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DOLL ZOEY Amigurumi Pattern

DOLL ZOEY Amigurumi Pattern
4.5★ Rating
12-15 Hours Time Needed
3.9K Made This
✂️

Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Multi-Day Project

A rewarding 12+ hour journey—perfect for dedicated crafters who love detailed work.

🧸

Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

About This DOLL ZOEY Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern teaches you how to crochet Doll Zoey, a boho-style amigurumi dressed in layered lace, a granny-square coat, beanie and shoes. It uses sport-weight cotton yarn and small hooks to create firm stitches ideal for dolls. The pattern includes full instructions for head, body, arms, legs, shoes, coat squares and assembly steps.

DOLL ZOEY Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

You will follow clear round-by-round instructions with stitch counts and finishing notes. The pattern includes yarn color maps and photos to help with placement and shaping.

Why You'll Love This DOLL ZOEY Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it captures a sweet boho aesthetic while remaining structured and rewarding to stitch. I enjoy the layered dress construction and the way the granny-square coat adds playful color and texture. The pattern gives precise stitch counts and helpful finishing tips so the final doll looks polished. Making Zoey offers a satisfying mix of shaping, small accessories, and decorative stitches that always keep me engaged.

DOLL ZOEY Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress DOLL ZOEY Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress DOLL ZOEY Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories DOLL ZOEY Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how easy it is to customize Doll Zoey by swapping the yarn colors for a completely different mood; using pastels will make a soft vintage doll while bright colors give her a playful pop.

I sometimes change yarn weight and hook size to make a tiny keychain-size version or a larger cuddle doll; adjusting the hook one size up for bulky yarn gives a cozy super-sized Zoey.

I often add embroidered freckles or a tiny embroidered smile to alter her expression—this small change can give the doll a whole new personality.

Try crochet clothing variations like a simple cardigan, a sunhat or a tiny purse to create a whole wardrobe for Zoey; I like mixing textures like ribbed cuffs with lace skirts for visual interest.

I recommend experimenting with different hair styles using the wig instructions: short bob, long braid or ponytail work beautifully and change the character instantly.

For a wearable art piece, make the coat in monochrome shades and add metallic thread accents across the granny squares for subtle shine.

I also enjoy using different closures on the coat—tiny buttons, snaps, or even a ribbon tie give different finishing looks and are easy to swap.

To make Zoey posable, consider adding thin wire armature inside the limbs before stuffing; I use this trick when I want the doll to hold tiny props like a flower or book.

If you want a more modern or minimalist doll, reduce the dress layers and keep a simple A-line dress with bold color blocking—you still follow the same body rounds but change the skirt construction.

Finally, I sometimes create matching sibling dolls by changing just one or two colors so they read as a set; it's a lovely way to make a family of handmade gifts.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping stitch markers when working spiral rounds leads to losing track of the beginning; place a marker at the start of every round and move it up each new round. ✗ Overstuffing the head or body causes lumps and a distorted shape; stuff gradually with small amounts of fiberfill and shape as you go for smooth results. ✗ Not inserting the safety eyes at the indicated rounds causes misplacement of facial features; set the eyes between rounds 12 and 13 and space them 8 stitches apart as instructed. ✗ Using a different yarn without adjusting hook size will change the finished size and gauge; check the gauge and adjust hook size to match the pattern measurements before starting.

DOLL ZOEY Amigurumi Pattern

Create a charming boho-inspired Doll Zoey with this detailed crochet pattern. You will make a fully dressed amigurumi doll with layered dress, coat, hat and shoes using cotton sport weight yarn. The pattern includes full stitch counts, special techniques, and photos to guide you through each step. Perfect for intermediate crocheters who love making collectible dolls and handmade gifts.

