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Dragon Toothless Amigurumi Pattern

Dragon Toothless Amigurumi Pattern
4.0โ˜… Rating
12-15 Hours Time Needed
3.3K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

โฑ๏ธ

Multi-Day Project

A rewarding 12+ hour journeyโ€”perfect for dedicated crafters who love detailed work.

๐Ÿงธ

Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

About This Dragon Toothless Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern teaches you how to crochet a posable Toothless-inspired dragon amigurumi using fine cotton yarn and small hooks. It features wire-framed wings, internal wire tail, and removable joint options for realistic movement. Clear step-by-step rounds, photos and notes guide you through shaping the head, body, legs, wings and tail.

Dragon Toothless Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

You will learn to add details such as eyelids, spines and painted pupils for personality. The pattern includes instructions for both plastic joint and cotter pin fastening methods to suit your finishing preference.

Why You'll Love This Dragon Toothless Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it brings a beloved dragon to life with small, precise stitches and a posable frame that feels magical to hold. I enjoyed designing the wing wiring and joint options so you can choose between removable plastic joints or cotter pins for sturdiness. The detailsโ€”eyelids, spines and painted pupilsโ€”add so much character and make each finished toy unique. I hope you feel the same joy finishing this piece as I did creating the instructions.

Dragon Toothless Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Dragon Toothless Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Dragon Toothless Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Dragon Toothless Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how versatile this pattern is for customization; you can swap yarn color to make new dragon characters or fantasy creatures.

I often try thicker yarn and a larger hook to create a chunkier, cuddlier dragon and it scales beautifully.

I sometimes replace the painted pupils with felt or safety eyes for a different look โ€” felt gives a soft, matte eye while safety eyes add shine.

I like adding wire in the limbs for posability; a thinner wire will keep the piece flexible while heavier wire gives firmer poses.

You can experiment with adding tiny crocheted clothes or a saddle to give the dragon accessories and personality.

I recommend trying both plastic joints and cotter pins on test pieces to decide which fastening you prefer for movement versus strength.

For a miniature version, use a thinner yarn and smaller hooks and shorten the wires accordingly; it makes a great keychain or small gift.

I sometimes embroider small scars or add different colored spines to tell a story about my dragon โ€” little details make each one unique.

If you want a more weathered look, I apply dry pastel sparingly to the wing edges and tail fins; it creates depth and character.

Don't be afraid to change eye shape or eyelid placement โ€” eyes dramatically change expression and mood, so experiment before final sewing.

I also enjoy making matching sets with different shell patterns or wing colors, turning one pattern into many variations you can gift or sell.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

โœ— Skipping stitch markers when changing orientation can displace the marker; use a marker and shift it with the extra (shift) stitch to keep rounds aligned. โœ— Overstuffing limbs creates a bulky, misshapen look and stresses joints; stuff gradually and only firm the foot area as directed to maintain proportions. โœ— Forgetting to mark holes for joints or wing frames leads to misaligned fastenings; mark the spaces in the rounds indicated (contrasting thread) before continuing. โœ— Pulling yarn too tight when working edging along the wire frame will distort the wing shape; keep consistent medium tension and check the fit over the bent wire. โœ— Not hiding long ends or weaving them in can show through finished seams; leave long sewing tails and hide ends inside each piece as instructed for a clean finish.

Dragon Toothless Amigurumi Pattern

Create a charming, posable Toothless-style dragon with this detailed crochet pattern. You will work in fine cotton with wire-framed wings and jointed legs for realistic movement. The pattern includes full round-by-round instructions, wiring guidance and assembly tips so you can finish a 30cm toy. Follow along for precise shaping, placement photos and professional finishing touches.

