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Anglerfish SAM Amigurumi Pattern

Anglerfish SAM Amigurumi Pattern
4.0★ Rating
12-15 Hours Time Needed
2.0K Made This
✂️

Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Multi-Day Project

A rewarding 12+ hour journey—perfect for dedicated crafters who love detailed work.

🧸

Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

About This Anglerfish SAM Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern creates a whimsical anglerfish named SAM — a stuffed toy that can double as an interior decoration or night lamp. It features a sculpted lower jaw and muzzle, multiple types of fins with wired reinforcement, and crocheted teeth for a dramatic smile. You'll learn to work small rounds, join rays to make fins, and reinforce parts with wire for poseability.

Anglerfish SAM Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

The instructions are detailed and richly illustrated to guide you through every step of creating SAM. Materials include smooth multicolor yarn, cotton floss for small features, beads, and a small LED bulb for the lamp.

Why You'll Love This Anglerfish SAM Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it lets me combine amigurumi crochet with small-scale engineering — adding wire frames and a tiny lamp turns a toy into a functional and dramatic decorative piece. I enjoy the variety in techniques: tiny stitches for teeth, joining multiple 'rays' to build fins, and shaping large curved surfaces for the jaw. Each project becomes a little adventure because the fish seems to come alive as you stuff and wire the parts. I also love how customizable SAM is — change the yarn colors, bead accents, or lamp style to make your own personality-filled fish.

Anglerfish SAM Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Anglerfish SAM Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Anglerfish SAM Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Anglerfish SAM Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how versatile this pattern is and I often customize the colors — try a softer pastel palette for a nursery-friendly anglerfish or jewel tones for a more dramatic display.

Want a larger SAM? Use a bulkier yarn and a larger hook, and lengthen the wire frames proportionally to keep the poseability intact.

I sometimes swap the LED keychain bulb for a battery tea-light for safer indoor display, or use a small glass bead for a non-electrical lamp look.

Embellish the body with extra beads or embroidery to create scales, or sew on felt patches for whimsical patterns.

You can replace crocheted eyes with safety eyes, beads, or polymer clay to change expression and scale; try different eye sizes to experiment with character.

For a fun set, make multiple SAMs in varying sizes and colors and mount them on a shelved display to create an 'ocean gallery'.

I also like to change the texture by alternating blo or flo rows across the body to create subtle ribs.

Try adding wire inside some teeth to make a dramatic grin that holds its shape, or make removable accessories like tiny hats or scarves for seasonal touches.

If you prefer softer toys for children, omit wire and opt for a larger hook and plush yarn to maintain shape without rigid elements.

To make the piece extra special, wrap a thin ribbon around the lamp frame or add a crochet collar to the neck; these small touches make each SAM uniquely yours.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping stitch markers while working large joined contours will make it hard to track your place; use markers and shift stitches to keep the center line accurate. ✗ Overstuffing the finger-rays or fins will make them bulky and distort the shape; stuff finger-rays lightly and only to shape, not to overfill. ✗ Cutting the yarn after the first ray mistakes the joining process; cut the yarn only as instructed and continue working from the marker of the second ray. ✗ Not reinforcing fins with wire can cause sagging or twisting over time; insert and wrap copper wire as instructed and tape the ends to avoid pokes. ✗ Forgetting to change to multicolor yarn when instructed will alter visual details; follow color-change notes precisely where the pattern requests them.

Anglerfish SAM Amigurumi Pattern

Make a whimsical Anglerfish named SAM with this detailed intermediate amigurumi pattern. You will create a sculpted fish body with a lamp, articulated fins and playful teeth — perfect as a night lamp or quirky home decor. The pattern includes clear step-by-step rounds, finishing tips and wiring instructions so you can build a poseable, sturdy piece you will be proud of.

Intermediate 12-15 Hours

Materials Needed for Anglerfish SAM Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Vita Brilliant Print multicolor yarn (45% wool, 55% acrylic, 380 m/100 g) - about 1.5 skeins
  • 02
    Vita Brilliant solid yarn (main solid color) - about half a skein
  • 03
    Vita Pelican mercerized cotton (100% cotton, 330 m/50 g) white (3951) - small leftovers for eyes/teeth
  • 04
    Vita Pelican mercerized cotton colors yellow (3998), silver gray (3965), black (3952) - leftovers for light bulb detail

