yarn: Red Heart Super Saver in Gold or Cornmeal. Turning chains do not count as stitches.

Round 0 :

Begin by working ch 8.

Round 1 :

sc in second chain from hook, 2 sc in next 2 st, sc, 2 sc in next 2 st, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (11 st) (Fig. S-1)

Round 2 :

sc, ch 1, sk st, [3 hdc in next st, ch 1, sk 2 st] 2 times, 3 hdc in next st, ch 1, sk st, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (1 sc in each end + 3 granny clusters) (Fig. S-2)

Round 3 :

sc in first st, ch 1, hdc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sk 3 st, 3 hdc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 2 times, sk 3 st, hdc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (1 sc on each end + 2 granny clusters) (Fig. S-3)

Round 4 :

sc, ch 1, sk first ch-1 space and hdc, [3 hdc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk 3 st] 2 times, 3 hdc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk last hdc and ch-1 space, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (1 sc in each end + 3 granny clusters) (Fig. S-4)

Round 5 :

— (for this decrease row, do not count ch-1 spaces as stitches; skip over them as though they dont exist) — sc in first st, sc2tog 2 times, sc, sc2tog 2 times, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (7 stitches) (Fig. S-5)

Round 6 :

— working in back loops only — sc, 2 sc in next 2 st, sc, 2 sc in next 2 st, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (11 st)

Round 7 :

sc, ch 1, sk st, [3 hdc in next st, ch 1, sk 2 st] 2 times, 3 hdc in next st, ch 1, sk st, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (1 sc in each end + 3 granny clusters)

Round 8 :

sc in first st, ch 1, hdc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sk 3 st, 3 hdc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 2 times, sk 3 st, hdc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (1 sc on each end + 2 granny clusters)

Round 9 :

sc, ch 1, sk first ch-1 space and hdc, [3 hdc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk 3 st] 2 times, 3 hdc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk last hdc and ch-1 space, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (1 sc in each end + 3 granny clusters)

Round 10 :

— (for this decrease row, do not count ch-1 spaces as stitches; skip over them as though they dont exist) — sc in first st, sc2tog 2 times, sc, sc2tog 2 times, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (7 stitches)

Round 11 :

— working in front loops only — sc, 2 sc in next 2 st, sc, 2 sc in next 2 st, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (11 st)

Round 12 :

sc, ch 1, sk st, [3 hdc in next st, ch 1, sk 2 st] 2 times, 3 hdc in next st, ch 1, sk st, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (1 sc in each end + 3 granny clusters)

Round 13 :

sc in first st, ch 1, hdc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sk 3 st, 3 hdc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 2 times, sk 3 st, hdc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (1 sc on each end + 2 granny clusters)

Round 14 :

— (for this decrease row, do not count ch-1 spaces as stitches; skip over them as though they dont exist) — sc in first st, sc2tog 2 times, sc, sc2tog 2 times, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (7 stitches)

Info :

Finish off, leaving 14" yarn tail. See assembly instructions beginning on page 27.

Assembly Instructions

  • Before seaming the ends together, insert the battery-operated fairy light string into the tube and arrange the lights roughly evenly; add a piece of clear 6 mil mylar craft plastic inside to help diffuse the light if desired.
  • Fold the crocheted strip into a tube by bringing the short ends together and whipstitch or slip-stitch them closed with the long yarn tail, leaving an opening for adding lights and adjusting stuffing.
  • Sew the seam closed neatly using the 14" tail left at the end, then gather the top and bottom centers to form the pumpkin shape and stitch securely to hold the segments.
  • Stuff the stem lightly with a pinch of poly-fill, and sew the stem to the top center of the pumpkin using the yarn tail; adjust placement so the battery pack rests comfortably inside or behind the pumpkin.
  • Attach the leaf and curly vine pieces to the top beside the stem using small whipstitches, arranging them so the leaves cover part of the seam and the vine curls down the side for a natural look.
  • Test the lights once everything is assembled and hide the battery pack behind the pumpkin or down inside if the opening allows; secure the battery pack with a bit of extra yarn or a small scrap of felt if needed.

Important Notes

  • 💡Use stitch markers or a safety pin to mark the short ends and the center when seaming and aligning granny clusters so the segments match up evenly.
  • 💡Stuff lightly so the lights still shine through the stitches; overstuffing will compress the stitches and reduce light diffusion.
  • 💡Leave the recommended 14" tail for seaming and assembly to ensure you have enough yarn to stitch the pieces together securely.

Create a glowing autumn display with these sweet lighted pumpkins that work beautifully as table centerpieces or mantel decor. Theyre quick to make, fully customizable, and perfect for mixing colors and sizes to match your home. Make a set to gift or decorate your own space this season — theyre tiny wonders that shine! 🎃🧶✨

You ask,

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FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

Large Pumpkin: approximately 4-3/4" (12cm) wide by 5" (12.7cm) high including stem; Medium Pumpkin: approximately 4" (10cm) wide by 4" (10cm) high including stem; Small Pumpkin: approximately 3" (7.6cm) wide by 3-1/2" (9cm) high including stem.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can use different yarn weights, but this will affect the final size and light diffusion; choose an appropriate hook size for the yarn and test one pumpkin first to confirm the look.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is intermediate; basic knowledge of single crochet, double crochet, half double crochet, working in front/back loops, granny clusters, and seaming will help you complete the pumpkins successfully.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crafters finish a single pumpkin in 2-4 hours depending on size and experience; making a full set of three sizes or multiple pumpkins will take longer.

What kind of lights should I use?

Use battery-operated fairy lights (20-LED strings in warm white recommended); large pumpkins can support up to 50-LED. Use CR2032 or similar batteries and ensure the battery pack fits comfortably inside or behind the pumpkin.