Intermediate 12-15 Hours

Materials Needed for DOLL ZOEY Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Sport weight cotton yarn (Catania - Schachenmayr, 100% Cotton, 137 yards/50 g) - main quantities as listed below
  • 02
    Color A: 263 soft apricot - < 1 ball (head, arms, feet, neck)
  • 03
    Color B: 105 natur - 2 balls (body, dress)
  • 04
    Color C: 164 jeans - < 1 ball (leggings)
  • 05
    Color D: 247 sky - ~2 yds/2 m (leggings detail)
  • 06
    Color E: 172 silver - < 1 ball (sole of shoe)
  • 07
    Color F: 110 black - 7 yds/6 m (shoe)
  • 08
    Color G: 251 magenta - < 1 ball (coat, beanie, shoe)
  • 09
    Color H: 192 claret - < 1 ball (coat, beanie)
  • 10
    Color K: 397 turquoise - < 1 ball (coat, beanie, flower)
  • 11
    Color L: 226 lavender - < 1 ball (coat, beanie, shoe lace)
  • 12
    Color M: 252 dark coral - 1 ball (coat, beanie)
  • 13
    Color N: 157 marone - 1 ball (wig)

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook US 1½ (2.5 mm)
  • 02
    Crochet hook US 2½ (3.0 mm)
  • 03
    Crochet hook US 4 (3.5 mm)
  • 04
    Tapestry needles (usual and extra long)
  • 05
    Sewing needle
  • 06
    Sewing thread
  • 07
    Stitch marker
  • 08
    Scissor
  • 09
    Pins
  • 10
    Optional: wooden spoon/chopstick and clamping scissor to simplify the filling
  • 11
    Fiberfill (polyester stuffing)
  • 12
    2 black safety eyes, Ø 6 mm
  • 13
    Cardboard or plastic pieces for shoe soles
  • 14
    3 tiny buttons for the coat and the flower
  • 15
    Strong thread (dental floss) for jointing

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Head :

Round 1 :

Magic ring: 1 ch (does not count as st), 6 sc in magic ring (6 sts)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12 sts)

Round 3 :

*1 sc, 1 inc* crochet 6 times (18 sts)

Round 4 :

*1 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc* crochet 6 times (24 sts)

Round 5 :

*3 sc, 1 inc* crochet 6 times (30 sts)

Round 6 :

*2 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc* crochet 6 times (36 sts)

Round 7 :

*1 inc, 5 sc* crochet 6 times (42 sts)

Round 8 :

*5 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc* crochet 6 times (48 sts)

Round 9 :

*3 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc* crochet 6 times (54 sts)

Round 10 - 19 :

54 sc (10 rds) (54 sts)

Round 20 :

*3 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog, 4 sc* crochet 6 times (48 sts)

Round 21 :

*5 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog, 1 sc* crochet 6 times (42 sts)

Round 22 :

*1 inv-sc2tog, 5 sc* crochet 6 times (36 sts)

Round 23 :

*2 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog, 2 sc* crochet 6 times (30 sts)

Round 24 :

*3 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog* crochet 6 times (24 sts)

Info :

Set the eyes in place first. Make sure the working yarn of the head is at the back. Put the eyes between round 12 and 13, 8 stitches apart. Poke the eye shafts through to the inside of the head and fasten with the washers that came with them.

Info :

Stuff the head.

Round 25 :

*1 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog, 1 sc* crochet 6 time (18 sts)

Round 26 :

*7 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog* crochet twice (16 sts)

Info :

1 slst in next st, fasten off, leaving a 20"/50 cm tail, sk 1 st, 1 NJ in next st (see photo 1, page 6). Stuff the remaining head with fiberfill. Do not weave in end, use it for later to sew the head onto the body.

— Body :

Round 1 :

Magic ring: 1 ch (does not count as st), 8 sc in magic ring (8 sts)

Round 2 :

8 inc (16 sts)

Round 3 - 10 :

16 sc (8 rds) (16 sts)

Info :

1 slst in next st, FO, sk 1 st, 1 NJ in next st. The slst mark the center back of the body. Switch to yarn color B and work an uncounted rd of slst as follows: Insert hook in the NJ, yo, pull through lp. 1 slst in next st and all remaining sts. Work the last slst in the same st where the yarn was attached.