Intermediate 12-15 Hours

Materials Needed for Dragon Toothless Amigurumi Pattern

โ€” Main Fabric

  • 01
    Fine/4ply Yarn Art Baby Cotton 50g/165m (50% cotton, 50% acrylic) - Color 454 (dark gray) - quantity: main body and pieces
  • 02
    Fine/4ply Yarn Art Baby Cotton 50g/165m (50% cotton, 50% acrylic) - Color 460 (black) - quantity: accents and details
  • 03
    Lace weight/1ply yarn Alpina Lena 50g/280m (100% mercerized cotton) - Color 10 (yellow) - small amount for eyes
  • 04
    Polyester stuffing (fiberfill) - enough to stuff body, tail and limbs firmly
  • 05
    Seed beads - small quantity for decorative spines (optional)
  • 06
    Dry pastel of black color - small amount for tinting wings and tail fins
  • 07
    Textile paint black and white - small tubes for pupils and glare

โ€” Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size 2.0 mm
  • 02
    Crochet hook size 1.25 mm (for 1ply eye details)
  • 03
    Toy stuffing material (fiberfill)
  • 04
    Beading needle and needle with a blunt end
  • 05
    Scissors
  • 06
    Sewing pins
  • 07
    Wire for the wings frame diameter 0.9mm - lengths: 23cm (2pcs), 19cm (4pcs), 13cm (2pcs)
  • 08
    Wire for tail/body frame diameter 1.6mm - length 45cm
  • 09
    Hot glue gun
  • 10
    Plastic joints size 25mm (for hind legs, 2pcs) and size 15mm (for forelegs, 2pcs)
  • 11
    Disks size 25mm - 4pcs and disks size 15mm - 4pcs for cotter pins fastening
  • 12
    T-shaped cotter pins 20*2 - 4pcs
  • 13
    Round nose pliers
  • 14
    Fishing line or nylon thread for sewing seed beads

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

โ€” Head :

Info :

Crochet with dark gray yarn, hook size 2 mm. The marker of the beginning of the round passes exactly in the middle of the back. If necessary, crochet extra stitches. Stuff as you go.

Round 1 :

6sc in a MR (6)

Round 2 :

6inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1sc, inc)*6 (18)

Round 4 :

1sc, inc, (2sc, inc)*5, 1sc (24)

Round 5 :

(3sc, inc)*6 (30)

Round 6 :

2sc, inc, (4sc, inc)*5, 2sc (36)

Round 7 :

(5sc, inc)*6 (42)

Round 8 :

3sc, inc, (6sc, inc)*5, 3sc (48)

Round 9 :

(7sc, inc)*6 (54)

Round 10 :

4sc, inc, (8sc, inc)*5, 4sc (60)

Round 11 :

(9sc, inc)*6 (66)

Round 12 :

66sc (66)

Round 13 :

5sc, inc, (10sc, inc)*5, 5sc (72)

Round 14-21 :

72sc (8 rounds)

Round 22 :

18sc, (BLO 36sc), 18sc (72)

Round 23 :

5sc, dec, (10sc, dec)*5, 5sc (66)

Round 24 :

(9sc, dec)*6 (60)

Round 25 :

4sc, dec, (8sc, dec)*5, 4sc (54)

Round 26 :

(7sc, dec)*6 (48)

Round 27 :

2sc, dec, (4sc, dec)*7, ch3

Round 28 :

skip 2 stitches before marker and 2 stitches after marker, next crochet 1sc, dec, (3sc, dec)*6, 3sc, 1sc on the chain (32)

Round 29 :

2sc on the chain, dec, (2sc, dec)*7 (24)

Round 30 :

(2sc, dec)*6 (18)

Round 31 :

(1sc, dec)*6 (12)

Round 32 :

6dec (6)

Info :

Cut the yarn, fasten off, tighten the hole.

Info :

We will use the hole in round 27-28 to bring the wire frame from the body into the head.

Info :

Attach the dark gray yarn to the first unused front loop of round 21 (keep the hole away from you) and crochet: 17sc, 2hdcinc, 17sc. Cut the yarn, fasten off, hide the ends inside.

โ€” Eyes (make 2) :

Info :

Crochet with 1ply yarn Alpina Lena of yellow color, hook size 1.25mm.

Round 1 :

6sc in a MR (6)

Round 2 :

6inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1sc, inc)*6 (18)

Round 4 :

(inc, 2sc)*6 (24)

Round 5 :

3sc, 2hdcinc, 2sc (short round)

Info :

Cut the yarn, fasten off, weave in the ends (bring all the ends to the front side). We will attach the eyes to the head with the wrong side out, as it is less relief than the front.