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size 1.0-1.5 mm (use 1.5 mm for main construction; 1.0-1.25 mm for teeth)
  • 02
    1.0 mm or 1.25 mm crochet hook for teeth
  • 03
    1.5 mm crochet hook (main)
  • 04
    1.0-1.5 mm copper wire - approx. 6 m (for fins and spine)
  • 05
    Wire cutter
  • 06
    White fabric plaster or insulation tape (to wrap wire ends)
  • 07
    Toy eyes, beads or semi beads for eyes (approx. 12 mm size recommended, 2 items)
  • 08
    Small LED light bulb keychain lamp (recommend ordering two spare bulbs)
  • 09
    Scissors
  • 10
    Sewing needle and yarn needle for assembly
  • 11
    Stitch markers
  • 12
    Polyester stuffing
  • 13
    Pins for assembly
  • 14
    Transparent glue (optional for gluing eyes)
  • 15
    Nylon thread and fine needle for sewing on beads

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— FINS :

— Side fin :

Make two with solid yarn and 1.5 mm crochet hook following the instructions. Start with finger-rays using solid yarn and 1.5 mm crochet hook. The following instructions are given for one fin!

Round 1 :

A - 2 rays: Make a MR, 6 sc into the ring. (6)

Round 2 :

2 sc in each st around (12)

Round 3 :

(3 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 3 (15)

Round 4-5 :

sc in each st around (15)

Round 6 :

(3 sc, 2 sc tog) * 3 (12)

Round 7 :

(sc, 2 sc tog) * 4 (8)

Round 8-10 :

sc in each st around (8)

Info :

After having made one ray, cut off the yarn, but do not cut the yarn after having made the second ray. Continue working from the marker of the second ray.

Round 11 :

B - 2 rays: 2 sc in next st, 2 sc, (2 sc in next st) * 2, 2 sc, 2 sc in next st (12). Fasten off, weave in the end.

Info :

Join the rays together according to the diagram and instructions. This sign means increase of the previous rnd, so follow the diagram to match fingers and increases. When joining rays you DO NOT have to make increases or decreases. To avoid holes when joining, draw up one more loop through the same place where you have just made a sc as you are going to make another sc but do not crochet it. You will have two sts on the hook. Then draw up another loop through the st in the previous rnd of the other ray. You will have 3 sts on the hook. Make a sc through all 3 sts. It looks like you have made increase and decrease at the same time and in the end you have only one sc.

Round 1 :

Join the rays together according to the diagram shown above: 4 sc around finger "A" (make the 4th sc as described above to avoid holes), 6 sc around finger "B", 6 sc around finger "B", 8 sc around finger "A"; turn work and continue in the opposite direction: 6 sc around finger "B", 6 sc around finger "B", 4 sc around finger "A" (40).

Round 2 :

2 sc tog, 16 sc, (2 sc tog) * 2, 16 sc, 2 sc tog (36) + shift st

Round 3 :

(16 sc, 2 sc tog) * 2 (34)

Round 4 :

(15 sc, 2 sc tog) * 2 (32) + shift st

Round 5 :

(14 sc, 2 sc tog) * 2 (30)

Round 6 :

(13 sc, 2 sc tog) * 2 (28) + shift st

Round 7 :

(12 sc, 2 sc tog) * 2 (26)

Round 8 :

(11 sc, 2 sc tog) * 2 (24) + shift st

Round 9 :

(10 sc, 2 sc tog) * 2 (22). Change the yarn into the multicolor yarn.

Round 10 :

(9 sc, 2 sc tog) * 2 (20) + shift st

Round 11-13 :

sc in each st around (20) + shift st

Round 14 :

(9 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 2 (22)

Round 15 :

(10 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 2 (24). Fasten off and weave in the end. Stuff the finger-rays with polyester (do not stuff too tightly!). Do not stuff the fin itself.

Info :

Reinforce the fin. You will need at least 120 cm of wire for one fin (it is much better to cut off excess wire than to add more). Insert the even parts of the wire into each finger so the ends coming out of the fin even. One end of the wire will make the frame of the fishing line and the other end will form the spine of the fish.

— Lower fin :

Make one with solid yarn and 1.5 mm crochet hook following the instructions. Instructions how to make finger-rays:

Round 1 :

A - 2 rays: Make a MR, 6 sc into the ring (6)

Round 2 :

2 sc in each st around (12)

Round 3 :

(3 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 3 (15)

Round 4-5 :

sc in each st around (15)

Round 6 :

(3 sc, 2 sc tog) * 3 (12)

Round 7 :

(sc, 2 sc tog) * 4 (8)

Round 8-9 :

sc in each st around (8)

Info :

After having made one ray, cut off the yarn and weave in the end, but do not cut the yarn after having made the second ray. Continue working from the marker of the second ray.