Round 11 :

(Work in the sts of rd 10), (see photo 9) *3 sc, 1 inc* crochet 4 times (20 sts) - mark the beginning of the rd with a stitch marker

Round 12 :

20 sc (20 sts)

Round 13 :

1 sc, 1 inc, *4 sc, 1 inc* crochet 3 times, 3 sc (24 sts)

Round 14 :

24 sc (24 sts)

Round 15 :

*3 sc, 1 inc* crochet 6 times (30 sts)

Round 16 :

30 sc (30 sts)

Round 17 :

1 sc, 1 inc, *4 sc, 1 inc* crochet 5 times, 3 sc (36 sts)

Round 18 :

36 sc (36 sts)

Round 19 :

*1 inc, 5 sc* crochet 6 times (42 sts)

Round 20 :

42 sc (42 sts)

Round 21 :

5 sc, *1 inc, 6 sc* crochet 5 times, 1 inc, 1 sc (48 sts)

Round 22 - 23 :

48 sc (2 rds) (48 sts)

Info :

Now work the first layer of the dress. Continue working in spiral rounds. See also crochet chart 1 on page 35. The chains are included in the stitch count at the end of each rd.

Layer I, Round 1 :

(work all sts FLO) *1 sc, 1 ch, sk 2 sts, [1 inc, 1 ch, 1 inc], 1 ch, sk 2 sts* crochet 8 times (64 sts)

Layer I, Round 2 :

*1 sc in next sc, 1 ch, [1 inc, 2 ch, 1 inc] in next ch1-sp, 1 ch* crochet 8 times (72 sts)

Layer I, Round 3 :

*1 sc in next sc, 1 ch, [3 sc, 2 ch, 3 sc] in next ch2-sp, 1 ch* crochet 8 times (88 sts)

Layer I, Round 4 :

*1 sc in next sc, 1 ch, [3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc] in next ch2-sp, 1 ch* crochet 8 times (88 sts)

Layer I, Round 5 :

*1 sc in next sc, 1 ch, [3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc] in next ch2-sp, 1 ch* crochet 8 times (104 sts)

Layer I, Round 6 :

*1 sc in next sc, 1 ch, [3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc] in next ch2-sp, 1 ch* crochet 8 times, FO, 1 NJ in next sc (88 sts)

Round 24 :

(work BLO in the sts of rd 23) 1 s-sc, 47 sc (48 sts)

Round 25 - 26 :

48 sc (2 rds) (48 sts)

Info :

Now work the second layer of the dress. Continue working in spiral rounds.

Layer II, Round 1 :

(work all sts FLO) *2 sc, 1 inc* crochet 16 times (64 sts)

Layer II, Round 2 - 3 :

64 sc (64 sts)

Layer II, Round 4 :

*3 sc, 1 inc* crochet 16 times (80 sts)

Layer II, Round 5 - 10 :

80 sc (80 sts)

Layer II, Round 11 :

(work all sts FLO) 80 slst (80 sts)

Layer II, Round 12 :

(work BLO in the sts of rd 10) *4 slst, 3 ch* crochet 20 times, FO, 1 NJ in 1st slst (80 sts)

Round 27 :

(work BLO in the sts of rd 26) 1 s-sc, 47 sc (48 sts)

Round 28 - 29 :

48 sc (2 rds) (48 sts)

Info :

Now work the third layer of the dress. Working in joined rounds. The beginning '1 sc-1 ch' and the ending slst of each rd count together as a double crochet stitch. See also crochet chart 2 on page 36.