Info :

On the wrong side of the eye, draw a pupil with black textile paint and a glare with white paint (see photo). HDC increases in round 5 are located in the upper inner corner of the eyes (marked in the photo). PS. If desired, eyes, pupils and glare can be cut out of felt and glued together.

Info :

Leave the eyes on the head fixed with sewing pins. We will sew and glue all the pieces at the very end, when we assemble all the other pieces and place them in the places we like.

โ€” Eyelids (make 2) :

Info :

Crochet with dark gray yarn, hook size 2 mm. Ch9, start in the second chain from the hook: sl st, 6sc, sl st. Cut the yarn, leaving a long end for sewing pieces.

Info :

The mood of the dragon depends on the location of the eyelids. You can make him angry or a little sad. Try several options for the location of the eyelids and choose what you like best.

โ€” Ears (make 2) :

Info :

Crochet with dark gray yarn, hook size 2 mm. The marker of the beginning of the round passes on the side in the middle. If necessary, crochet extra stitches. Do not stuff.

Round 1 :

6sc in a MR (6)

Round 2 :

(1sc, inc)*3 (9)

Round 3 :

4sc, inc, 4sc (10)

Round 4 :

4sc, inc, 5sc (11)

Round 5 :

5sc, inc, 5sc (12)

Round 6 :

(inc, 5sc)*2 (14)

Round 7-8 :

14sc (2 rounds)

Round 9 :

6sc, dec, 6sc (13)

Round 10 :

5sc, dec, 6sc (12)

Info :

Fold in half and crochet through both sides 6sc. Cut the yarn, leaving a long end for sewing pieces.

โ€” Spines 1 (make 2) :

Info :

Crochet with dark gray yarn, hook size 2 mm.

Round 1 :

6sc in a MR (6)

Round 2 :

6sc (6)

Info :

Cut the yarn, leaving a long end for sewing pieces.

Info :

Fix with sewing pins to the head (see the location in the photo).

โ€” Spines 2 (make 2) :

Info :

Crochet with dark gray yarn, hook size 2 mm. Do not stuff.

Round 1 :

6sc in a MR (6)

Round 2 :

(2sc, inc)*2 (8)

Round 3 :

8sc (8)

Info :

Fold in half and crochet through both sides 4sc. Cut the yarn, leaving a long end for sewing pieces.

Info :

Fix with sewing pins to the head (see the location in the photo).

โ€” Spines 3 (make 2) :

Info :

Crochet with dark gray yarn, hook size 2 mm. Do not stuff.

Round 1 :

6sc in a MR (6)

Round 2 :

6sc (6)

Round 3 :

(1sc, dec)*2 (4)

Info :

Cut the yarn, leaving a long end for sewing pieces.

Info :

Fix with sewing pins to the head (see the location in the photo).

โ€” Hind Legs :

Info :

Crochet with dark gray yarn, hook size 2 mm. Ch8, start on the second chain from the hook.

Round 1 :

6sc, 4sc in the last chain, on the other side of the chain: 5sc, inc (17)

Round 2 :

inc, 5sc, 4inc, 5sc, 2inc (24)

Round 3 :

1sc, inc, 5sc, (1hdc, hdcinc)*4, 5sc, (1sc, inc)*2 (31)

Round 4 :

9sc, (3-dc Bobble st in black, 2sc in dark gray)*4, 9sc - short round (you may have a different number of stitches)

Round 5 :

31sc (31)

Round 6 :

(4sc, dec)*2, 7sc, (dec, 4sc)*2 (27)

Round 7 :

6sc, dec, 5sc, dec, 4sc, dec, 6sc (24)

Round 8 :

6sc, 6dec, 6sc (18)

Round 9-13 :

18sc (5 rounds)

Info :

Begin to gradually stuff the leg with fiberfill. While stuffing tightly only the lower part (foot).