Round 10 :

10) 2 sc in next at, 2 sc, (2 sc in next st) * 2, 2 sc, 2 sc in next st (12). Fasten off, weave in the end.

Info :

Join the rays together according the following instructions. This sign means increase of the previous rnd, so the diagram shows how to place fingers "B" and at what places to join finger "B" to finger "A". When joining rays together you DO NOT have to make these increases!

Join Step 1 :

Join the rays together according to the diagram shown above: 4 sc around finger "A", 6 sc around finger "B", 8 sc around finger "A", turn work and continue in the opposite direction: 6 sc around finger "B", 4 sc around finger "A" (28).

Round 2 :

(2 sc in next st, 13 sc) * 2 (30) + shift st

Round 3 :

(2 sc in next st, 14 sc) * 2 (32)

Round 4 :

(2 sc in next st, 15 sc) * 2 (34). Fasten off and weave in the end. Do not insert the wire at this step. Stuff the finger-rays with polyester (do not stuff too tightly!). Do not stuff the fin itself.

— Dorsal fin :

Make one with solid yarn and 1.5 mm crochet hook following the instructions. Attention! In order not to mix the fingers I recommend grouping them and labeling them with name labels (see Appendix).

Info :

Instructions how to make finger-rays for dorsal fin A - 1 ray, B - 1 ray, C - 2 rays, D - 3 rays, E - 1 ray:

Round 1 :

1) Make a MR, 6 sc into the ring.

Round 2 :

2) 2 sc in each st around (12)

Round 3 :

3) (3 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 3 (15)

Round 4-5 :

sc in each st around (15)

Round 6 :

6) (3 sc, 2 sc tog) * 3 (12)

Round 7 :

7) (sc, 2 sc tog) * 4 (8)

Round 8-12 :

8-12) sc in each st around (8) (for 8-12 accordingly by ray)

Info :

Do not cut the yarn; continue working from the marker of this ray. For rays with multiple repeats: follow table counts; then make 2 sc in next st, 2 sc, (2 sc in next st) * 2, 2 sc, 2 sc in next st (12). Fasten off, weave in the end.

Join Step :

Join the rays together according to the diagram for dorsal fin: 4 sc around finger "A", 6 sc around finger "B", 6 sc around finger "C", 6 sc around finger "C", 5 sc, (2 sc in next st) * 2, 5 sc around finger "D", turn work and continue in the opposite direction: 6 sc around finger "C", 6 sc around finger "C", 6 sc around finger "B", 4 sc around finger "A" (58).

Round :

2) Join the rays together according to the diagram: 2 sc in next st, 28 sc around the item you have just made, 5 sc, (2 sc in next st) * 2, 5 sc around finger "D", turn work and continue in the opposite direction: 29 sc around the item you have just made (73) + shift st.

Round :

2) join the rays together according to the diagram shown below: 2 sc in next st, 36 sc around the item you have just made, 5 sc, (2 sc in next st) * 2, 5 sc around finger "D", turn work and continue in the opposite direction: 36 sc around the item you have just made (88).

Round 4 :

Join the rays together according to the diagram shown below: 2 sc in next st, 43 sc around the item you have just made, 3 sc, 2 sc in next st, 4 sc around finger "E", turn work and continue in the opposite direction: 44 sc around the item you have just made (98).

Round 5 :

(2 sc in next st, 48 sc) * 2 (100) + shift st

Round 6 :

(2 sc in next st, 49 sc) * 2 (102) + shift st

Round 7 :

(2 sc in next st, 50 sc) * 2 (104). Fasten off and weave in the end. Do not insert the wire at this step. The item you have just made may twist; inserting the wire later will stop twisting. Stuff the finger-rays with polyester (do not stuff too tightly!). Do not stuff the fin itself.

— Tail :

Make one with solid yarn and 1.5 mm crochet hook following the instructions. Instructions how to make finger-rays:

Round 1 :

A - 2 rays: Make a MR, 6 sc into the ring.

Round 2 :

2 sc in each st around (12)

Round 3 :

(3 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 3 (15)

Round 4-5 :

sc in each st around (15)

Round 6 :

(3 sc, 2 sc tog) * 3 (12)

Round 7 :

(sc, 2 sc tog) * 4 (8)

Round 8-11 :

A: sc in each st around (8) / B: sc in each st around (8)

Info :

Do not cut the yarn; continue working from the marker of this ray for A; B fasten off and weave in the end; C (single ray) 2 sc in next st, 2 sc, (2 sc in next st) * 2, 2 sc, 2 sc in next st (12). Fasten off, weave in the end.