Layer III, Round 1 :

(work all sts FLO) 1 sc, 1 ch, 4 dc, [2 dc], *5 dc, [2 dc]* crochet 7 times, 1 slst in 1st dc (56 sts)

Layer III, Round 2 :

1 ch (does not count as st), 1 sc in same st where slst of previous rd was made, 1 ch, 2 dc, [2 dc], *6 dc, [2 dc]* crochet 7 times, 3 dc, 1 slst in 1st dc (64 sts)

Layer III, Round 3 :

1 ch (does not count as st), 1 sc in same st where slst of previous rd was made, 1 ch, 6 dc, [2 dc], *7 dc, [2 dc]* crochet 7 times, 1 slst in 1st dc (72 sts)

Layer III, Round 4 :

1 ch (does not count as st), *1 sc, 1 ch, sk 2 sts, [2 dc, 1 ch, 2 dc], 1 ch, sk 2 sts* crochet 12 times (96 sts)

Layer III, Round 5 - 6 :

*1 sc in next sc, 1 ch, [3 dc, 1 ch, 3 dc] in next ch1-sp, 1 ch* crochet 12 times (120 sts)

Layer III, Round 7 :

*1 sc in next sc, [5 dc, 1 ch, 5 dc] in next ch1-sp* crochet 12 times, FO, 1 NJ in next sc (144 sts)

Round 30 :

(work BLO in the sts of rd 29) 1 s-sc, 47 sc (48 sts)

Round 31 - 32 :

48 sc (48 sts)

Info :

Now work the fourth layer of the dress. Working in joined rounds. The beginning '1 sc-1 ch' and the ending slst of each rd count together as a double crochet stitch.

Layer IV, Round 1 :

(work all sts FLO) 1 sc, 1 ch, 4 dc, [2 dc], *5 dc, [2 dc]* crochet 7 times, 1 slst in 1st dc (56 sts)

Layer IV, Round 2 :

1 ch (does not count as st), 1 sc in same st where slst of previous rd was made, 1 ch, 1 dc, [2 dc], *6 dc, [2 dc]* crochet 7 times, 4 dc, 1 slst in 1st dc (64 sts)

Layer IV, Round 3 :

1 ch (does not count as st), 1 sc in same st where slst of previous rd was made, 1 ch, 6 dc, [2 dc], *7 dc, [2 dc]* crochet 7 times, 1 slst in 1st dc (72 sts)

Layer IV, Round 4 :

1 ch (does not count as st), 1 sc in same st where slst of previous rd was made, 1 ch, 4 dc, [2 dc], *8 dc, [2 dc]* crochet 7 times, 3 dc, 1 slst in 1st dc (80 sts)

Layer IV, Round 5 :

(work all sts FLO), 1 ch (does not count as st), 80 sc (80 sts)

Layer IV, Round 6 - 13 :

80 sc (8 rds) (80 sts)

Layer IV, Round 14 :

(work all sts FLO) 80 slst (80 sts)

Layer IV, Round 15 :

(work BLO in the sts of rd 13)* 4 slst, 3 ch* crochet 20 times, FO, 1 NJ in 1st slst (80 sts)

Info :

Now work the fifth layer of the dress. Working in joined rounds. The beginning '1 sc-1 ch' and the ending slst of each rd count together as a double crochet stitch. Fasten on the yarn in any st at the back of the body.

Layer V, Round 1 :

(work BLO in the sts of rd 4, layer IV) 1 s-sc, 1 ch, 79 dc, 1 slst in 1st dc (80 sts)

Layer V, Round 2 - 3 :

1 ch (does not count as st), 1 sc in same st where slst of previous rd was made, 1 ch, 79 dc, 1 slst in 1st dc (80 sts)

Layer V, Round 4 :

1 ch (does not count as st), 80 sc (80 sts)

Layer V, Round 5 - 6 :

80 sc (80 sts)

Layer V, Round 7 :

*9 sc, 1 inc* crochet 8 times (88 sts)

Layer V, Round 8 - 9 :

88 sc (88 sts)

Layer V, Round 10 :

(work all sts FLO) 88 slst (88 sts)

Layer V, Round 11 :

(work BLO in the sts of rd 9)* 4 slst, 3 ch* crochet 22 times, FO, 1 NJ in 1st slst (88 sts)

Info :

Photo 10 shows the finished dress. Next crochet the collar (see photo 11). Make sure the neck of the body is pointing towards you. Work in the slip stitches BLO of the uncounted rd you worked after finishing rd 10 of the body. Mark a st at the front of the body, lining up with the lace. Attach the yarn color B in the st (BLO) to the left of the marked st. Work in rows. The turning chain does not count as st.