Round 14 :

(5sc, inc)*3 (21)

Round 15-16 :

21sc (2 rounds)

Info :

Left hind leg - for plastic joints legs fastening:

Round 17 :

13sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 6sc (21)

Round 18 :

13sc, 2sc on the chain, 6sc (21)

Round 19 :

21sc (21)

Info :

For cotter pins legs fastening: 17-19. 21sc (3 rounds)

Info :

Right hind leg - for plastic joints legs fastening:

Round 17 :

6sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 13sc (21)

Round 18 :

6sc, 2sc on the chain, 13sc (21)

Round 19 :

21sc (21)

Info :

For cotter pins legs fastening: 17-19. 21sc (3 rounds)

Info :

Select the diameter of the fastening: fold the leg in half and select a disk/joint that occupies the entire internal space of the leg (the disk/joint D25mm is suitable for me). When using a cotter pin, move 2 rounds down and away from the marker: 7sc to the left (for the right hind leg) and 7sc to the right (for the left hind leg) and insert the disc with the cotter pin. Continue to gradually stuff the leg with fiberfill. Stuff the upper part slightly.

Round 20 :

(5sc, dec)*3 (18)

Round 21 :

(1sc, dec)*6 (12)

Round 22 :

6dec (6)

Info :

Cut the yarn. Tighten the hole and hide the ends inside.

โ€” Forelegs :

Info :

Crochet with dark gray yarn, hook size 2 mm. The marker of the beginning of the round should pass at the back, in the center. If necessary, crochet extra stitches.

Round 1 :

6sc in a MR (6)

Round 2 :

6inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1sc, inc)*6 (18)

Round 4 :

5sc, (3-dc Bobble st in black, 2sc in dark gray)*3, 4sc

Round 5-7 :

18sc (3 rounds)

Round 8 :

8sc, dec, 8sc (17)

Round 9 :

17sc (17)

Round 10 :

5sc, dec, 3sc, dec, 5sc (15)

Round 11 :

15sc (15)

Round 12 :

6sc, dec, 7sc (14)

Round 13 :

6sc, 2inc, 6sc (16)

Round 14 :

dec, 12sc, dec (14)

Round 15 :

6sc, 2inc, 6sc (16)

Round 16 :

dec, 12sc, dec (14)

Info :

Begin to gradually stuff the leg with fiberfill. While stuffing tightly only the lower part.

Info :

Left foreleg - for plastic joints legs fastening:

Round 17 :

6sc, 2inc, 1sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 3sc (16)

Round 18 :

dec, 9sc, 2sc on the chain, 1sc, dec (14)

Info :

For cotter pins legs fastening: 17. 6sc, 2inc, 6sc (16) and 18. dec, 12sc, dec (14)

Info :

Right foreleg - for plastic joints legs fastening:

Round 17 :

3sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 1sc, 2inc, 6sc (16)

Round 18 :

dec, 1sc, 2sc on the chain, 9sc, dec (14)

Info :

For cotter pins legs fastening: 17. 6sc, 2inc, 6sc (16) and 18. dec, 12sc, dec (14)

Round 19 :

(5sc, dec)*2 (12)

Round 20 :

6dec (6)

Info :

Cut the yarn. Tighten the hole and hide the ends inside.

โ€” Wings (make 2) :

Info :

Take dark gray yarn, hook size 2 mm, wire with a diameter of 0.9mm (23cm-2pcs., 19cm-4pcs., 13cm-2pcs.). Better take it with a margin). Bend the end of each wire as shown in the photo. In the process be careful, work in rows. There will be rows where we will make t-ch and turn and rows where we will skip 1 stitch.

Info :

Ch28, start from the second chain on the hook, working around the wire 23cm long (start from the bend end).

Round 1 :

27sc (27), turn. After that do not work with the wire.

Round 2 :

from the 2nd stitch: 8sc, dec, 12sc, dec (22), turn.

Round 3 :

from the 2nd stitch: 11sc, dec, 6sc (18), turn.

Round 4 :

from the 2nd stitch: 16sc (16), turn.

Round 5 :

from the 2nd stitch: 13sc (13), turn.

Round 6 :

from the 2nd stitch: 12sc (12), turn.

Round 7 :

from the 2nd stitch: 9sc (9), turn.

Round 8 :

from the 2nd stitch: 8sc (8), turn.

Round 9 :

from the 2nd stitch: 4sc (4), turn.