Join Step 1 :

Join the rays together according to the diagram shown above: 4 sc around finger "A", 6 sc around finger "C", 3 sc, 2 sc in next st, 4 sc around finger "B", turn work and continue in the opposite direction: 6 sc around finger "C", 3 sc, 2 sc in next st around finger "A" (30).

Round 2 :

(14 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 2 (32)

Round 3 :

(15 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 2 (34)

Info :

Fasten off and weave in the end. Reinforce the tail. Fold the tail in half. Cut 1 m of wire, insert even parts of the wire into the rays so the ends coming out of the tail are even. Take the ends of the wire in the upper and lower edges of the tail between Rnds 8 and 9. Wrap the ends of the wire with plaster.

Round 5 :

Continue working: (2 sc tog, 22 sc, 2 sc tog) * 2 (48)

Round 6 :

(2 sc tog, 20 sc, 2 sc tog) * 2 (44)

Round 7 :

(2 sc tog, 18 sc, 2 sc tog) * 2 (40)

Round 8 :

(2 sc tog, 16 sc, 2 sc tog) * 2 (36)

Round 9 :

(2 sc tog, 14 sc, 2 sc tog) * 2 (32)

Round 10 :

(2 sc tog, 12 sc, 2 sc tog) * 2 (28)

Round 11 :

(2 sc tog, 10 sc, 2 sc tog) * 2 (24)

Round 12 :

(2 sc tog, 8 sc, 2 sc tog) * 2 (20)

Round 13 :

(2 sc tog, 6 sc, 2 sc tog) * 2 (16)

Round 14 :

(2 sc tog, 4 sc, 2 sc tog) * 2 (12). Fasten off and weave in the end. Stuff the finger-rays and the tail with polyester. Put 2 "B" fingers aside. You will use them later. You now have this funny tail.

— Body :

— Lower jaw :

Make one with multicolor yarn and 1.5 mm crochet hook following the instructions. The marker goes along the side edge of the jaw. You do not have to change its position.

Round 1 :

Make a MR, 6 sc into the ring. (6)

Round 2 :

2 sc in each st around (12)

Round 3 :

(sc, 2 sc in next st) * 6 (18)

Round 4 :

sc, 2 sc in next st, (2 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 5, sc (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 6 (30)

Round 6 :

2 sc, 2 sc in next st, (4 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 5, 2 sc (36)

Round 7 :

(5 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 6 (42)

Round 8 :

3 sc, 2 sc in next st, (6 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 5, 3 sc (48)

Round 9 :

(7 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 6 (54)

Round 10 :

4 sc, 2 sc in next st, (8 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 5, 4 sc (60)

Round 11 :

(9 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 6 (66)

Round 12 :

5 sc, 2 sc in next st, (10 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 5, 5 sc (72)

Round 13 :

(11 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 6 (78)

Round 14 :

6 sc, 2 sc in next st, (12 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 5, 6 sc (84)

Round 15 :

(13 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 6 (90)

Round 16 :

sc in each st around (90)

Round 17 :

7 sc, 2 sc in next st, (14 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 5, 7 sc (96)

Round 18 :

sc in each st around (96)

Round 19 :

(15 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 6 (102)

Round 20 :

sc in each st around (102)

Round 21 :

8 sc, 2 sc in next st, (16 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 5, 8 sc (108)

Round 22 :

sc in each st around (108)

Round 23 :

(35 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 3 (111)

Round 24 :

sc in each st around (111)

Round 25 :

18 sc, 2 sc in next st, (36 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 2, 18 sc (114)

Round 26 :

sc in each st around (114)

Round 27 :

(37 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 3 (117)

Round 28 :

sc in each st around (117)

Round 29 :

19 sc, 2 sc in next st, (38 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 2, 19 sc (120)

Round 30 :

sc in each st around (120)

Round 31 :

(39 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 3 (123)

Round 32 :

sc in each st around (123)

Round 33 :

20 sc, 2 sc in next st, (40 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 2, 20 sc (126)

Round 34-35 :

sc in each st around (126)

Round 36 :

(41 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 3 (129)

Round 37 :

sc in each st around (129)

Round 38 :

21 sc, 2 sc in next st, (42 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 2, 21 sc (132)

Round 39 :

((2 sc in next st) * 2, 64 sc) * 2 (136)

Round 40 :

sc, (2 sc in next st) * 2, 66 sc, (2 sc in next st) * 2, 65 sc (140)

Round 41 :

2 sc, (2 sc in next st) * 2, 68 sc, (2 sc in next st) * 2, 66 sc (144)

Round 42 :

3 sc, (2 sc in next st) * 2, 70 sc, (2 sc in next st) * 2, 67 sc (148), ss. Fasten off, weave in the end.