Collar, Round 1 :

1 ch (does not count as st), *1 sc, 1 inc* crochet 7 times, 1 sc, 1 ch, turn work (22 sts)

Collar, Round 2 :

sk 1 st, 2 sc, *1 inc, 2 sc* crochet 5 times, 1 inc, 1 sc, ch, turn work (26 sts)

Collar, Round 3 :

sk 1 st, 23 sc, sk 1 st, [3 sc], (work sidewise in the edge sts of rd 1) 1 sc, 1 slst in same st where last st of rd 1 was made, 1 slst in next "free" slst of the uncounted rd of the body, 1 slst in same st where first st of rd 1 was made, (work sidewise in the edge sts of rd 1-2) 2 sc, [1 sc, 1 slst] in next st, FO, sk 1 st, 1 NJ in next st (34 sts incl. slst)

Info :

Continue with the body. Now you are starting with the leggings of the doll. Use the yarn color C. Attach yarn in any st (BLO) at center back. Work all sts of rd 1 of the leggings in the BL of the sts of rd 32 of the body (see photo 12).

Round 33 :

(work all sts BLO) 1 s-sc, 47 sc (48 sts)

Round 34 - 42 :

48 sc (9 rds) (48 sts)

Round 43 :

*6 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog* crochet 6 times (42 sts)

Round 44 :

2 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog, *5 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog* crochet 5 times, 3 sc (36 sts)

Round 45 :

*4 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog* crochet 6 times (30 sts)

Round 46 :

1 sc, *1 inv-sc2tog, 3 sc* crochet 5 times, 1 inv-sc2tog, 2 sc (24 sts)

Info :

Stuff the body. Stuff the neck and the upper part of the body firmly, so the neck has the stability to hold the head in place.

Round 47 :

*2 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog* crochet 6 times (18 sts)

Round 48 :

*1 inv-sc2tog, 1 sc* crochet 6 times (12 sts)

Round 49 :

6 inv-sc2tog (6 sts)

Info :

Cut yarn, leaving a 12"/30 cm tail. Stuff the remaining body with fiberfill. Close the hole as described on page 6. Your body should have approximately the following dimensions: see photo 13.

— Arm/Sleeve :

Round 1 :

Magic ring: 1 ch (does not count as st), 6 sc in magic ring (6 sts)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12 sts)

Round 3 :

*1 sc, 1 inc* crochet 6 times (18 sts)

Round 4 - 6 :

18 sc (3 rds) (18 sts)

Round 7 :

16 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog (17 sts)

Round 8 :

7 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog, 7 sc, 1 CL-6 (16 sts)

Round 9 :

14 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog (15 sts)

Round 10 :

1 inv-sc2tog, 13 sc (14 sts)

Round 11 :

6 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog, 6 sc (13 sts)

Round 12 :

11 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog (12 sts)

Round 13 :

4 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog, 6 sc (11 sts)

Round 14 :

9 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog (10 sts)

Round 15 - 17 :

10 sc (3 rds) (10 sts)

Round 18 :

10 sc, 1 slst in next st, FO, sk 1 st, 1 NJ in next st (10 sts)

Info :

Switch to yarn color B to work the sleeve. Before starting the sleeve cut a length of 10 m (11 yds) of the yarn color B and keep to one side ready to work the cuff of the sleeve (or use the other yarn tail of the ball). Attach the yarn in any st of rd 18 that is at the back of the arm (opposite of the thumb).