Round 10 :

from the 2nd stitch: 3sc (3), ch3, turn.

Info :

Next, crochet with a wire 19cm long (start from the bend end).

Round 11 :

from the 2nd chain: 2sc, 3sc, +1sc into the corner, 3sc along stitches of the previous row, +1sc into the corner, 2sc along stitches of the previous row, +1sc into the corner, 2sc along stitches of the previous row, +1sc into the corner, 2sc along stitches of the previous row (18), turn.

Round 12 :

from the 2nd stitch: 15sc, dec (16), turn.

Round 13 :

from the 2nd stitch: 7sc (7), turn.

Round 14 :

from the 2nd stitch: 6sc (6), turn.

Round 15 :

from the 2nd stitch: 5sc, +1sc into the corner, 4sc along stitches of the previous row (10), turn.

Round 16 :

from the 2nd stitch: 9sc (9), t-ch, turn.

Round 17 :

from the 2nd stitch: 9sc, +1sc into the corner, 3sc along stitches of the previous row (13), turn (1 stitch of the previous row remains unused!).

Round 18 :

from the 2nd stitch: 12sc (12), t-ch, turn.

Round 19 :

from the 2nd stitch: 9sc (9), turn.

Round 20 :

from the 2nd stitch: 8sc (8), t-ch, turn.

Round 21 :

from the 2nd stitch: 5sc (5), turn.

Round 22 :

from the 2nd stitch: 3sc, inc (5), 3ch, turn.

Info :

Next, crochet with a wire 19cm long (start from the bend end).

Round 23 :

from the 2nd chain: 2sc, 5sc, +1sc into the corner, 3sc along stitches of the previous row, +1sc into the corner, 3sc along stitches of the previous row, +1sc into the corner, 1sc along stitch of the previous row, +2sc into the corners of the previous rows (19), turn.

Round 24 :

from the 2nd stitch: 18sc (18), turn.

Round 25 :

from the 2nd stitch: 17sc (17), turn.

Round 26 :

from the 2nd stitch: 16sc (16), turn.

Round 27 :

from the 2nd stitch: 14sc (14), turn.

Round 28 :

from the 2nd stitch: 13sc (13), t-ch, turn.

Round 29 :

from the 2nd stitch: 11sc (11), turn.

Round 30 :

from the 2nd stitch: 9sc, inc (11), t-ch, turn.

Round 31 :

from the 2nd stitch: 9sc (9), turn.

Round 32 :

from the 2nd stitch: 7sc, inc (9), 3ch, turn.

Info :

Next, crochet with a wire 13cm long (start from the bend end).

Round 33 :

from the 2nd chain: 2sc, 8sc (8), turn.

Round 34 :

from the 2nd stitch: 4sc (4), turn.

Round 35 :

from the 2nd stitch: 3sc (3), turn.

Round 36 :

from the 2nd stitch: 2sc, +1sc into the corner, 4sc along stitches of the previous row (7), turn.

Round 37 :

from the 2nd stitch: 4sc, dec (5), t-ch, turn.

Round 38 :

from the 2nd stitch: 5sc (5), t-ch, turn.

Round 39 :

from the 2nd stitch: 5sc (5)

Info :

Cut the yarn, leaving a long end for sewing pieces. Bend the wire frame along the upper side of the wing.

Info :

Make an edging along the frame. Attach the dark gray yarn to the marked points in the photo (the exit point of the first wire) and crochet sc along the upper side of the wing (see photo). The green arrow shows the direction of crocheting.

โ€” Tail :

Info :

Crochet with dark gray yarn, hook size 2 mm. The marker of the beginning of the round should pass at the back, in the center. If necessary, crochet extra stitches.