Info :

Now you have the lower jaw completed. Continue to make the muzzle and then join the muzzle and the lower jaw as instructed below.

— Muzzle :

Make one with multicolor yarn and 1.5 mm crochet hook following the instructions. The marker goes along the back. You do not need the change position of the marker before you start joining the muzzle and the jaw.

Round 1 :

Make a MR, 7 sc into the ring. (7)

Round 2 :

2 sc in each st around (14)

Round 3 :

(sc, 2 sc in next st) * 7 (21)

Round 4 :

sc, 2 sc in next st, (2 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 6, sc (28)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 7 (35)

Round 6 :

2 sc, 2 sc in next st, (4 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 6, 2 sc (42)

Round 7 :

3 sc, 2 sc in next st, (6 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 5, 3 sc (48)

Round 8 :

(7 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 6 (54)

Round 9 :

4 sc, 2 sc in next st, (8 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 5, 4 sc (60)

Round 10 :

(9 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 6 (66)

Round 11 :

5 sc, 2 sc in next st, (10 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 5, 5 sc (72)

Round 12 :

(11 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 6 (78)

Round 13 :

6 sc, 2 sc in next st, (12 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 5, 6 sc (84)

Round 14 :

sc in each st around (84)

Round 15 :

(13 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 6 (90)

Round 16 :

sc in each st around (90)

Round 17 :

7 sc, 2 sc in next st, (14 sc, 2 sc in next st) * 5, 7 sc (96)

Info :

Continue rounds as shown in the pattern: follow the counts carefully and change marker positions with shift sts to keep the center of the back aligned. You will later join the muzzle to the lower jaw by making sc around contours as described below.

Assembly Step 1 :

How to assemble the muzzle and the lower jaw: Fold the lower jaw to place the increases in opposite corners. There are 72 sts on the inner side of the jaw (including increases of the previous rnd) and 76 sts on the outer side of the jaw (including increases of the previous rnd). There are 148 sts in total on the lower jaw (76 + 72).

Assembly Step 2 :

Turn the muzzle so that the marker is in the center of the future back. The back comprises 57 sts, the inner part of the muzzle hiding under the lower jaw comprises 72 sts. The total number of sts for the muzzle is 129 sts (57 + 72). Start working from this marker.

Round :

1) 28 sc around the muzzle, then insert the hook into 29th st of the muzzle and between 1st and 2nd sts of the lower jaw (near the first increase), join the inner part of the lower jaw and the muzzle, make 72 sc inserting the hook through the sts of the muzzle and the jaw at the same time (you have to put the items RS facing each other and insert the hook from inside of the jaw), 29 sc around the muzzle till the marker (129).

Round :

2) 28 sc from the marker around the muzzle, insert the hook between 1st and 2nd sts near the increase of the lower jaw, 76 sc around the outer part of the lower jaw, 29 sc around the muzzle till the marker (133).

Round 3 :

3) 2 sc in next st, 132 sc (134)

Round 4 :

4) sc in each st around (134)

Round 5 :

5) 2 sc in next st, 133 sc (135)

Round 6-10 :

6-10) sc in each st around (135)

Round 11 :

11) 2 sc tog, 133 sc (134)

Round 12 :

12) (2 sc tog, 65 sc) * 2 (132)

Round 13 :

13) 32 sc, 2 sc tog, 64 sc, 2 sc tog, 32 sc (130)

Round 14 :

14) 16 sc, 2 sc tog, 94 sc, 2 sc tog, 16 sc (128)

Round 15 :

15) (2 sc tog, 62 sc) * 2 (126)

Round 16 :

16) 31 sc, 2 sc tog, 61 sc, 2 sc tog, 30 sc (124)

Round 17 :

17) 15 sc, 2 sc tog, 90 sc, 2 sc tog, 15 sc (122)

Round 18 :

18) 2 sc tog, 120 sc (121)

Round 19 :

19) 29 sc, 2 sc tog, 59 sc, 2 sc tog, 29 sc (119)

Round 20 :

20) 15 sc, 2 sc tog, 85 sc, 2 sc tog, 15 sc (117)