Round 19 :

1 s-sc, 9 sc (10 sts)

Round 20 :

(work all sts BLO) 10 sc (10 sts)

Round 21 - 25 :

10 sc (5 rds) (10 sts)

Info :

Place working yarn loop on a locking stitch marker and crochet the cuff of the sleeve. Make sure the hand points away from you. Use the extra length of the yarn color B or use the other yarn tail of the ball and rejoin the yarn in any st (FL) of rd 19 that lies opposite of the thumb. Work in spiral rounds.

Cuff, Round 1 :

(work FLO in the sts of rd 19) *1 sc (the 1st sc of the rd will be a s-sc), 1 inc* crochet 5 times (15 sts)

Cuff, Round 2 - 3 :

15 sc (15 sts)

Cuff, Round 4 :

*2 sc, 1 inc* crochet 5 times (20 sts)

Cuff, Round 5 - 6 :

20 sc (20 sts)

Cuff, Round 7 :

*4 sc, 1 inc* crochet 4 times (24 sts)

Cuff, Round 8 - 9 :

24 sc (24 sts)

Cuff, Round 10 :

*5 sc, 1 inc* crochet 4 times (28 sts)

Cuff, Round 11 :

28 sc (28 sts)

Cuff, Round 12 :

(work all sts BLO), *4 slst, 3 ch* crochet 7 times (28 sts)

Cuff, Round 13 :

(work FLO in the sts of rd 11) 28 slst (28 sts)

Info :

FO, 1 NJ in next st. Replace loop of yarn color B on the hook and finish the arm/sleeve.

Round 26 - 34 :

10 sc (9 rds) (10 sts)

Round 35 :

*3 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog* crochet twice (8 sts)

Round 36 :

*1 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog, 1 sc* crochet twice (6 sts)

Info :

Stuff the remaining sleeve with fiberfill. Cut yarn, leaving a 12"/30 cm tail. Close the hole as described on page 6 (see also photo 32).

— Leg :

Round 1 :

(work all sc in BB of the chains) 6 ch, 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 3 sc, [3 sc], bottom side of chain: 3 sc, 1 inc (12 sts)

Round 2 :

1 inc, 3 sc, 3 inc, 3 sc, 2 inc (18 sts)

Round 3 :

1 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc, *1 inc, 1 sc* crochet 3 times, 3 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc, 1 inc (24 sts)

Round 4 :

1 sc, 1 inc, 6 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc, 2 inc, 1 sc, 1 inc, 6 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc, 2 inc (32 sts)

Round 5 :

1 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, *1 inc, 1 sc* crochet 2 times, *1 sc, 1 inc* crochet 2 times, 4 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, *1 inc, 1 sc* crochet 2 times (42 sts)

Round 6 - 10 :

42 sc (5 rds) (42 sts)

Round 11 :

12 sc, *1 inv-sc2tog, 2 sc* crochet 3 times, 1 inv-sc2tog, 16 sc (38 sts)

Round 12 :

8 sc, *1 inv-sc2tog, 1 sc* crochet 3 times, *1 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog* crochet 3 times, 12 sc (32 sts)

Info :

Put the cardboard or plastic inside the foot.

Round 13 :

7 sc, 7 inv-sc2tog, 11 sc (25 sts)

Round 14 :

8 sc, 2 hdc, 1 hdc2tog, 1 hdc, 12 sc (24 sts)

Round 15 :

*4 sc, 1 sc2tog* crochet 4 times (20 sts)

Round 16 - 17 :

20 sc (2 rds) (20 sts)

Round 18 :

*3 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog* crochet 4 times (16 sts)

Round 19 - 21 :

16 sc (3 rds) (16 sts)

Round 22 :

16 sc, 1 slst in next st, FO, sk 1 st, 1 NJ in next st (16 sts)

Info :

Now work the leggings. Switch to yarn color C. Before starting the leggings cut a length of 3 m (just over 3 yds) of the yarn color C and keep to one side ready to work the turn-up of the leggings (or use the other yarn tail of the ball). Fasten on the new yarn in the NJ of previous rd.