Round 1 :

4sc in a MR (6)

Round 2-4 :

4sc (3 rounds)

Round 5 :

(1sc, inc)*2 (6)

Round 6-8 :

6sc (3 rounds)

Round 9 :

(2sc, inc)*2 (8)

Round 10-11 :

8sc (2 rounds)

Round 12 :

(3sc, inc)*2 (10)

Round 13 :

10sc (10)

Round 14 :

2sc, inc, 4sc, inc, 2sc (12)

Round 15 :

12sc (12)

Round 16 :

(5sc, inc)*2 (14)

Round 17 :

14sc (14)

Round 18 :

3sc, inc, 6sc, inc, 3sc (16)

Round 19 :

16sc (16)

Round 20 :

(7sc, inc)*2 (18)

Round 21-22 :

18sc (2 rounds)

Round 23 :

4sc, inc, 8sc, inc, 4sc (20)

Round 24-26 :

20sc (3 rounds)

Round 27 :

(9sc, inc)*2 (22)

Round 28-30 :

22sc (3 rounds)

Round 31 :

5sc, inc, 10sc, inc, 5sc (24)

Round 32-33 :

24sc (2 rounds)

Round 34 :

(11sc, inc)*2 (26)

Round 35-36 :

26sc (2 rounds)

Round 37 :

6sc, inc, 12sc, inc, 6sc (28)

Round 38 :

28sc

Round 39 :

(13sc, inc)*2 (30)

Info :

Do not cut the yarn. We will crochet the body.

Info :

Prepare a wire frame. We need a wire with a diameter of 1.6mm and 45cm long. Bend one end, as shown in the photo. Insert the frame into the tail and stuff it.

โ€” Body :

Info :

Continue crocheting from the tail. The marker of the beginning of the round passes in the back in the middle. If necessary, crochet extra stitches. Start counting rounds from the beginning for convenience. Focus on 4 inc in round 1.

Round 1 :

11sc, inc, 1sc, 4inc, 1sc, inc, 11sc (36)

Round 2 :

6sc, inc, 22sc, inc, 6sc (38)

Round 3 :

14sc, inc, 8sc, inc, 14sc (40)

Round 4 :

10sc, inc, 18sc, inc, 10sc (42)

Round 5 :

3sc, inc, (6sc, inc)*5, 3sc (48)

Round 6 :

48sc (48)

Round 7 :

(7sc, inc)*6 (54)

Round 8-9 :

54sc (2 rounds)

Round 10 :

For plastic joints legs fastening: 13sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 24sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 13sc (54)

Round 11 :

For plastic joints legs fastening: 13sc, 2sc on the chain, 24sc, 2sc on the chain, 13sc (54)

Round 10 (cotter) :

54sc (mark space between stitches 14 and 15 and stitches 40 and 41 with a thread in a contrasting color for convenience) (54)

Round 11 (cotter) :

54sc (54)

Round 12-16 :

54sc (5 rounds)

Round 17 :

8sc, dec, (16sc, dec)*2, 8sc (51)

Round 18 :

20sc, dec, 7sc, dec, 20sc (49)

Round 19 :

49sc (49)

Round 20 :

20sc, dec, 5sc, dec, 20sc (47)

Round 21 :

47sc (47)

Round 22 :

21sc, dec, 1sc, dec, 21sc (45)

Round 23 :

(13sc, dec)*3 (42)

Round 24 :

42sc (42)

Round 25 :

6sc, dec, (12sc, dec)*2, 6sc (39)

Round 26 :

39sc (39)

Round 27 :

(11sc, dec)*3 (36)

Info :

In round 28 crochet the holes for the wings frames, forelegs joints fastening and mark the place for the cotter pins fastening.

Round 28 (plastic joints) :

3sc, ch1, skip 1sc, 4sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 16sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 4sc, ch1, skip 1sc, 3sc (36) - don't confuse! Ch1 - for the wings frames, ch2 - for the plastic joints.

Round 29 (plastic joints) :

3sc, 1sc on the chain, 4sc, 2sc on the chain, 16sc, 2sc on the chain, 4sc, 1sc on the chain, 3sc (36)

Round 28 (cotter) :

3sc, ch1, skip 1sc, 28sc, ch1, skip 1sc, 3sc (36) - mark spaces

Round 29 (cotter) :

3sc, 1sc on the chain, 28sc, 1sc on the chain, 3sc (36)

Round 30 :

8sc, dec, 16sc, dec, 8sc (34)

Round 31 :

34sc (34)

Round 32 :

(15sc, dec)*2 (32)

Round 33 :

32sc (32)

Round 34 :

7sc, dec, 14sc, dec, 7sc (30)

Info :

Insert the wire frame of the wings into the holes in round 28, connect it with the body frame, wrap it with insulating tape. Sew the wings to the back.