Round 21 :

21) 2 sc tog, 115 sc (116)

Round 22 :

22) 28 sc, 2 sc tog, 56 sc, 2 sc tog, 28 sc (114)

Round 23 :

23) 15 sc, 2 sc tog, 80 sc, 2 sc tog, 15 sc (112)

Round 24 :

24) 2 sc tog, 110 sc (111)

Round 25 :

25) 27 sc, 2 sc tog, 53 sc, 2 sc tog, 27 sc (109)

Round 26 :

26) 14 sc, 2 sc tog, 77 sc, 2 sc tog, 14 sc (107)

Round 27 :

27) 2 sc tog, 105 sc (106)

Round 28 :

28) 26 sc, 2 sc tog, 50 sc, 2 sc tog, 26 sc (104)

Round 29 :

29) 13 sc, 2 sc tog, 74 sc, 2 sc tog, 13 sc (102)

Info :

At this step you have to reinforce the jaw to make the fish keep shape and fix the teeth. Cut a piece of wire as long as the outer contour of the jaw + 1 more cm at each end. With pliers, make small loops at the ends of the wire. Try the frame on to the body and fix it with pins. Make two sets of teeth as below and insert wire inside teeth optionally to make them stronger.

— Teeth :

Make teeth with 1.0 mm or 1.25 mm crochet hook and white or gray yarn following the instructions. You can make as many teeth as you want and place them as you like.

Teeth A :

A - 2 teeth: 1) Make a MR, 6 sc into the ring. 2-3) sc in each st around (6) 4) (sc, 2 sc in next st) * 3 (9) 5-10) sc in each st around (9). Fasten off, weave in the end.

Teeth B :

B - 2 teeth: 1) Make a MR, 6 sc into the ring. 2-3) sc in each st around (6) 4) (sc, 2 sc in next st) * 3 (9) 5-8) sc in each st around (9). Fasten off, weave in the end.

Teeth C :

C - 2 teeth: 1) Make a MR, 6 sc into the ring. 2-3) sc in each st around (6) 4) (sc, 2 sc in next st) * 3 (9) 5-6) sc in each st around (9). Fasten off, weave in the end.

Teeth D :

D - 8/10 teeth: 2-4) sc in each st around (6). Fasten off, weave in the end.

Assembly Instructions

  • Join the muzzle and the lower jaw by aligning markers: 28 sc around the muzzle, insert hook into the 29th st and join inner lower jaw and muzzle, make 72 sc inserting through both layers, then 29 sc around muzzle (129).
  • Reinforce the tail and fins by inserting copper wire into finger-rays and wrapping ends with fabric plaster; secure frame ends between specific rounds (for tail between Rnds 8 and 9).
  • Attach fins and tail to the body by placing and pinning them to match the sequence of rounds indicated, then sew using a whipstitch with matching yarn and weave in ends.
  • Sew teeth into two sets and attach them to the jaw frame; consider inserting wire into teeth for strength and wrap wire ends to avoid injury.

Important Notes

  • 💡Use stitch markers to keep track of your rounds and to indicate the center of the back; change marker position using shift sts when instructed.
  • 💡Stuff finger-rays lightly — overstuffing will distort the shape; do not stuff the fin itself except for the rays.
  • 💡Reinforce wire ends with fabric plaster or insulation tape to prevent the wire from poking through the crochet fabric.

This playful Anglerfish SAM pattern combines tiny tight stitches with structural wirework to create a unique, characterful toy you can display at home. 🎣 Follow the step-by-step instructions to crochet the muzzle, jaw, fins, tail and tiny teeth, then reinforce with wire for a poseable statement piece. 🧶 Enjoy making a functional night-lamp-style accent or a whimsical companion — Sam will brighten any shelf or bedside table! ✨

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The toy is approximately 18 x 35 cm, though final size will vary depending on yarn and hook tension.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can use different yarn weights but the final size and look will change; if you go thicker, increase hook size and adjust wire lengths.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate and assumes familiarity with single crochet, increases, decreases, working in the round, and joining pieces.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crafters will spend 12-15 hours across several sessions, depending on experience and how much reinforcement wiring and embellishment you add.

Is wiring necessary for the fins and tail?

Wiring is recommended to keep large fins and tail poseable and stable; the pattern explains how to insert and wrap wire safely.

Can I make the eyes and teeth from polymer clay instead of yarn?

Yes, the pattern notes you may use polymer clay for eyes and teeth, or make them from cotton embroidery floss or yarn as described.