Round 23 :

(work all sts BLO) 16 sc (16 sts)

Round 24 - 30 :

16 sc (7 rds) (16 sts)

Turn-up, Round 1 :

(work in the sts of rd 22 FLO) 1 s-sc, 15 sc (16 sts)

Turn-up, Round 2 :

16 sc (16 sts)

Turn-up, Round 3 :

16 sc, 1 slst, FO, sk 1 st, 1 NJ in next st (16 sts)

Turn-up, Round 4 :

Switch to yarn color D. Attach the new yarn in any st at the back of the leg. 1 ch (count as 1st st), 15 sc, FO, 1 NJ in next st (16 sts)

Round 31 - 43 :

16 sc (13 rds) (16 sts)

Round 44 :

*2 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog* crochet 4 times (12 sts)

Round 45 :

*1 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog* crochet 4 times (8 sts)

Info :

Cut yarn, leaving a 12"/30 cm tail. Stuff the remaining leg with fiberfill. Close the hole as described on page 6. Photo 19 shows the finished leg.

— Shoes :

Info :

Work the shoe in spiral rounds, in turned (joined) rounds and in rows. Starting at sole, with hook US 4 (3.5 mm) and the yarn color E. Start working in spiral rounds.

Round 1 - 5 :

repeat rd 1-5 of the leg (see page 16) (42 sts)

Round 6 :

42 sc, 1 slst in next st (42 sts)

Round 7 :

1 ch (does not count as st), 42 bpsc (for the 1st bpsc insert hook from back to front in same st where slst of previous rd was made), FO, sk 1 st, 1 NJ in next st (42 sts)

Info :

Based on the NJ of rd 7 count 9 sts to the right and place a marker in this 9th st. Switch to yarn color F. Working a joined round. Attach yarn in any st at the back of the heel. When you reach the marker place 1 rd higher in same st.

Round 8 :

1 ch (count as st), 41 sc, FO, 1 NJ in 1st sc (the NJ and the underlying ch count together as a sc) (42 sts)

Info :

Switch to yarn color G and hook US 1½ or 2.5 mm. Attach yarn in marked st. Working in turned (joined) rounds. The turning ch does not count as st.

Round 9 (RS) :

1 ch (count as st), 41 sc, 1 slst in 1st sc (the slst and the underlying ch count together as a sc), 1 ch, turn work (42 sts)

Round 10 - 12 :

42 sc, 1 slst in 1st sc, 1 ch, turn work (42 sts)

Row 1 (RS) :

13 sc, 1 ch, turn work (13 sts)

Row 2 :

6 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog, 5 sc, 1 ch, turn work (12 sts)

Row 3 - 4 :

12 sc, 1 ch, turn work (12 sts)

Row 5 :

1 inc, 1 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog, 4 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog, 1 sc, 1 inc, 1 ch, turn work (12 sts)

Row 6 :

12 sc, 1 ch, turn work (12 sts)

Info :

Now work 2 rounds around the whole shoe. Work in spiral rounds.

Final Round 1 (RS) :

11 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc each sidewise in the edge sts of row 5-1 (= 5 sc), 8 sc, 3 inv-sc2tog, 1 sc, 3 inv-sc2tog, 8 sc, 1 sc each sidewise in the edge sts of row 1-4 (= 4 sc), 1 inc sidewise in the edge sts of row 5 (47 sts)

Final Round 2 :

12 slst, sk 2 sts, [3 dc, 1 ch, 3 dc], sk 2 sts, 23 slst, sk 2 sts, [3 dc, 1 ch, 3 dc], sk 2 sts, FO, 1 NJ in next st (incl. slst and ch) (49 sts)

Info :

Weave in all loose ends. Use the hook US 1½ or 2.5 mm and the yarn color L. Work approx. 75 chains and thread the shoelace. Tie the ends and make a loop. Photo 20 shows the finished shoes.