Round 35 :

4sc, dec, (8sc, dec)*2, 4sc (27)

Round 36 :

(7sc, dec)*3 (24)

Round 37 :

24sc (24)

Info :

It is not necessary to stuff the neck tightly.

Info :

Cut the yarn, leaving a long end for sewing pieces.

Info :

Pass the wire frame into the hole on the head in rounds 27-28, and sew the head to the body, as shown in the photo.

โ€” Tail Fin (make 2) :

Info :

Crochet with dark gray yarn, hook size 2 mm. Ch13, start from the second chain on the hook, work in rows in back loops.

Row 1 :

12sc (12), ch3, turn

Row 2 :

from the 2nd chain: 2sc, 11sc (13), turn.

Row 3 :

from the 2nd stitch: 12sc (12), ch3, turn

Row 4 :

from the 2nd chain: 2sc, 11sc (13), turn.

Row 5 :

from the 2nd stitch: 12sc (12), ch3, turn

Row 6 :

from the 2nd chain: 2sc, 11sc (13)

Info :

Cut the yarn, leaving a long end for sewing pieces. Fix the tail fins to the tip of the tail (see photo) and sew.

โ€” Spines (make 16) :

Info :

Crochet with dark gray yarn, hook size 2 mm - 4sc in a MR.

Info :

Pull the ring. Cut the yarn, leaving a long end for sewing pieces.

Info :

Attach the spines to the tail, body and head (see photo) and sew. Sew on seed beads if desired.

Assembly Instructions

  • Pass the 1.6mm wire frame up through the tail and into the body then through the opening in the head (rounds 27-28) and sew the head securely to the body around the neck using the long sewing tail.
  • Insert the wings wire frames into the holes made in round 28 of the body, connect the wing frames to the body frame, wrap their joints with insulating tape and sew the wings to the back securely.
  • Fasten legs using either plastic joints or cotter pins per instructions: fold the leg, select a disk/joint that fills the internal cavity, insert the disc and secure the cotter pin or plastic joint and then attach into the marked holes in the body.
  • Pin spines, eyelids, ears and eyes in place using sewing pins to test positions, then sew and glue all pieces after final placement; hide and weave in all ends inside the stuffed body.
  • Attach tail fins to the tip of the tail and sew; bend and shape wing wires along the upper edge and make a neat crocheted edging to finish the wing frame.
  • If using seed beads for decoration, sew them on after assembly using fishing line or nylon thread, and tint wing edges and tail fins with black dry pastel for weathered detail.

Important Notes

  • ๐Ÿ’กUse stitch markers to keep track of your rounds and align the marker to the center back; shift with the extra (shift) stitch when needed.
  • ๐Ÿ’กStuff gradually, filling the foot and lower parts firmly but avoid overstuffing the neck or head to maintain correct shape.
  • ๐Ÿ’กMark spaces for joints and wing frames with a contrasting thread in the rounds specified to ensure correct placement during fastening.
  • ๐Ÿ’กWork wire-framed wings carefully and bend wire ends before inserting; leave long sewing tails for secure attachment before trimming.

This Toothless-inspired dragon is designed to be a cuddly, posable companion with wire wings and jointed legs for realistic movement. The pattern includes full round-by-round instructions and wiring guidance so you can finish a 30cm toy with confidence. Make one to keep or giftโ€”each tiny detail adds personality and charm. ๐Ÿงถ๐Ÿ‰โœจ

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FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The finished amigurumi measures about 30 cm tall when using the recommended yarns, hook sizes and wire frame lengths.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can use different yarn weights, but this will affect the final size and wire/frame requirements. Adjust hook sizes and wire thickness to match and test gauge with a sample wing or leg.

Do I need advanced crochet skills for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate; basic amigurumi experience, comfort with increases/decreases and working in rows around wires is recommended for best results.

How long does the project typically take?

Most crafters complete this project in about 12-15 hours depending on experience and assembly choices like cotter pins or plastic joints.