— Coat and Granny Squares :

Info :

The coat consists of the body part and the two sleeves. For the coat you have to work 20 granny squares - three for each sleeve and 14 for the body part. You need also 6 triangles for the body part of the coat. After finishing the granny squares and the triangles you have to join them and work additional rows to complete the coat. For all parts of the coat use the hook US 1½ (2.5 mm). Start with the granny squares. Because you will change color every round, finish the round with a NJ. I have used 4 different colors (G, H, K and L) for the granny squares. Use any 3 yarn colors of your choice for each granny square. Use the crochet chart 3 on page 37 also.

Granny Square (make 20) - Round 1 :

Start with 1st yarn color of your choice. Magic ring: 1 ch (does not count as st), 1 sc, 1 ch (sc and ch count together as 1st dc), 11 dc in magic ring, FO, 1 NJ in 1st dc (12 sts)

Granny Square - Round 2 :

Switch to 2nd yarn color of your choice. Fasten on between any 2 dc. 1 ch (count as 1st sc), 1 ch, *1 sc between next 2 dc, 1 ch* crochet 11 times, FO, 1 NJ in 2nd ch (24 sts incl. ch)

Assembly Instructions

  • Attach the head to the body by aligning the head opening with the neck and sewing through the final round tail left from Round 26 of the head; use the long tail and a tapestry needle to whipstitch around the neck opening and secure tightly so the head sits centered and stable.
  • Position and sew the arms to the sides of the body using the tail left from the arm opening; align the top of each arm with the body around the area where the sleeve joins (attach the arm in any st at the back of the body as noted for alignment) and sew with small invisible stitches to secure.
  • Insert cardboard or plastic into each shoe sole before finishing the shoe upper; after attaching the sole, place the shoes on the feet and sew the shoe to the bottom of each leg securely, checking alignment so the doll stands evenly.
  • Join granny squares for the coat as indicated and sew the coat to the body by aligning the shoulder seams; attach sleeves to the armholes and sew buttons to the front placket using a strong thread so the coat closes neatly.
  • Sew the wig to the head using sewing thread: place wig centered on scalp, tack the front edge first, then sew around the perimeter, trimming and styling the wig as desired.
  • Weave in all yarn ends and hide tails inside the body or accessories; block or lightly steam the garment pieces if needed to shape lace and edges before final stitching.

Important Notes

  • 💡Use stitch markers to keep track of round beginnings, especially when working in spiral rounds and when changing colors for the dress layers.
  • 💡Stuff firmly but in small increments to maintain rounded shapes; use a stuffing tool (chopstick) to get fiberfill into narrow areas.
  • 💡Place cardboard or plastic in the shoe soles to give the doll stability so the finished model can stand upright without bulging soles.
  • 💡Change hook size when crocheting garments that will fit over other pieces (wig on head, shoe on foot) as recommended in the introduction to get proper fit.
  • 💡Weave in ends as you go and use needle-join (NJ) to finish rounds neatly when color changes require a tidy join.

This Doll Zoey pattern combines delicate lace dress layers, a playful granny square coat and small accessories for a delightful handmade keepsake. The detailed instructions and photos guide you through shaping, stuffing and assembly so you can finish a polished heirloom-quality doll. Make Zoey for yourself or as a heartfelt gift that will be treasured for years to come. 🧶😊

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FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The finished doll measures approximately 12 1/4" or 31 cm when using the recommended yarn and hook sizes.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can use different yarn weights, but this will affect the final size and fabric stiffness; use cotton for firm shape or choose wool/acrylic for softer clothes, and adjust hook sizes accordingly.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate, so basic knowledge of crochet stitches, working in rounds, invisible decreases and joining motifs is recommended for best results.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crocheters complete this project in 12-15 hours, depending on experience, speed and the time spent on finishing details and assembly.